help finish a dining table/workbench

[Peter Choi]

I'm finally almost complete with my dining table/work bench. It took me a while to design and get started on it, but I could get anywhere due to work. Its all made from hand tools and will double as a work bench and dining table, since space in nyc is super limited. The top part of the table is made out of red oak but a very light red oak and the legs are made out of pine. They almost look similar to color except the pine has a slight whiteish/yellowish tint to it compared to the super light red oak. I love the color and want to keep it pretty natural and don't want to stain it. What do you guys recommend to finish it with?

I need it safe to eat off and durable enough to endure food and liquid spills. But also maybe something where it won't poison my puppy if she does bite into it while my girlfriend and I aren't home. She's 3 months old and is going through the biting stage. If nothings safe I could possibly just block the area off but she's smart and has learned to climb above her play pen sometimes.

[Steve Schoene]

Clear finishes in the US are all required to be safe. Your puppy is not going to be harmed by the finish, but faces more risk if he chews off splinters. Work benches like finishes that don't create a film that makes it more difficult to keep work pieces from sliding around. But such films are more resistant to food and liquid spills. I'd go with a good light colored varnish such as Pratt & Lambert 38. Your two woods will change color over time, but won't do so identically so differences in color will increase over time--nothing to be done about that.

[John TenEyck]

The palest finish you can use that will offer food and liquid protection is a waterborne acrylic or poly. An added bonus is they will dry very quickly and won't stink up your apartment like an oil based product. I really like General Finishes EnduroVar for table tops - very durable and goes on easily with a foam brush.

John

[Peter Choi]

ok thanks guys! theres a paint store around my area that carries some nice paints and varnishes. I'll see what they have. I know they carry waterlox and pratt and lambert, Ill check if they have general finishes.

[Peter Choi]

I got the general finishes endurovar since thats what the paint store also recommended but I applied a small layer to a corner of my table and its not smooth. I sanded to 600 grit but when I applied a small layer of it, it became rough again. Am I doing something wrong? I just got a brush and did one quick swipe. Im afraid to apply anymore.

[John TenEyck]

The water in the finish raised the grain. You could have reduced that problem by first wetting the wood with water and then sanding it very gently after it dried again. Sorry I didn't mention that. At this point I would sand it with 320 or 400 grit by hand or with your ROS if it's really bad just enough to get back to a smooth surface. Or you could remove the roughness with a card scraper. Once it's smooth you can apply another coat of EnduroVar or you could wet it with water to raise the grain. In either case, you may have to do this two or three times to eliminate all the grain raising. Then you can apply 2 or 3 more coats of EnduroVar to build up a smooth, protective film.

Alternatively, you could use SealCoat shellac for the next one or two coats after you sand it smooth. It won't raise the grain (as much) but it will darken the color, so if you want to stay as pale as possible just stick with EnduroVar.

John

[Michelle Rich]

I don't know if you are asking too much of a "finish"..to look good when it is a dining table, and then to be strong enough for a workbench. The workbench use will surely dent, ding, chip, and mangle any hard finish. just the nature of woodworking. If it were my "combo use" table, I would use tung oil (real ) ..it will resist liquids..if you do get a real nasty spill that stains..you can always sand it out..or heck, live with it as battle scars.

[Peter Choi]

ah that makes sense, thanks! Ill have to sand it over a little more.

Its ok if it makes dents, I don't mind the imperfections and damages it does, it just adds to the rustic look lol

[Jerry Olexa]

Any chance for some pics?

[Steve Swinehart]

I'd suggest also looking at Deks Olje d.1 Deks is a penetrating oil finish generally used on boats. The d.1 is a matte penetrating sealer and may be used as a finish by itself or in conjunction with d.2 (gloss). After applying d.1 to seal the wood, d.1 and d.2 can be mixed to get any level of gloss. Deks is easy to apply as it can be wiped on or brushed. Deks is also easy to repair and refresh the finish as an additional coat can be applied at any time by simply wiping it on or brushing it on and then wiping off the excess.

[Bill McNiel]

Waterlox Original - light Amber tone, easy to apply multiple coats and rub-out to desired finish sheen, can be recoated later without having to scuff the surface for adheasion and it is expensive which, of course, makes it better.