Home project woes - Need help...

[Raymond Fries]

It would be awesome if the repair could leave the windows in place. I had another scary thought today. What about the fiberglass insulation in the walls below the windows. It has been getting wet for a long time now. Think it is OK? Below the 3/8" fir paneling there is a layer of 1/4" plywood to build out the wall so the trim would be flush with the windows. This plywood is what you see all of the stain on. I hate to tear out everything all around the room just to check for mold.

I have found different opinions on wet fiberglass insulation and not sure where to go with this.

Any ideas anyone?

[Todd Burch]

IMO, if the builder mans up and takes responsibility for this, who cares if he has to open the wall and replace wet/molding insulation?

[Neil Gaskin]

If you had wet insulation I would want it replaced, which brings up an interesting set of circumstances. If it was only a little damp I wouldn't worry to much, but the wet fiberglass can hold moisture which can cause mold. Once it dries and stays dry it wouldn't be a problem. So the answer is, it depends on how wet it is/was.

[Raymond Fries]

I decided to tearout the plywood over one cavity next to the PTAC opening and examine the insulation and go from there.

A contractor was here on Friday to give me an estimate. He said they would have to do a T&M job which is kind of scary. He did confirm that the water is leaking in around the window frames. After the second contractor comes next week, I plan on taking my case to the guy that built the room and go from there.

Update - I removed the plywood to expose the cavity and the insulation appears ok. The staples securing the plywood to the plate are rusty. When I first turned the bottom of the insulation over, I saw a bunch of black dots and I thought oh great here it comes...

.. But after pulling it up, there was the letter "B" printed in the same black dots. I have never seen printing on the fiberglass face. No way could this be mold as it is far to precise. I am assuming the rest of the room will be the same.

I still might tell the contractor that I want it pulled just to be safe. My goal is to identify the minimum that needs to be done as it is obvious that shortcuts have been taken.

[Neil Gaskin]

I would start with the original contractor if hes willng to warrant the job, or at least cut you a break. Im not suggesting it shuoldnt be a warranty, just that I dont recall all the particulars at this time. From the pictures you took it doesnt really look like short cuts were taken so much as something failed. Ideally flashing would have been used above the windows but that may not be the acutal problem. the tape he used may have failed or the caulking.

I wouldnt worry to much about the staples, if the plywood is stable and solid you might want to use rink shank nails. We dont use staples around my area. Im not a fan of staples but some argue they hold better.

[Raymond Fries]

I felt there was a shortcut because the Anderson installation instructions specify that a drip cap be installed as well as exterior backing cord and caulk. Maybe these steps are optional for the contractor.

Hopefully the contractor will just fix whatever is wrong.

[Neil Gaskin]

The lack of caulk was definately a miss, that should have been done if the contractor was responsible for the painting. But even when we have homeowners paint their own projects we will do the caulking to try to avoid these type of issues. If the installation instructions were not followed you would have a claim against the contractor but the manufacturer warranty will be void.

Short cuts never work out in the long run.

[Raymond Fries]

I have been told by at least one other contrctor that I should not need caulk if everything else is installed properly. If this is true, then caulking now is in fact band aid that will fail sometime. The contractor that came to give me an estimlate thought the windows were not taped correctly or the tape had failed.

Another contrctor is coming tomorrow to look at it.

[Raymond Fries]

Looking at the room today I noticed water stain above the baseboard on the wall where the room ties into the house. Would someone look at these construction photographs and tell me if looks like the wall is sealed properly.

AdditionWall4.jpgAdditionWall2.jpgAdditionWall1.jpgAdditionWall3.jpg

The day after the picture with the windows installed, the siding went on. Looking closely, the outside looks the same as before the windows were installed. Looking at the interior picture, is that some sort of sealing tape sticking out in the corner. I am hoping I do not have a wall leak or if the water from the windows is traveling around the corner. Odd that the stain on the wall with the faucet is bigger than the stain on the wall with the windows.

[Todd Burch]

I hope you have a water barrier behind that blue board insulation.

[Raymond Fries]

Not sure Todd but I would asuume so. The house was built in 1987 and we moved here in 1992 and have never had a moisture problem with the house.

[Raymond Fries]

Does anyone have a copy of the International Residential Code (R613.1)? It costs over $100 to buy a copy.

I found an article on finehomebuilding.com saying that this rule says that all windows must be installed according to manufacturer's installation instructions. Mine are not installed by those instructions.

Thanks if you can help with this.

[Todd Burch]

I have a copy of the IRC 2000. That good enough?

[Raymond Fries]

Thanks Todd but I doubt it. My librarian wife found copies at our library. I went today and got a copy of the 2003 code. The section 613.1 referred to on www.finehomebuilding.com article said that waterproofing and flashing was not a part of the scope of that section. What I was looking for was not there. Sigh...
The codes are published every three years. Unless something was added in 2006 or 2009 that supports the statement in the article, it will not help my case.

It is OK as I still have the physical evidence that the room leaks through the windows. I was just hoping to see a code that said the windows must be installed according to manufacturers installation instructions as pointed out in the online article.

I got my Delmhorst moisture meter yesterday and got some baseline readings on two walls last light. Since it rained for a few days, I am pretty sure that some of the 20 percent readings along the walls at floor level are a result of leaking. Will wait a couple of days and see if they drop. Then, I plan on using the hose and document where the readings rise.

Getting a quote from a contractor the first of the week on what it will cost to pull and re-install the windows. Maybe by the end of next week I will have everything I need to call the builder and see how he wants to handle the fix. Hope he is willing to fix it and not just caulk it. At least it "will" get fixed.

[Raymond Fries]

Well look at what we have here:

I found this online from the 2009 International Residential Code here: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_6_sec012.htm

Looks like the builder needed to follow the manufacturer's installation instructions unless I am missing something here.

So even though I signed a contract where the builder said his work would be performed in a "workman like manner" the work should still be performed in accordance with the building code. Correct?

SECTION R612 EXTERIOR WINDOWS AND DOORS

R612.1 General. This section prescribes performance and construction requirements for exterior windows and doors installed in walls. Windows and doors shall be installed and flashed in accordance with the fenestration manufacturer's written installation instructions. Window and door openings shall be flashed in accordance with Section R703.8. Written installation instructions shall be provided by the fenestration manufacturer for each window or door.

R703.8 Flashing. Approved corrosion-resistant flashing shall be applied shingle-fashion in a manner to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the building structural framing components. Self-adhered membranes used as flashing shall comply with AAMA 711. The flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish. Approved corrosion-resistant flashings shall be installed at all of the following locations:

1. Exterior window and door openings. Flashing at exterior window and door openings shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish or to the water-resistive barrier for subsequent drainage. 2. At the intersection of chimneys or other masonry construction with frame or stucco walls, with projecting lips on both sides under stucco copings. 3. Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal copings and sills. 4. Continuously above all projecting wood trim. 5. Where exterior porches, decks or stairs attach to a wall or floor assembly of wood-frame construction. 6. At wall and roof intersections. 7. At built-in gutters.