12x30 Workshop About To Become A Reality

[Kent Adams]

I have a workshop nearly exactly your size and I live in Zone 7b/8a, so we have high heat and high humidity in the summer months. My walls are OSB with reflectix on walls and ceiling, vinyl on the outside with 6 foot french doors on the end and 36 inch single door on the long side. I use a window unit to keep it cool and it keeps it very cool. I monitor the indoor humidity with a weather station and it rarely gets above 60% humidity in the most humid conditions. My OSB has the reflective insulation and I put a similar foam type of reflective over the plywood floor and then 3/4 inch maple on top of that sealed with bona sport poly seal. All the joists were carefully insulated with r-13, both walls and ceiling with 1/2 plywood on top of that. I sealed every single corner, window and even joist with silicone. My shed is nearly airtight. A 2 ton A/C would be ridiculous for this space. I leave my AC on all summer and the bills are not that much. Because I leave it on all the time, I control the humidity ( a killer for anything with cast iron or hand tools). You need to rethink not leaving it on unless you're in the shop. A 2 ton A/C will cycle on and off so much you'll have extended periods of time where the humidity will rise in your shop before the motor kicks back on. Unless its variable speed, that motor will get killed in short order. I would fear you'll have all sorts of condensation build up inside your building unless you seal it properly and size the A/C properly. You don't need more than the most powerful 115v window unit to cool it. I lowered my ceiling to 8 feet as well and put r-38 on top of it. That vent you're talking about, which I have one in my greenhouse, will kill your ability to control humidity in that space. I know the guy is a friend, but he doesn't know what he's talking about in my opinion.

100 amp service panel should be fine along with 10/2 wiring. I have the same light fixture set up as well, you might want to make sure you space them wide enough to fit in an air filtration system on the ceiling.

[Kent Adams]

I would be careful putting that dust collector outside as you'll be surprised at how much it is going to suck out from your conditioned space. If your building is not sealed nearly air tight, you'll be reintroducing more humidity and heat back into the building. I'm trying to figure this out for myself as well as the dc is a huge cost of space in workshops our size. At the minimum, you'll need a damper to control the airflow from the outside room back into your workshop. As the A/C is running, it will suck air from the outside back into your shop, causing your A/C to work harder to maintain conditions. In addition, your DC will be hot and humid outside and when you turn it on, you'll introduce cold air into the machine which could cause it to develop condensation and rust. I haven't figured this out yet myself. I'm thinking of just opening the wall up on one side and extending floor space out to accommodate my dc. Not an ideal situation keeping it in the shop or extending it outside the shop.

If I had to do it all again, I would have paid the extra money for 16 foot width.

[Von Bickley]

From the internet.....

You need a 3-3-3-5 copper SER cable to carry 100 amps (that's three #3 gauge for the two hot wires and the neutral and a #5 gauge for the ground). If you want to use aluminum, you need at least #2 gauge or perhaps #1.Jun 25, 2013


Or look here.....

http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts

[Tom Deutsch]

I understand where you're coming from on the narrow-ish shop. I just moved into a shop in my barn that is just over 11 feet by 24 feet. The great thing that both of us have, though, is an open end. That will make a big difference for any "cramping" issues. That, and being able to roll stuff around easily is the golden ticket.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Yes, I placed the table saw so that when the 9 ft roll-up door is open I can use the outside as additional shop space.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Von, here is what I found.
Will this work for a100 amp, 80 ft run, buried in 1 1/2 in PVC Conduit?

http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/1-3-...ding-Wire.html

[Von Bickley]

Von, here is what I found.
Will this work for a100 amp, 80 ft run, buried in 1 1/2 in PVC Conduit?

http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/1-3-...ding-Wire.html

According to the description, that should take care of you. They also make a special lubricant to put on aluminum wire connections. Get a small tube of this and make sure you have tight connections.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Thanks for the help

[Steve Kinnaird]

Christmas can't get here soon enough
OK, the delivery of my 12 x 30 shed can't get here soon enough, but it's like waiting for that very special gift at Christmas time.
I keep finding more and more things to add to the plan and better ways to do a lot of the things that I had planed.
I have a friend that owns an HVAC company. He has volunteered to come over and help me with the Dust Collection piping. He said that we can make the "Wye" parts rather than spend big bucks to buy them.
I am also looking into a retractable roll-up screen to have in place when the roll-up door is open. Just a few mosquitoes here in Florida.
I have decided to bite the bullet and buy the 3-3-3-5 Copper Wire and not mess with the Aluminum Wire.

Almost have the location for the shed ready. Need to move the carport and get rid of some old motorcycle parts and I will be ready. Here is a pic of where it will go.
20150609_180238.jpg

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[Kent Adams]

Steve, are you still going with that 2 ton HVAC?

[Mike Heidrick]

What kind of site prep are you doing after you clean up?

[Steve Kinnaird]

Yes, It will not be on all the time. And when it is on, it will pull moisture out of the air.
I will consider leaving it on or using a dehumidifier if I end up with of a moisture build up.

[David Nelson1]

Hey Steve,

Your plan looks good for a narrow shop. Mine is just 2 foot wider than yours and I do have a bit more packed in. A couple of suggestions from my experience:

1)I would and did build my wood rack so it encroached the roll up door for more storage. I usually don't work with sheet goods but when I do I break it down with a track saw on the truck or saw horses. Your table saw can be repositioned if needed. Long cross cuts can be done on the RAS. I do work outside or at least move things out the shop to make extra room and wished I had some sort of a large awning either built into the build and permanently fixed or even one of those Sundowner deals that can be extended when needed.

2)My shop has no windows expect for the opening for the window HVAC unit so plan on a trial and error method for good shop lighting to simulate day light. I have yet to hit the right combo, but hand held portable lighting has been beneficial for highlighting finishing details that would have and did go unnoticed until the piece hit outside light.

3)I'm still pushing around a portable collector and it takes up quite a bit of shop space. It's a good idea to have a stationary location and it looks as if you wont need more than two drops for the larger machines planer, jointer, and table saw. Router table and the RAS can be shop vacs? I would move the area that houses your compressor and D/C to the middle of the building for equal and shorter runs.

4) You mentioned your a retired electrician so moving wiring if your shop needs changes won't be a bid deal unless you bury the wiring in the walls. I studded, insulated and dry walled then added the wiring. I have a lot of temp wiring going on but plan on finishing mine this winter. I'm glad I went that route since things have moved at least three times.

Good luck with the shop! Looking forward to seeing some progress pics. I added a few pics for your entertainment.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Hi David,

Thanks for the suggestions. Nice pics, I think you need more wood . I like the high walls. I am limited to 8' due to getting a pre-built shed.


1) The lumber storage area will more than likely take more room than I have drawn into the layout as things come together. I will build a deck outside of the roll-up door to work outside. I like the Sundowner option.

2) Yes, lighting is a big concern. I will have 12 - ft dual element LED shop lights. I elected not to add any windows for 2 reasons, first security and second flying wood chunks LOL

3) I like the idea of moving the out building more to the center for shorter runs. That makes sense, but I have a very large stump from a palm tree that is in the way . I could take the chainsaw to it and get it to ground level though. I will have 6 drops for dust collection. 1 - Table saw, 2 - RAS, 3 - Router Table, 4 - Lathe, 5 - Floor Sweep and 6 - a drop with a long flex hose dropped here the roll-up door.

4) My wording in a post was directed at a retired electrician. I am proficient and running all my wiring, but am not a retired electrician. My plan is to drill all the holes for the wiring, mount the outlet and switch boxes, insulate, then run all the wire and cover with 7/16" OSB. All of the outlets will 20 amp and be wired with 12-3, the lights will be 15 amp with 14-3 and the dust collector and table saw will be 20 amp with 10-3.

[David Nelson1]

Footers and cider block foundation will be a big plus for head room when you need to flip a long board around, but that means a large roll up door. How are going to keep moister out of the flooring?