table saw overhead dust collection

[Derek Voigt]

I’m still in the process of set up my basement work shop. I have a 3HP Grizzly cyclone running to my table saw with about 30 ft of 6” PVC running right up to the back of the saw. The issue is that I get a lot of dust on TOP of the table that doesn’t get sucked through my zero clearance insert. I was looking at getting an aftermarket one that doubles as a guard, but the way my dust collection is set up I would like it to run along the ceiling and connect into my main collection line instead of worrying about routing it down around the table and then connecting it the regular table saw port on the ground like most do. In fact I can set it up so that a 6” PCV runs just about over top of the saw, so I all would really need is the guard and the mechanism that would move the guard up and down.


Any ideas the best way to do something like this?

Derek

[Eric DeSilva]

On my Unisaw, I have a 6" port in the bottom and a separate 4" port attached to a Sharkguard on the top. The guy who makes the Sharkguards can put in virtually any size port your want and the guards themselves are very nice. Mine is attached to a Biesenmeier overarm bracket that can slide out of the way when I'm doing cuts where that doesn't work, which means I have to use a bit of flex pipe to avoid having to connect/disconnect the dust collection when I move the guard. But it works well for me. I've seen pictures on SMC of some other folks that have mounted the guard brackets to the ceiling, but that configuration seemed too complicated to set up.

[Ole Anderson]

I got a SharkGuard set up for a 3" hose, it works great. Easy on easy off. When I am not using it, it hangs from a loop on the joist. There are a few operations that no matter how hard you try, you will get dust on the table.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Derek, I use a piece of 2.5" flex down to my guard from the ceiling above the saw.

If you're looking for a guard, Excalibur make a ceiling mount model............Regards, Rod.

[Mike Chalmers]

I built my own and used a Dust Picker HD to suspend it from the ceiling. use a 2.5" hose to a Ridgid 6 1/2 HP shop vac. Works quite well.

[Erik Christensen]

i have a sharkguard with 4" blast gate & flex connection to the 6" ceiling run - 6" to TS cabinet. When the guard is not required the blast gate is closed and it hangs from a bungee hook off the ceiling. works great.

[David Ragan]

Yes, a lot of those specialty outfits that have blade guard DC normally have lots of unnecessary small duct work on the TS-Excalibur and SS are the two I have experience with.

I took both of the above, rigged up similar to the suggestions and pics above, and get great DC off blade guard from a ceiling drop (more of less).

[John TenEyck]

I have a 4" hose to the back of the my Unisaw and installed an old Sears guard to a spring loaded parallelogram mounted to the ceiling. When the guard is sealed on wood it captures nearly all the sawdust. It's less effective when part of the guard is open.

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John

[Jim Andrew]

I have 2 tablesaws, both with overhead dust collection. First is a unisaw, with shark guard and a 4" hose down from the ceiling. The second is a Hammer K3 Winner, has a guard over the blade with a 2" dust connection, so have a 2" hose to it. Both work very well, was surprised how well the Hammer ts collects the dust. So use whatever hose size you want, but Shark Guard is a great way to retrofit a tablesaw. Much better guard than the original one that came with your saw.

[Robert Engel]

OK, I'll probably catch some flack but what do you need it for?

If its just for catching dust on top of the table is it really worth the effort or expense?
An air gun is whole lot cheaper, no?

If its for keeping your lungs clean(er) do your really want to rely on it?

Even with OHDC, are you going to trust that to protect your lungs when cutting something nasty like MDF?

I've seen guys with the OHDC wearing respirators which tells me they just don't want to sweep up sawdust.

[Lester Sak]

I built mine from plans from Wood Magazine. 2 suggestions if you try this:

1) Swing the arm out of the way (don't use it) if the cut-off is short enough to fit inside the dust collector hood. I did this once, and the cut-off got pulled into the hood, dancing in the air around the blade. When it hit the blade, it got thrown at me, breaking through the plexi I used for the window and hit me in the mouth. Just got a bloody lip, but learned my lesson.

2) DON'T USE PLEXI FOR THE WINDOW. After my experience above, I ordered a scrap piece of Lexan from Ebay, more expensive but much more more impact resistant. Will never be an issue if rule 1 is followed

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[Derek Voigt]

Some interesting ideas here. I certainly don't want to spend $400-500 for a system when all I really need is the guard to cover the blade and the manner to attach it to the saw (I already have the hoses and blast gates).

And Robert, to answer your question the main purpose is to keep the dust from flying all over, an air gun would only make that worse. My shop is in the basement, so I don't have the luxury to open the garage door and blow it all out. I need to control it as good as I can at the source. Otherwise I end up with dust all over my clothes and shoes that get tracked up stairs... and then yes, I have to sweep the floor better, both in the shop and in the house.

I'm fortunate to have about 900 square feet of basement to work with and can keep the worst offenders of dust far away from the door to help limit the problem.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I built mine from plans from Wood Magazine. 2 suggestions if you try this:

1) Swing the arm out of the way (don't use it) if the cut-off is short enough to fit inside the dust collector hood. I did this once, and the cut-off got pulled into the hood, dancing in the air around the blade. When it hit the blade, it got thrown at me, breaking through the plexi I used for the window and hit me in the mouth. Just got a bloody lip, but learned my lesson.

2) DON'T USE PLEXI FOR THE WINDOW. After my experience above, I ordered a scrap piece of Lexan from Ebay, more expensive but much more more impact resistant. Will never be an issue if rule 1 is followed

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Very nice design. Simple yet effective.

[Albert Lee]

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This is how I do it, the ducting drops from the main duct from the ceiling.

[John Lankers]

I have 2 blade guards/dust hoods (and I use both), one that came with the saw and is attached to the riving knife on which I opened the top to accommodate a 4" hose (highly recommended) and one that I built which is mounted to the dust collection pipe and can be used even with the dado blade. Both are on a swing arm and can pivot out off the way when necessary. The key is not to choke off the air flow, also long and narrow is better than short and wide.