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Thread: Woodworker II Saw Blade

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    362

    Woodworker II Saw Blade

    Having lusted after one of these for some time I finally stepped up and bought one. I have always used Freud, Doablo and Oshlun for a dado set. Man is this one Sweet blade! Purchased the 10 X 40T thin kerf with the stabilizer and it`s Nice. First few cuts have been a breeze through some 8/4 Purpleheart and some Walnut. I Like it!!
    I may not have it all together, but together we have it all.

  2. #2
    I have used WWII for 30 years or so. I have tried a few others over the years including the Tenyru Gold which I just sold on E-Bay for $20. Picked up a new WWII several months back at a really good price so I now have a WWII for a back up. I use a Freud Glue Line Rip blade (thin kerf) when ripping thick stock but other than that the WWII doesn't come off my Shopsmith PowerPro.

    Jack

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Haubstadt (Evansville), Indiana
    Posts
    1,301
    I have that blade and it is a very good blade. I bought a sawstop so I no longer use it (using only full kerf now). For my sawstop I bought a full kerf 50 tooth combination WB blade from Carbide Processors a couple months ago. I also bought their rip blade. Yesterday I finally put the combination blade on my saw (just recovering from broken shoulder) and can say it is also a very good blade. Very happy with the performance. I'm not comparing the blades as they are different types. I also have Infinity and Freud blades that also perform well. When you get to the premium blades the performance differences are small and get down to user preferences IMOP, however I will buy from Carbide Processors for my next blade. You also get a 10% discount ( that I forgot to do ) for members.
    When working I had more money than time. In retirement I have more time than money. Love the time, miss the money.

  4. #4
    I have the woodworker II and it is a very nice blade. I run a full kerf as I don't like thin kerf blades. When you do need to get it sharpened way down the road, send it back to Forrest and have them do it. It will come back as new condition.

    Red
    RED

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Oakley, CA
    Posts
    322
    I have two WWII blades. My favorite is the one I ordered with a #1 grind. It is almost the same as the "standard" WWII which I think has a #7 grind (ATB), except the tops of the teeth are ground flat so the blade leaves a flat bottomed kerf. I was told it was developed for making box joints. I like both of them a lot!

    Wayne

  6. #6
    Yup. Nice blades. I've never regretted buying mine!
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    North East, PA
    Posts
    250
    +1 on the full kerf blades for Sawstop saw. I had 2 Forrest thin kerfs leftover from my contractor saw days, and don't like them at all on the sawstop.

    I'm fond of Forrest and Infinity, but I agree with others here that you can't go wrong with any of the premium blades.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,426
    I don't do thin kerf - that means I have to recalibrate the rip fence when I change blades.

    Other than that - you've got a good blade there. As advised - send it to Forrest for sharpening.

    Over the past 15 years, I have build up a collection of Forrest:

    2 x WW II 40t [one on the saw, one out for sharpening]
    1 x WW I 30t rip
    1 x WW I 20 t rip
    1 x 80t panel Hi ATB
    2 x 12" chopmaster [one on the CMS, one out for sharpening]
    1 x 8" Dado King set.

    Other guys like other products. No argument on my part. But these have been excellent, and I would never consider changing.

    Those low-tooth count rip blades are simply amazing through the big stuff - 6/4 - - 8/4 WO, HM, etc....nothing is as hard as WO.....and it cuts like butter. I am always concerned when I have to "lean in" to a rip cut - bad things can happen -- the 30t and 20t put paid to that problem.

    The cut is not as clean, but that is a non-issue - couple light jointer passes, and it's good. Plus - minimize [or eliminate] HM burn.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,875
    I have two of the 40T WW-II blades (standard kerf) and have had them in service for many years now. Both have been sharpened about four times by Forrest and the most recent time, a couple of teeth were replaced. They put beefy teeth on their blades which means more re-sharpening opportunities before replacing the whole blade. I still run them despite the fact that they are 10" and my slider will take a 12" blade. I also have the 24t ripping version...I don't use that very often, but it "eats wood" when I need it to rip something thick.

    I had the 8" Dado King when I had my cabinet saw...it was also a very high quality product.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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