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Thread: Customary Tool for Making Slots in Wood?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Virginia
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    Since you mention a router plane, I assume you may have one (as opposed to a plow, which I agree is the best choice, but one you may not want to buy for this project). Personally, I would try the router plane above a chisel or saw. Rig up a fence out of some scrap wood to keep the blade at the distance from the edge you want, and I think you will get pretty decent results. As with a plow, it would probably help to start the groove "at the end" and work back towards you.

    I have used my router plane with one side in the air, but I think your idea of clamping a board next to it is probably a good one.
    Last edited by Nicholas Lawrence; 06-22-2015 at 9:37 AM. Reason: Spelling

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Charlotte, MI
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    Lots of ways to do this (the plow being the most sensible), but the most important thing is to make sure you lay out the groove with a mortise gauge before cutting no matter what tool you use. Fences slip and you could end up with a ruined piece and not even realize it until its too late. Laying out the groove will help you see when (not if) your fence slips.
    Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    FL
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    I'm starting to realize why people like power tools. I already knew they require less skill and do some things more quickly, but it looks like they're also cheaper. Every time I have a new task to do with a hand tool, I find out I need something that costs $250. My table router was something like $400 with the lift and enough gadgets to make it work, but it does a million things.

    I thought I was splurging when I spent $850 on a huge band saw, but that's only three or four new hand planes. Old plow planes aren't cheap either! I guess I'll have to try to be shrewd about what I buy.

    Right now I'm thinking I'll use the router or drill press for this, just so I won't be stuck. It turns out a 2-flute HSS end mill in the drill press works very well.
    Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.

    I was socially distant before it was cool.

    A little authority corrupts a lot.

  4. #19
    If you want to do a hybrid approach, cut the grooves on your table saw and then flatten the bottom with a hand plane, probably a router plane. I find that easier than cutting them with a powered router. The table saw cuts quickly and easily - and cleanly on the sides.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Beaverton, OR
    Posts
    444
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve H Graham View Post
    I'm starting to realize why people like power tools. I already knew they require less skill and do some things more quickly, but it looks like they're also cheaper. Every time I have a new task to do with a hand tool, I find out I need something that costs $250.
    This is why I like Paul Sellers approach to teaching, he uses a minimum of tools and shows several ways to accomplish a given task depending on the tools that you have at hand. A plow plane is truly the best tool for the job, but if you don't have one he shows how to cut the sides of the groove with a hand saw then remove the waste in the middle with his "poor man's router". It is paid content, but if you sign up for the free month you can see him doing it in this video.

    You can easily spend a king's ransom on hand tools, but you don't have to. My wooden plow plane cost me under $40, my #5 Stanley plane was $30 shipped, a 16" backsaw was $25 including re-teething and sharpening by Mike Wenzloff, but on the other hand I have splurged $125 on a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw and $149 on a Veritas router plane. Paul Sellers shows how to make a router plane and rebate plane out of a 2x4 and 1/2" chisel and I can already picture in my mind how your could easily make a plow plan from some scrap wood and 1/4" chisel using the same techniques as that "poor man's router plane" but with a fence fixed to your needed width.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Charlotte, MI
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    Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    FL
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    I am thinking I might make a one-purpose tool just to do this job.
    Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.

    I was socially distant before it was cool.

    A little authority corrupts a lot.


  8. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    1,026
    Right now I am busy fabricating a replacement for the disintegrating cheese/metal fence support on my Rikon planer/jointer, but once I get done with that, I might try to make a tool for grooves.

    I cannot understand why Rikon uses pot metal. You can literally snap it between your fingers.

    06 23 15 rikon jointer fence with aluminum pipe mocked up.jpg
    Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.

    I was socially distant before it was cool.

    A little authority corrupts a lot.

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