Cherry Burl Vase

[David Delo]

Got this cherry branch burl last week and decided to put it between centers and round it off just to see what it looked like underneath. Didn't know what would be left for a box or dish/bowl etc etc. Turned out a little more solid than I though it was going to be so after getting it cleaned up, kind of looked like the beginnings of a vase anyways. Not the prettiest bottom curve-wise but couldn't bring myself to making chips out of the nice figure that was still left in that area, so here's how it turned out. Drilled starter hole and then hollowed out. 13" high x 2.75"W-top, 4.5"W-middle, 3.75"W-bottom. 1/4" to 3/8" wall thickness. After it dries I think I'll trying my hand at piercing out the bug holes. One coat of Watco so far.

cbb 2.jpg cbb 3.jpg cbb 7.jpg cbb b.jpg cbb c.jpg

[David Delo]

cbb d.jpg cbb e.jpg cbb f.jpg cbb g.jpg

[Randy Red Bemont]

Sweet!

Red

[Eric Gourieux]

David, that's a nice piece of wood. I understand your reluctance to turn away such nice figure, but you may regret that later. I have done that in the past and have ended up with a finished piece that is not pleasing to the eye. You have a nice rough shape so far, but I would recommend turning the bottom under some more, so it follows the curve more smoothly.

[Lloyd Keniston]

I agree with Eric. So far so good. Just my two cents worth...

[David Delo]

David, that's a nice piece of wood. I understand your reluctance to turn away such nice figure, but you may regret that later. I have done that in the past and have ended up with a finished piece that is not pleasing to the eye. You have a nice rough shape so far, but I would recommend turning the bottom under some more, so it follows the curve more smoothly.

Your right. I was looking at it this afternoon and thinking the same thing.......why didn't I just round the bottom curve off more. Oh well. I've got enough meat down there to do it but I'll wait a little while for it to dry. Thanks

[Pat Scott]

Is it wrong for me to like picture #4 the best of them all? Your turning tools are all nicely organized in their own stand, you have Robo Rests on your grinder with two CBN wheels, a Carter steady rest and Carter Strongbore boring bar. I'm jealous.

[David Delo]

Used step jaws, steady rest and cone live center to get the piece to run true enough to re-turn. Couldn't get the best curve on the bottom because of wall thickness and where I had to place the wheels of the steady rest but I think it looks a little more presentable.

cbb h.jpg cbb i.jpg cbb j.jpg

[David Delo]

Is it wrong for me to like picture #4 the best of them all? Your turning tools are all nicely organized in their own stand, you have Robo Rests on your grinder with two CBN wheels, a Carter steady rest and Carter Strongbore boring bar. I'm jealous.

Thanks Pat. I use the Robo rest for 40/40 grinds and for hollowing bits & scrapers. Some people say the Carter stuff is too pricey but everyone else's higher quality stuff is in the same price range. They have email specials with 20% off so you can get a decent deal from time to time. Wheels are from Ken at WooodTurningWonders, he's the lowest cost supplier that I know of right now.

[Eric Gourieux]

Used step jaws, steady rest and cone live center to get the piece to run true enough to re-turn. Couldn't get the best curve on the bottom because of wall thickness and where I had to place the wheels of the steady rest but I think it looks a little more presentable.

cbb h.jpg cbb i.jpg cbb j.jpg

That looks much better. Another approach to turning the bottom/base is to turn it between centers. Then, the chuck will not be in the way. That's how I re-turn my vases. After they dry, I will jam chuck the vase (between centers), clean up the bottom and fine tune the bottom curve. Sometimes that requires turning a custom jam chuck to fit the top of the vase to hold it securely.