Drywall screws

[David Ragan]

Anybody routinely use drywall screws for WW?

I understand that they are case-hardened to stand up to drilling into metal studs in bldgs., and, thus, also have a sharp point, and deep threads, comparatively speaking. Maybe self tapping?

Are they a better choice than the average square drive woodscrew?

[Ryan Mooney]

They also tend to be rather brittle and thus snap off rather to frequently for my taste, so generally avoid them.

[Chris Padilla]

They're for drywall.

[Brett Luna]

I think they're fine for jigs and other temporary use but for permanent work, I'd stick with a quality woodworking screw, especially if it's an outdoor project. In my experience, drywall screws are more prone to head snapping.

[Kent A Bathurst]

They have no shear strength, to speak of.

Jigs, etc. are fine as per Brett. YOu don't want them where there will be any weight/stress.

Chris nailed it [screwed it?]. Use them for drywall

[Peter Quinn]

I use drywall screws for drywall. They are cost effective in that capacity. For wood I use assembly screws, mine are black and look just like sheet rock screws, but have self drilling auger point tips, nibs to countersink behind the heads, and are annealed so they are not brittle, almost never break under normal conditions. I use deerwood ultimates and hafele zip -R's presently. There are lots of options now for assembly screws, most vendors have some variation on these, even my local true value sells them!

[scott vroom]

They're for drywall.

Yeah, just like duct tape is for ducts

[Roy Harding]

I think they're fine for jigs and other temporary use but for permanent work, I'd stick with a quality woodworking screw, especially if it's an outdoor project. In my experience, drywall screws are more prone to head snapping.

I agree, completely.

[Art Mann]

Yeah, just like duct tape is for ducts

Excellent comparison!

[Kent A Bathurst]

Excellent comparison!

This is me, sitting here thinking duck tape was for ducks. I'll be doggoned. There are some waterfowl I need to apologize to, apparently.


EDIT: Before the Semantics Police come for me...There are some waterfowl to whom I apparently need to apologize.

When I go fishing on the Lower Potomac, when I want to catch the big fish, the bait I troll with is a custom-made dangling participle.

[Brett Luna]

This is me, sitting here thinking duck tape was for ducks.

Only if the ducks (or children) are particularly unruly.

[Lee Schierer]

The bugle head on dry wall screws will likely cause your wood to split more so that a regular countersunk wood screw will. Not to mention that they are brittle and break.

[Art Mann]

I would never use drywall screws for a serious woodworking project. I really don't like to use any metal fasteners at all if I can help it. I have built dozens, maybe hundreds, of temporary and some permanent jigs and other assemblies using them. At any given time, I may have 5 or more boxes of different lengths in stock. Years ago, I had some that the head would twist off with an impact driver but I haven't experienced that lately. If I drive them too hard in soft wood, they just bury themselves out of sight. Also, I haven't found them any more difficult to countersink that traditional wood screws. If you don't use a countersink bit, it is far easier to countersink them with just a driver than normal wood screws. If I don't care about appearances, I will often do just that. I'm sorry to disagree so much but I think they are very useful in a lot of situations if used within their limitations. Here is one example. Suppose you want to laminate two 3 X 5 pieces of plywood or MDF together to make a thicker and stronger sheet - say for a work table. It is ridiculously easy to glue and then screw the two pieces together in a grid pattern on a flat surface without predrilling any holes at all. After the glue dries, just remove all the screws and fill the holes (if necessary). There is no other easy way to create enough clamping pressure between two large area pieces of sheet goods. Drywall screws will supply more pressure and more evenly distributed pressure than you could ever get using a bunch of sacks of sand or something like that.

[glenn bradley]

I have some around and use them for drywall or for junk plywood or particle board woodworking needs. IMHO they are too brittle for any reliability in hardwood joinery. I can snap a drywall screw tightening by hand. I have torqued McFeely's square drive screws with a ratchet handle. they do work as clamps ion the middle of a panel as Art describes but, I have had some snap and leave metal in the piece and so have even stopped using them for that.

[Art Mann]

Drywall screws must have improved over time or maybe the brand matters. I used to twist the heads off just every once in a while But that hasn't happened to me in a few years. I laminated a router table top as I described above not too long ago and I didn't experience the problem.