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Thread: Card Scraper v Scraper Plane

  1. #16
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    My LN scrapers fit my LV scraper card holder. I use them in it frequently.

  2. #17
    Scraper plane infinitely preferable for flat surfaces, it will keep them "flat".

    I like a card scraper for shaped surfaces such as those found on chairs.

    Best wishes,
    David

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by david charlesworth View Post
    Scraper plane infinitely preferable for flat surfaces, it will keep them "flat".
    David
    I don't have any experience with the scraper plane, but I can't see how it would keep em flat better than a properly used scraper. A scraper for example, has a much wider contact surface with the work. Comparing it to the scraper planes I see, you are looking at twice the contact surface for the scraper blade as compared to that scraper plane blade. This alone leads to improved flatness. The tool though, is really only for final surface finish, right? Just very small amounts of material to be removed. If your surface prep is not done correctly before that then all bets are off

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    I don't have any experience with the scraper plane, but I can't see how it would keep em flat better than a properly used scraper.
    The scraper plane has a reference surface. Similar to trimming tenon shoulders with a chisel versus a shoulder plane. However, like a shoulder plane, a scraper plane does not provide all scraping functions. Each tool to its job ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    I don't have any experience with the scraper plane, but I can't see how it would keep em flat better than a properly used scraper. A scraper for example, has a much wider contact surface with the work. Comparing it to the scraper planes I see, you are looking at twice the contact surface for the scraper blade as compared to that scraper plane blade. This alone leads to improved flatness. The tool though, is really only for final surface finish, right? Just very small amounts of material to be removed. If your surface prep is not done correctly before that then all bets are off
    So, would it be fair to say that a card scraper is more useful for actually removing milling marks?

    Or, as David C said, and my question was meant, that if at all possible, go with the scraper plane, cause it will leave a flatter surface?

    Any issues with easing the very corners of the scraper plane?
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Ragan View Post
    So, would it be fair to say that a card scraper is more useful for actually removing milling marks?

    Or, as David C said, and my question was meant, that if at all possible, go with the scraper plane, cause it will leave a flatter surface?

    Any issues with easing the very corners of the scraper plane?
    I think you might want to use your smoothing plane first for those milling marks and then a card scraper to sweeten up the surface as needed.
    The point Glenn makes is well stated, however, I think that using a card scraper is really just a light pass type of tool - its not a substitute for your smoothing plane. If its used for heavy stock removal than, yes, there can be trouble/

  7. #22
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    I own a Stanley #112 and #80, plus the small Veritas scraping plane, none of which get much if any use. They all work, and do so quite well, but just do not serve a purpose in my choice of method.

    The Veritas and the #80 occasionally get used for glue lines, but other than that I prefer a cabinet scraper (or card, as it seems to be called in the USA).

    The issue is not so much that the scraper plane can keep the surface flat - I am not convinced of that since the blade is generally bent into a radius - the issue is more one of horses for courses. What I like about the cabinet scraper is that it is akin to a very small smoother, and it will take less off the surface than a longer handplane. While some surfaces need to be dead flat (if you plan to create a reflective funish), it is otherwise not visible.

    For myself it is also not a case of difficulty controlling tearout as I can do that pretty well with a handplane. It is more a case if situations where it is difficult to use a handplane, and then I will use a cabinet scraper.

    What I like about the cabinet scraper is that it has an unfinite number of cutting angles. Bend the blade and create a smaller cutting area if you need. It is also very easy to see where you are cutting, and possible to start and stop on a mark.

    Below is a panel I recently worked on. It is 1/4" thick, and maintaining absolute flatness (edit: when lying on the bench top) was impossible. A handplane could not be used without removing more of the thickness. The surface looks good to me - as good as a handplane? Probably not, but very good nevertheless, and once an oil finish goes on, I cannot tell the difference.





    One more example. Below is a chest with dovetails at the ends. Planing with the grain would threaten breaking off the edges (spelching) of the dovetail endgrain. I smoothed the dovetails and then used a cabinet scraper to the start of the dovetail baseline ..



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 06-27-2015 at 3:43 AM.

  8. #23
    In the hands of the unskilled, (I teach beginners) the card scraper is an invitation to create hollows, which subsequently cause problems with finishes which need sanding between coats.

    Scraper planes are magnificent tools if sharpened and set correctly. However it is clear that some find them difficult.

    Maintaining flatness with a card scraper is skilled work.

    Best wishes,
    David

  9. #24
    So true, but that can be said about any tools.
    Quoting from another source, think of the card scrapper as a micro-plane.
    "Have no part plane's just keep restoring them"
    "aka; acowboy"

  10. #25
    With no sole!

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