Planing stop location

[Phil Stone]

This may be a picayune detail to worry about on an almost-completed bench, but I thought I'd poll the group about the ideal location for a planing stop. I notice that Chris Schwartz puts his about six inches from the front edge of the bench, and I don't remember reading any reason for doing that. I've noticed other stops pretty close to the front edge of the bench. Unless one anticipates face jointing wide stock most of the time, it seems like close to the front edge would be more ergonomic. What do you think?

Also, I'm looking at Ian Kirby's planing stop from Scott Landis' Workbench Book, and it seems pretty clever to me (it slides up and down through the top, mounted on a bolt on one of the legs). Has anybody used that design?

[Mark Herdman]

I think this is down to personal choice, based on what work you do.
A stop close to the edge, could be supplemented with one further away, if needed later.

Mark

[Phil Stone]

I think this is down to personal choice, based on what work you do.
A stop close to the edge, could be supplemented with one further away, if needed later.

Mark

Yeah, that makes sense. I guess I'm wondering if there are any drawbacks to putting a stop close to the front edge (assuming the bench design allows it/doesn't make it too difficult).

[Jim Matthews]

Widest board you typically use?

When making panels, that's 10 inches for me.
I like to have a stable placement, with ciearance. That puts the stop about 12 inches in from the front edge.

[Jim Ritter]

Here is what I did on my bench. Threaded inserts installed in the stretcher.



its not too close to the edge, but I'm not disappointed with the location. The twin stops are nice with wider boards.
Jim

[Phil Stone]

Here is what I did on my bench. Threaded inserts installed in the stretcher.



its not too close to the edge, but I'm not disappointed with the location. The twin stops are nice with wider boards.
Jim

Excellent. This is just what I was hoping to see. That's similar to what Ian Kirby used, only his screwed to the leg instead of the stretcher. You seem to have a nice flexible set up there.

[Warren Mickley]

I have used a two inch wide stop that is 3 1/4 from the edge since 1979. When planing a wide board, I move the board so that I am planing roughly in line with the stop. In other words when planing the near side of the board I move the board away so the near side lines up with the stop. When planing the far side of the board, I move it toward me so the far side lines up with the stop. (I move it with the left hand in between strokes without interrupting rhythm, kind of unconsciously).

If the stop is too close to the edge of the bench, a wide board will stick out too far with nothing to support it when planing the far side. If you have a vise near the stop the vise jaw is part of the equation, helping to support the board.
diderotmenuisier bench.jpgroubo planing.jpeg

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Phil

I used a stop such as advocated by Kirby on my previous bench. I have one on my mini bench (for demonstrations). On my current bench I use a dog as a stop and supplement it, if needed, with a second dog and the leg vise, thus ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Phil Stone]

Nice, Derek. However, since you have an entire row of dogholes up front (and probably a tail vise hiding back there), you have a multitude of holding options, anyway. I may drill a few extra dog holes in the middle like you have.

I appreciate the feedback, everybody. I think I've decided on a simple friction-fit stop like CS advocates, but located just on the inside of my front leg (Roubo design, leg is flush to front). That way, if it ever loosens up, I can screw it to the leg a la Kirby. That puts it five inches from the front, which should be a good balance for various board widths.

[Jim Matthews]

Note the second row of holes, centered in our man Cohen's bench.

The lateral stop isn't enough to keep most workpieces from wandering,
in my opinion. I use a central batten to keep the board from
moving too far away from me as I plane.

Mine is similar to the one pictured in the Nicholson bench, below.
This can be accomplished with a planing stop as sold by Lee Valley.

The idea is to trap the upper left corner of the board (if you're right handed)
but otherwise let the board float freely.

[Phil Stone]

Good point, Jim. I'll have a few dog holes towards the back of my bench, and I plan to pin a batten under a holdfast to secure the piece laterally when needed.