Feedback on Sharpening Setup

[Russ Ellis]

Trying not to do another “Which ______” thread, but it is anyhow...

My goal is a reasonable system to keep chisels and plane blades in good working condition. I have used oil stones and DMT diamond stones for pocket knives but have not used water stones.

The current plan:
- Ohishi 3000 grit water stone
- Ohishi 8000 grit water stone
- Atoma 400 grit diamond plate for flattening
- ‘Eclipse’ style honing guide (Tools From Japan version)

I still need to decide what to use for a 1000 grit water stone or something in the 800-1200 grit range. This will probably be a splash-and-go type of water stone like above or a DMT Dia-Sharp diamond stone. One of the factors to this decision is I want to restore a few old planes, so I am expecting the lower grit will be used frequently.

Does it look like I am heading in the right direction?

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Russ. Welcome to SMC! I use diamond stones so I'll defer to my betters on water stones.

But you may find it useful to get a scrap of granite from a countertop place and glue coarse grit sandpaper to it too. I keep 120 and 320 mounted on a 4 foot piece and it's handy when I need it. Wish I'd done this before I bought the coarse grit diamond stones - could have saved $200.

Best of luck.
FRED

[Curt Putnam]

I have the famous 3 stone set from Stu (Tools from Japan) and could not be happier. For really coarse work, I vote sandpaper. Some 80 grit for the gnarly stuff. On the Worksharp 3000 my progression is 80, 120 220 320 600, 1200 - works for me.

JMO & YMWV

[Archie England]

My preference.... for IMO the four stages of sharpening: shaping, cutting, honing, and polishing.

There are just so many good to great stones out there to declare any single stone the "best"; however,

for shaping (better reshaping crumbled edges or nicks or regrinding non-squared bevels, there must be a powerful abraider stone. The Sigma 200 is awesome and aweful, too. It will chew through O1, A2, and chew well enough on HSS but it leaves ugly gashes on blade backs and should never be used that way. It's messy!!! Has to worked virtually in standing or running water; but, it is very resistant to going out of flatness. A less abrasive stone, and thus slower would be the Cerax 320, Sigma 400, and King deluxe 300. All three are good but each with issues. The Sigma 400 is fast but will brutally eat up diamond flattening plates (if not low enough grit [AMHIKT]). And, the Sigma is a pain to get flat and keep flat. The Cerax beat the King in speed; the King beats the Cerax in staying flat.

for cutting (Commonly called sharpening). I've achieved excellent results with Besters, Sigmas, and Choseras (and have tried numerous others). Hence, I have kept the Bester 1200, Sigma 1200, and Chosera 1000. All three get used! I believe, now, due to testing with Chris G., that the Chosera 800 may be the single best compromise. It quickly cuts the shaped blade to a fantastic edge. Certainly, there are others who feel the same about their Shaptons, etc. My suggestion is to stay on the lower end of cutting and then use the next honing level to refine it. This, however, is where so many part ways. Chris goes 800 to 8000; I go 1000 (or 1200) to 3000 to 10k or 13k. Occasionally, I'll include a 6000 stone. Again, this is my preference. You'll develop your own.

for honing Honing is an intermediate step that I enjoy. I have a 3000 Chosera and a Gesshin 4000 (Thanks, OBG). Both these hone the edge very well. I believe the Chosera 3k is best. Perhaps honing and polishing all fit together. But, I've noticed that my 6000, 10000, and 13000 really do a great job at refining edges, though the 6000 still removes metal--much more so than a 10k or higher.

for polishing Use an 8k, 10k, or higher. I love the Sigma 10k actually more than the 13k; but that's because it soups and works silky smooth like a Chosera. The Sigma 13k does the better job (again, my opinion).

So, add lower grit stone (or other mediums: grinders, DMT, glass with sandpaper, etc.) and then pick the "cutting" stone that best fits your needs.

Have fun.

[Robert Engel]

You're fine on the higher grits. 8000 will give you a nice polished edge. I don't go higher than this.

When I'm touching up an edge in the middle of work, I typically start with 800 then 1200 then straight to 8000.

I use all diamond plates for the lower grits. My high grit is a 4K/8K Norton water stone.
Then I have the DMT duo sharps going from extra coarse up to extra fine I believe the grits are 300/600/800/1200.

I use the 300 for flattening my waterstones. I had one of the "flattening" stones but IT wasn't flat!!

For the 1000 grit, if you want a water stone, just get a good quality one. They're not expensive. I don't understand the dilemma there.

Have you looked at the Shaptons?

[Russ Ellis]

Thanks for the warm reception.

I have looked at the Shapton stones. Do not see the value per dollar in the GlassStone series. The Professional series (particularly the 1000 grit) is an option.

Just a few days ago I found some of Chris' posts on the Chosera 800. Still need to do some reading because I’m not sure if this one needs to be soaked or if that is a preference.

Will also look into the granite options for shaping.

[Brian Holcombe]

This will probably go against the typical, but I have a Cho 1k and 3k and I just spray them with water and use them. If for some reason there is not enough water and the stone is drying I will spray more.

I have soaked for 5 minutes and I hate the result, I like either a quick soak (1 min) or spraying.

I have some brief time on the granite setup and so far I really like it.