Nova 1624-44 motor problem?

[Brian Gleason]

One day was working fine, then next it wouldn't turn without coaxing. The motor would humm but wouldn't turn without me starting to spin it. Now sometimes even with some coaxing it wont spin, just hums. Electric motors are NOT my forte. Can anyone offer a suggestion? Easy fix?

Thanks
Brian

[daryl moses]

Sounds like the start capacitor crapped out on you. Pretty easy fix if it is.

[david privett]

I agree also depending on motor configuration there might be a centrifugal switch that kicks the start circuit in and out I have seen the contacts of those carbon up and make to much resistance for the capacitor to start the motor. Just something else to look at when you check out the cap. If you can not find a exact micro fared (mf) match you can get by with a slightly higher rated cap, just do not go lower.

[carl mesaros]

My 1-1/2 delta dust collector did the same thing. As mentioned above an easy fix. The capacitor has gone bad.
I was told that a + - 10% of the microfarad number would work, which was true in my case. Most larger hardware stores carry them.

[Walter Mooney]

+1 on the starter capacitor. I had the same problem with my Delta midi. But there is a "good-news" side to this. If before this your lathe did not/could not run in reverse, it can now if you don't replace the capacitor. Just 'coax' it into reverse and do your sanding (or whatever you might like/need to do in reverse rotation)!

[Dennis Ford]

It is either the start capacitor or the centrifugal switch that disconnects the start winding once the motor is running. Start capacitors are not expensive, the switch might have something (wood chip) keeping it open.

[Brian Gleason]

OK, see the picture. Guessing this is a start capacitor? Obviously the problem. So now the question is, what does all the written stuff mean. I no nothing about electronics. Did a search for CBB 60 SH and got a slew of stuff but need to get the correct one. Guessing 300 volt? 25/70/21??? does that mean something important?
What is the:
250V~DB HSFNT
300V~DB HSFPU

Can anyone help me out with this? Will be VERY grateful!!

20150623_082229.jpg

Thanks

[Dennis Ford]

The two numbers important to you are:
300 vac - voltage rating; get a replacement with this voltage rating or higher
60 uF - Capacitance; get a replacement with something near this rating (anywhere between 50uF and 80uF should be fine).

note that physical size and shape can vary somewhat, you need one that will fit in the cover.

[Tony Cognato]

If there is a Graingers in your area call them or bring it in ( or even go online ) I have replaced many dozens of these for various motors as an electrician and they have them all.

[Brian Gleason]

Just to make sure i understand correctly. it is OK to get a voltage rating higher than 300V? I have found one that is 450V and 80uF. I just can't seem to find any that are 60uF. This would be OK?

Thanks for all the help!

[Matt Schrum]

That should work-- a higher voltage rating just means that it can handle higher voltages if needed. That is, a 450vac can handle 300 volts AC, but a 300vac can't handle 450vac.

Also, check the dimensions listed compared to the one you had go bad, but this capacitor seems to be pretty close.
http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYT...Code=P2IDP2PCP

[david privett]

looking at that cap I would check out the amp draw on the motor and the wire sizing you have feeding it, That cap has gotten hot. It could be the start switch not kicking out also. If all checks out ok I would go with a slightly larger cap. It will get the motor spinning a little faster on start up.

[Brian Gleason]

Well, i was so excited to finally find one (hard to find believe it or not) that i bought it without heeding the advice about checking the size. Which leads me to this question. I can find 250 V or 450 V. I bought the 450V to be safe but its too big. The burn out one (see the pic) seems to be a 300V but it does say on the casing 250V-DB HSFNT and below that it says 300V - DB HSFPU.
It seems the 250V one's i can find are the smaller size that will fit in the casing but i dont want to buy 250V if it needs to be 300V. Thoughts anyone?

[david privett]

the voltage think between 250 volt and 300 volt is nothing ,you are most likely operating on 220- 240 volt commercial power but there is two things about size first is the physical size so it will fit wherever it sits on the motor so it can not be just to large. Then there is the micro-fared (MF) rating that is how much kick the cap. provides to the motor to get it to start spinning from a dead stop. This is the important one ,make sure that the mf rating is the same or a little larger in number than the original. And as I wrote before I would check your amp draw with a inductive amp meter and make sure that the wiring to the lathe is of the correct gauge. Or a burned out motor you might be replacing next.

[Robert Willing]

For anyone interested I have a spare Nova 16 24 motor left from my up grade. It was use for about one year. I still have the box the up grade was sent in from the factory. Not sure what shipping would be but would like at least $75.00 for the motor. The motor has the switch attached and ready to replace just make the switch.