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Thread: Bed Build

  1. #1
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    Bed Build

    It's rare that I run two major projects side by side, but this one is something I need in much more of a hurry. Building an extra long twin which will eventually be combinable with a duplicate version to make a king bed. It replaces a queen bed which my wife is not fond of that I built some years ago. That bed, while made with nice material will be later repurposed into something we both like. The construction method was very simplistic and will be able to be broken down easily.

    the urgency is that it is for my son's room which will need to be able to accommodate a crib (hence the need to downsize the main bed) and a guest bed.

    and we proceed;



    these will become pins will will work through the central crossmember to offer additional support to the outside legs. One of my goals in this build is to completely eliminate a center leg. I hate them as they catch on everything,

    Since this build is somewhat time sensitive I've had the lumber roughed to my specs (if jointed flat on four sides is considered rough )



    Making a reference corner on the pins for dimensioning;



    sawing the long receivers of these pins;



    removing the waste



    Scribing the base line helps prefect tear out from making ugly surfaces;



    Sawing the stub tenons which will be recieved in the central crossmember





    after paring we have a joint that fits nicely, awaiting the mortises and locking pins. This joint should ensure very strong outside legs.

    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 06-03-2015 at 12:26 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #2
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    Brian, I always enjoy your posts, admire your craftsmanship, am impressed with your tool selections, and marvel about your neatness ( the carpeting).

    best regards, patrick

  3. #3
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    Hey Brian, If you want a king sized bed eventually then I would not recommend going the way of combing two single mattresses side by side. That would be great for the box spring but not the mattress.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys!

    Indeed, I plan to use a single mattress by that point, I'm assuming whatever twin mattress we end up with will have lived a full life by then, lol. No need for a box spring since this frame will have a slatted top.

    the combined height of mattress and frame will be about 20"~ which will seem low for some, but is typical for combinations which do not include a box spring.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  5. #5
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    Mother in-law coming to stay for a while?

  6. #6
    Brian,
    Whats the diameter of the drill bit?
    Biggest i have found on internet is 2.5 cm. Yours look like it has bigger diameter.

  7. #7
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    I believe it is 7/8", I have them up to 1" so basically about the same as what you have. In scenarios where I need more I just drill two holes. (for clearing waste).
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #8
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    Hi Mark,

    On that auction site are a lot of auger bits. Quite a few sets go up to size 20 and even individual bits of size 20, which is an inch and a quarter, are listed. There are a few size inch and a half, and I saw one that is 2 inches.

    Stew

  9. #9
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    Love seeing your work. Brian. Thank you for posting.
    FYI, not sure I understand Pat's comment, but putting two twin XL mattresses side by side to create a king is done a lot (primarily to accommodate different comfort levels or accommodate independent use of ergo/motion bases). Also, if you plan to go the memory foam route, they require a solid flat surface...slats may void the warranty.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Phil, Cheers!

    Thanks for the insights as well, It would actually make life significantly easier to not use slats, but that is the preferred style for the mattresses I like.

    Cleared this with an Auger first, then followed with a bow saw, now cleaning up the sides with a chisel;



    Test fit looks pretty nice;



    Now onto the mortises for the stub tenons;



    I dinged a corner as you can see, luckily finish planing will remove most of that.

    Test fitting the stub tenons alone to ensure they stand straight;



    straight and tight, what appears to be a gap is actually my pencil line;



    Test fit with tenon;



    Finished mortising the opposing side and now we're all set, shy the wedging pins.

    I'll have one more set of these to do for this rail and you may have caught my markings. I plan to run the slats through a series of lap joints with rabbets.

    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #11
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    Sorry, no work in progress photos, getting this right was all consuming. On the second one I should be more able to take photos during the process.

    I used a dovetail plane in a vise to cut the shachi pins into a parallelogram shape.

    One note, a very important one, it's been pointed out to me (thanks Chris if you are reading this) that the ideal proportions of this joinery, much like a M&T, are 1/3 thickness for the pin and 1/3 for each side of the fork. So, I've made that notation and will do so on the next project in which I use this type of joinery. I like how well it functions and how it allows me to assemble/disassemble.

    The way this bed will be completed is that I will end up building a center rail which will have grooves for the slats and will be assembled with the end rails attached. The side rails complete each with legs and 1/2 cross members will come together in with that unit all while landing on the wedged tenons at the four outside corners. This type of joinery allows for easy test-fitting of the sub assemblies, but since these cross members will join into the legs with tapered dovetails, they will have to be able to be split in the center.

    There are certainly other methods of half-lapping while joining together in the middle of a center beam, but I like this one.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #12
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    Moving along nicely on the center rail, completed the second set of rod tenons and moved into the first of two tusk tenons.

    In order to avoid redundancy I highlighted a few area that I glossed over previously;






















    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  13. #13
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    Round two of tusk tenons was today;









    Test fitting



    Cut for the pin



    Makeshift fence for cutting the pin


  14. #14
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    Hello Brian,

    Nice (mini) jointer! Also, what are the dimensions of your bench top--deeper than the typical ~24" or trick of the camera (bottom photo post #12)?

    Thanks and keep 'em coming.
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  15. #15
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    Thanks Christopher!

    I believe my benchtop, less the vise, is 30" wide.

    Cheers!
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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