No Jointer Questions

[Ben Gunter]

Hi All,

I'm taking on the Split Top Roubo build with the designs from Benchcrafted. As I prepare to start this, I'm faced with a dilemma. As of today, I own a 13" planer. I do not have a jointer. With this project, I'm attempting to avoid a jointer purchase, although I certainly realize that that purchase is inevitable. Funds are tight right now, so I'm really just trying to avoid too many extra tool purchases if I can.

Boards for this project will be 8/4 Ash and anywhere from 5-10" in width.

My question is this: How do I flatten the boards initially before I send them through the planer?

My guesses so far include the following: (realizing that they may be terribly inefficient or not practical)
- Jointing one face with a jointer plane (I own) or a scrub plane (I do not own).
- Some type of jig with a router
- Other suggestions?

I do have a router table, which I understand can be used to joint edges? Please confirm. Even so, that still doesn't solve my 1st problem.

I appreciate any and all advice. Thanks!

[John Donofrio]

You could build a planer sled to hold the piece stable while one side gets flattened then take it off the sled to flatten the other side.

[rudy de haas]

If you only have the one project to do.. get someone else to flatten the boards for you. Friends are good to have.. (one of mine resawed some jatoba for me just a month or so
ago because he has an 18" bandsaw and I don't.)

In Canada many Windsor plywood stores maintain some level of wood working shop - the people here in lethbridge, for example, flattened the hickory I used for my
stairway for me. Since then I've bought a jointer, but if that trial project had been a disaster I'd now have fewer fingers at risk! I have no idea where you are, but where-ever
that is, there will be someone who can help.

[Andrew Ulsher]

http://www.finewoodworking.com/works...ng-lumber.aspx

Sled for one face, router for the edge, or call/make a friend.

[Ben Gunter]

Given that I'm making a huge & capable workbench, this will definitely not be the only project. Just the first big one at this time.

That said, getting someone else to flatten them is a good idea. Is there any concern with getting pieces flattened and then having them sit for some period of time (a few weeks) before I get to them?

Also, if I go with the "friend" route, would I get them to 4-square the board, or just flatten one face so I can then put the boards through my planer?

[Don Jarvie]

You can buy them one side flat or get already killed wood. A little more expensive but cheaper than a jointer.

[Lee Schierer]

If your rough boards are flat then you can run them through your planer taking light cuts until the surface cleans up. A planer will not easily flatten twisted or bowed boards without a sled. It can deal with some cupping but you have to go slowly.

[Allan Speers]

Sleds work great, but do a lot of research before building one, as there are many designs and some a much easier to use than others.
Hint: You do NOT need to glue wedges into the sides !


Also, for a small project, as long as you already have a decent bench to work on, and you have sharp tools and know how to keep them that way, doing it by hand is really quite easy, even enjoyable. - But make sure to use winding sticks, or you may end up "flat but with a twist."

- And no scrub plane, unless you need to hog off an inch or so ! Scrubs work fast & deep, and you can easily go too far in the blink of an eye.

[glenn bradley]

http://www.finewoodworking.com/works...ng-lumber.aspx

Sled for one face, router for the edge, or call/make a friend.

I built the Keith Rust version and it works very well. The version in Shop Notes #137 is more refined but not really more functional. If I planned to wait awhile to get a wide jointer I would build the Shop Notes version. The effort is pretty close on either.

You can buy them one side flat or get already killed wood. A little more expensive but cheaper than a jointer.

We all have different versions of "flat" ;-) IME the odds of getting an actual flat board of the size and figure I am after is negligible. I used a planer sled for face jointing for about 18 months and still have it for surfaces that exceed my 8" jointer.

[Matt Day]

I agree you should have a friend or pro shop joint them. You should try to plane the other sides asap. And ideally you do this process twice- a rough milling, acclimate, then a final milling to proper dimension.

Would a used 6" jointer do it for a while? They seem to be just about as common on Craigslist as RAS's are, and can be had for around $150. Might be worth it to be able to do it all yourself, especially since you should be able to sell it for what you bought it for.

[Prashun Patel]

I am with lee. Plane alternate faces lightly until you get an evenly thicknessed piece. You may be able to clamp them into submission unless they are really out of whack.

[Roger Pozzi]

I built the Keith Rust version and it works very well. The version in Shop Notes #137 is more refined but not really more functional. If I planned to wait awhile to get a wide jointer I would build the Shop Notes version. The effort is pretty close on either.

I built the Shop Notes model Glenn referred to and must say it was well worth the effort. It works beautifully and takes up hardly any room stored behind my planer when not in use. Space is an issue in my 10'X16' shop.

planer sled.jpg

[Reinis Kanders]

Use your jointer plane and jack plane. I am about done with benchtop from 8/4 inch Ash and I also do not have a jointer and I do not like my benchtop planer. It does take some time, but at the end you will know your planes and your sharpening will be more efficient and you will have some handtool skills to use on your new workbench. I did use my bandsaw once in a while, but Ash even handsaws pretty decently.
Do not bother with all these contraptions and jigs unless you truly enjoy building them.

[Michael Weber]

I posted with a link to another forum, sorry mods, my bad. The method requires a router sled like you would use to flatten an entire board. But instead of flattening the entire board you just make two parallel groves, one near each edge, only as deep as necessary. Then place flat sticks of wood or other material in the grooves. The flat runners now provide a flat reference to support the board through the planner until a flat surface is achieved. Flip the board, remove the runners and plane that side.

[Stew Hagerty]

That is what I usually do. or if it's for just one piece of wood, I more than likely pull out my scrub plane, a #5, a #7, and my pair of winding sticks.