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Thread: Furniture - molding - staining -attaching -

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    MA. & CA.
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    247

    Furniture - molding - staining -attaching -

    Building a room of Curly Maple furniture, thanks for the replies about the drawer

    and chest staining answers....now one more question; Should I dye the
    chest & molding BEFORE applying the molding, then attach the (dyed) molding and apply the varnish? Or attach the molding then dye/varnish the entire piece?

    I guess I could glue and nail the molding on, then use some wood putty to fill-in some of the spaces...then dye/varnish the piece; BUT I am worried that
    with the normal movement of the Curly Maple sides and the Curly Maple molding, that gaps will happen and then the "cracks" will be un-dyed Curly Maple.
    Thoughts? What shall an old man do?

    Thanks,
    Phil

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
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    6,931
    Phil. I would, if practical, dye and varnish the molding piece and chest seperately and then attach the molding to the chest. This will make for a real nice sharp transition between the pieces.

  3. #3
    Ditto and use a pin nailer and avoid the filing of nail holes.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    South Windsor, CT
    Posts
    3,304
    Depending on the size of the mouldings you're attaching, sliding dovetails are a nice way to attach your mouldings. This technique allows you to dye the mouldings separately, attach them and clearcoat the entire piece. The sliding dovetails hide the attachments - no nail holes to fill.

    You mill the female dovetail in your moulding and make male cleats that you attach to the furniture.

    Just an idea.

    Rob

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