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Thread: Titebond II squeezout still gummy after a week

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    KC
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    Titebond II squeezout still gummy after a week

    Glued up some 4" square posts out of 1" thick Hard Maple stock, and thinking since it is for a kitchen island, and may get some moisture exposure near the bottom, I would use titebond II. It's been a week now, and while cleaning the squeeze out off, I noticed it is "gummy". Soft enough that I can bury a fingernail into it. I'm just sick. I've done several other glue ups during this same time period with titebond original, and the squeeze out is rock hard.
    I called Franklin, and they asked me the typical obvious questions, but had no answers. Any ideas?

  2. #2
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    Dec 2003
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    SF Bay Area, CA
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    I think the most obvious one is the date on the bottle or age of the glue.

    Typically, PVAs do not get rock hard...they always seem to have some flexibility about them.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  3. #3
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    According to franklin, the bottle was mfg'd 5/20/2015. The TB II is noticeably softer than the original. They said the only difference I should notice, is a slightly different color than the original. They are sending me a new gallon.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Napa Valley, CA
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    If it's globs of squeeze-out that are rubbery, that's normal. It stays flexible even when set-up. Does not mean your project is compromised.

    Do you have enough extra length that you can cut off a slice and test the actual joint?

  5. #5
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    I've seen blobs of it stay soft for prolonged periods on warm days when the outside of a heavy glue area dried quickly and glazed over trapping wet glue beneath, never seems to dry out until you scrape it off. I've seen thinner blobs of type II dry so hard over night that you could cut your skin easily if you slipped while scraping it. It may not be a major issue. Can you stress the joints mildly and see if they hold?
    "A good miter set up is like yoga pants: it makes everyone's butts look good." Prashun Patel

  6. #6
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    Jul 2014
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    SE PA, Central Bucks County
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    Most of my squeeze out with TB II gets hard enough to remove with a scraper.

  7. #7
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    Dec 2007
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    OK, so I sliced off a 1/4" of the post and rubbed a couple drops of water on it and this is the result. I don't like what I see. the glue just kinda stretches out and is spanning the separation in the joint?!?!
    tbII.jpg

  8. #8
    Sorry it's not going well. I would call this an example of what I mentioned the other day in the thread about board width for panel glue ups; glue companies reccommend using narrow boards because if they are not jointed well they might stay together anyway if narrow. I doubt there is anything wrong with the glue. Try using the glue on a couple of pieces within hollerin' distance.

  9. #9
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    "on a couple of pieces within hollerin' distance. "

    NOW YOU HAVE DONE IT!!!!!!!!! Gotta wipe my lunch off of my monitor and desk. . . . . . . . . guess I should swallow before reading. . . . my bad, sorry Mel.

  10. #10
    Even regular Titebond fully cured would not be affected by a little water. I would just test the glue on two pieces that are flat ,preferably newly dressed to asure there is no contamination. If they stick I would consider the condition of any squeeze out irrevelant.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    KC
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    Funny thing is Mel, the joints you see next to the separated one held just fine when I snapped the wood when dry. It's just the addition of a small amount of water that caused the joint to open up. I was going to use a WB finish on these, but I think I will reconsider at this point. In the mean time, I have several test pieces glued & drying.

  12. #12
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    That picture looks odd. Looks to me like the boards at the open joint are not straight, not even close. What exactly am I looking at there?
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  13. #13
    Scott, you are wise to ask! I was way off on my interpretation, one of those perspective things.

  14. #14
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    They are drops off the end of some 4 x 4 posts that I glued up. About 1/4-3/8" thick. I actually discovered the problem by using one of the drops as a coaster and setting a can of cold coke on it for about 5 minutes. The result can be seen in the piece with the circular water mark, and the opened joint. Since I discovered the issue, I applied water to several other drops from the same batch of glue ups. all with the same result. Separation at the glue joint. When I break a dry one with my bare hands, I get wood failure, not glue joint failure.
    20150626_205321(1).jpg

  15. #15
    Sorry to hear about all the trouble you're having...I've never used Titebond but I've seen it discussed here a number of times. Have you ever tried Gorilla Glue? I make quite a few cutting boards mostly Cherry, Maple, Purpleheart... and use Gorilla Glue on them. It's 100% waterproof and just to test once I put one of my cutting boards in the sink and let it soak for over an hour and all of the joints were rock solid when I took it out and dried it off. I've never had a joint fail using this glue.

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