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Thread: How do you clean up your box joints ??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    How do you clean up your box joints ??

    I do a lot of box joints, they are strong and I like the look.

    I always cut them just a little longer then needed and then clean them up to get them flat and even with the box. The problem is how to do it.

    I have tried a chisel, that really doesn't work that well for me, even with a really sharp chisel.
    I have used a flush trim router bit and that generally comes out with a blow out on one of the pins.
    I have used a block of wood with sandpaper on it and that does work but it take a lot of work with the end grain.

    So now I am using my little PC (371) belt sander and that works well but I really have to watch it so I don't mark the surface of the box.

    So what have you found to be the best way?

  2. #2
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    Yep, belt sander. It may offend the purists, but it works well on lots of little bits of end grain and glue squeeze-out.

  3. #3
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    Oakley oscillating edge sander. I was in a furniture factory one time and I heard somebody call them drawer sanders. Now I know why.
    Larry

  4. #4
    Low angle block plane is better than sanding if you want a crisp look.

    Please don't EVER use a belt sander on a ww'ing project they are nothing but project destroyers.
    Last edited by Robert Engel; 05-26-2015 at 11:17 AM.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Copas View Post
    Oakley oscillating edge sander. I was in a furniture factory one time and I heard somebody call them drawer sanders. Now I know why.
    We called the waterfall sanders drawer sander and i have to live with my 10" wide Engleberg but i always wanted to to find 15" wadkin GKA




    other than a side sanders the stroke sanders can be set up to sand drawers to.



    jack
    English machines

  6. #6
    Bill, do you own a good, low angle block plane? It's IMHO, the easiest way; the low angle blade enjoys tweaking end grain. There is a minor learning curve to avoid blowing things out, but it leaves a perfect surface.

  7. #7
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    I use a ROS. It takes just a couple minutes to take the pin ends down flush. I never thought about using anything else.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  8. #8
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    I'm with Bruce, I use my ROS. The key is to make the fingers only 1/64 or so proud. A few seconds with the ROS and the side is flush.

    John

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Bill, do you own a good, low angle block plane? It's IMHO, the easiest way; the low angle blade enjoys tweaking end grain. There is a minor learning curve to avoid blowing things out, but it leaves a perfect surface.
    This. The learning curve is not that great - you just need to back up the trailing side so it doesn't blow anything out. Keep it really sharp.
    Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us.
    -Bill Watterson

    Reminds me of my safari in Africa. Somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water.
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  10. #10
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    Vega OES is what I use
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  11. #11
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    Oscillating edge sander. I've never heard the term "drawer sander", but it makes sense.

    Belt sander would work fine, if I didn't have the edge sander - just go easy.
    I love mankind. It's people I can't stand.

  12. #12
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    So Cal
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    Hi Bill, have you Tryd Useing a file.I add tape to the end to keep from scratching the field.Thats what I do when I am too lazy to shapen my block plane.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    Low angle block plane is better than sanding if you want a crisp look. .
    This. A small LA block, like the superb Lie Nielsen, is one of the "must have" hand planes, even for guys that mostly use power tools.

    They excel at trimming end grain. Plus, no noise, no dust, and a little mild exercise. You can even do it outside in the sunshine on a nice day: This particular task doesn't require a lot of "push," so you can get away with a smaller, portable bench. Even better is to use a shooting board, but you don't NEED one. well, actually, everybody needs a shooting board, they just don't know it.

    Sanding should be a last resort, IMO. I'd rather be forced to listen to rap music for 16 hrs a day, than have to work in a shop filled with sanding dust.
    Last edited by Allan Speers; 05-26-2015 at 2:27 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Copas View Post
    Oakley oscillating edge sander. I was in a furniture factory one time and I heard somebody call them drawer sanders. Now I know why.
    Oakley actually made a dedicated drawer sander called the Model H drawer sander and the belt ran at 90° to the H-6.

    When I trim the ends, depending on number of drawers, type of wood, amount of projection ... I use a belt sander, oscillating sander or hand plane.
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    Last edited by Bill Adamsen; 05-26-2015 at 4:26 PM.

  15. #15
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    Those that I've made I did with a belt sander, or plane. If I did them frequently, I'd probably get an oscillating edge sander, or that cool machine Jack posted.
    I've done them with a plane, but the belt sander is pretty darn quick.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

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