Track saw attraction???

[Mike Cutler]

OK guys, I did it. I don't know if anyone is still following this topic but FYI, I ordered a Festool TS 55 REQ and a CT 26 Dust Extractor today. Partly out of curiosity, but mostly because several of you gave some pretty darn good uses and applications for a track saw that I am sure that I can apply. Evidently I could have purchased the TS 55 EQ a little cheaper because of the newer REQ model just coming out. I am not sure of the differences between the two, if any. I should receive everything in a few days. I will keep you all posted.
Thanks,
Hank

Henry

I guess when you go, you go all in.
I think you're going to like it, I know you'll like their vacuum for many other duties than just being hooked up to their saw. I don't have a Festool vac, as I already had a Fein when I bought my TS-75. But they're very nice.

[Henry Kramer]

Well I received my Festool TS55/CT26 package last night. I had a few other projects to wrap up before I had a chance to try out the new stuff.

First impressions: The first hurdle I needed to get over was the Metric Scale indicating the blade depth. The saw did come with an overlay sticker with a U.S. measurement but it sure appeared cheap looking for such an expensive tool. I didn't put the sticker on because it reminds me of something that would be seen on a second rate Asian machine. Overall, the saw looks nice. A fair amount of plastic but that's not uncommon. I would say that it does not look as durable or hefty as a Skil Model 77 worm drive but it's also nowhere near as heavy.

I had some laminated spruce boards that I ripped first. The saw was hooked up to the CT26 vacuum/dust extractor. I have to say that I was not impressed with the ability of the dust extractor to keep the sawdust down. Was the sawdust less than using a Skil saw and a straightedge? Most certainly, however I expected close to no sawdust after all of the raving about track saws. I went back to the instruction booklet to see if I did something wrong and I didn't see anything.
In my opinion my table saw with the dust collector hooked up under the blade at the base of the saw and at the Shark Guard above the blade would have created less sawdust. It also would have been much easier to set the fence and rip the board on my table saw, of course I would have had to run the board through the jointer first to get a clean edge for ripping. That would have added another step but probably less than a minute time wise. I was impressed with the ability of the track to stay in place on the board without moving however the board was smooth and I suspect that ripping a rough cut board would have required clamping.

It's early in the testing process but so far I would score it:
Table Saw-1
Track saw-0

My next test will be to cut some plywood. I suspect that the track saw will prove handier on sheet goods.

Thank you,
Hank

[Jim Dwight]

One of the reasons I got a DeWalt is the depth scale is imperial and it indicates the depth below the track. Young people seem adjusted to metric but I am not and don't intend to change. I'm glad you have your Festool and it is working for you. I found track saw usage to be an adjustment. After decades on a table saw, I know how to use it. I'm still learning on the track saw. It isn't difficult to use but using it to make consistently accurate cuts takes different practices than other tools.

With respect to dust control, I don't have overhead dust collection on my table saw so the track saw is lower for me. But it isn't zero. Both the table saw and track saw are messier for cuts where the blade isn't buried in the wood. A neat thing about the track saw is the ability to use it indoors. I needed to rip down a door in our condo and brought the track saw and vacuum. Saved carrying it outside. It was a second story door and solid so that wouldn't have been quick or easy. Dust was not visible when I was done. I don't know of another way to do this as easily.

I like my parallel guides for cutting up sheet goods. I had to make mine but there are several brands for the Festool. I think the "Precision Dogs" option looks good for the money but there are Festool and Seneca and others. The big advantage is if you need to make multiple cuts to the same dimension. With the guides you set a stop and can cut to the exact same dimension repeatedly.

[Henry Kramer]

One of the reasons I got a DeWalt is the depth scale is imperial and it indicates the depth below the track. Young people seem adjusted to metric but I am not and don't intend to change. I'm glad you have your Festool and it is working for you. I found track saw usage to be an adjustment. After decades on a table saw, I know how to use it. I'm still learning on the track saw. It isn't difficult to use but using it to make consistently accurate cuts takes different practices than other tools.

With respect to dust control, I don't have overhead dust collection on my table saw so the track saw is lower for me. But it isn't zero. Both the table saw and track saw are messier for cuts where the blade isn't buried in the wood. A neat thing about the track saw is the ability to use it indoors. I needed to rip down a door in our condo and brought the track saw and vacuum. Saved carrying it outside. It was a second story door and solid so that wouldn't have been quick or easy. Dust was not visible when I was done. I don't know of another way to do this as easily.

Bringing the saw to the door instead of carrying the solid door to the saw seems like a very good use for a track saw Jim.

As far as the metric vs imperial scale, I can convert the measurements easy enough but I don't want to. I've been in construction all of my life and dealt in inches, feet and fractions thereof. As far as I am concerned Festool should sell their tools in the U.S. marked in imperial scale with a crappy metric sticker instead of the other way around.

[Allan Speers]

I just orders a 10 1/4" Makita 5104, for my Eurekazone EZ-ONE table. I'm keeping the 7 1/4" Hilti for regular track use, mostly plywood cutting. Nice, as I can now keep a plywood/crosscut blade on it all the time.


It reains to be seen how accurate, and how powerful, the Makita will be when making deep cuts in hard stock. I'll report back after a bit.

[Kent Adams]

Henry, I'm 48 and just learned to use metric in the last year. Once you start to use it, you'll realize its far superior to imperial for many things and I think woodworking is one of them. I still think in imperial, but I cut to metric.

[Henry Kramer]

Henry, I'm 48 and just learned to use metric in the last year. Once you start to use it, you'll realize its far superior to imperial for many things and I think woodworking is one of them. I still think in imperial, but I cut to metric.

Kent, it's not a matter of learning to use metric measurements, and I don't deny that it's an easier system however, I have a lifetime of imperial tools that I am deeply entrenched into: hundreds and hundreds of drill bits, hundreds of router bits (1/4" and 1/2" shank), 25 maybe 30 tape measures, 15-20 folding rules, a half dozen stainless steel rulers of various lengths, too many saw blades to count most 5/8" arbor and the list goes on and on. Why would I want to go metric at this point in my life? What happens to all of my tools that are imperial measurement! What happens to all of my measuring devices? Not to mention that I am a Bricklayer/Stonemason by trade and deal in fractions of an inch constantly. I love buying tools as much if not more than the next guy but I have no plans to just chuck all of my tools and replace them with metric standard tools.

[Kent Adams]

Kent, it's not a matter of learning to use metric measurements, and I don't deny that it's an easier system however, I have a lifetime of imperial tools that I am deeply entrenched into: hundreds and hundreds of drill bits, hundreds of router bits (1/4" and 1/2" shank), 25 maybe 30 tape measures, 15-20 folding rules, a half dozen stainless steel rulers of various lengths, too many saw blades to count most 5/8" arbor and the list goes on and on. Why would I want to go metric at this point in my life? What happens to all of my tools that are imperial measurement! What happens to all of my measuring devices? Not to mention that I am a Bricklayer/Stonemason by trade and deal in fractions of an inch constantly. I love buying tools as much if not more than the next guy but I have no plans to just chuck all of my tools and replace them with metric standard tools.

You make a good point. It does make it easier if your tools are already metric. Most of mine are imperial, but I do have some in metric which makes it easier to convert. I don't see any reason for you to convert to metric if imperial is working for you. BTW, you mentioned that you were surprised, or something like that, about the lack of a more comprehensive dust collection on the track saw. Did you put on the "viewing window" part that comes with the saw? This helps with dust collection.

[Henry Kramer]

Did you put on the "viewing window" part that comes with the saw? This helps with dust collection.

Kent, is the viewing window better for dust collection than the splinter guard?

[Mike Cutler]

Well I received my Festool TS55/CT26 package last night. I had a few other projects to wrap up before I had a chance to try out the new stuff.

First impressions: The first hurdle I needed to get over was the Metric Scale indicating the blade depth. The saw did come with an overlay sticker with a U.S. measurement but it sure appeared cheap looking for such an expensive tool. I didn't put the sticker on because it reminds me of something that would be seen on a second rate Asian machine. Overall, the saw looks nice. A fair amount of plastic but that's not uncommon. I would say that it does not look as durable or hefty as a Skil Model 77 worm drive but it's also nowhere near as heavy.

I had some laminated spruce boards that I ripped first. The saw was hooked up to the CT26 vacuum/dust extractor. I have to say that I was not impressed with the ability of the dust extractor to keep the sawdust down. Was the sawdust less than using a Skil saw and a straightedge? Most certainly, however I expected close to no sawdust after all of the raving about track saws. I went back to the instruction booklet to see if I did something wrong and I didn't see anything.
In my opinion my table saw with the dust collector hooked up under the blade at the base of the saw and at the Shark Guard above the blade would have created less sawdust. It also would have been much easier to set the fence and rip the board on my table saw, of course I would have had to run the board through the jointer first to get a clean edge for ripping. That would have added another step but probably less than a minute time wise. I was impressed with the ability of the track to stay in place on the board without moving however the board was smooth and I suspect that ripping a rough cut board would have required clamping.

It's early in the testing process but so far I would score it:
Table Saw-1
Track saw-0

My next test will be to cut some plywood. I suspect that the track saw will prove handier on sheet goods.

Thank you,
Hank

Henry

You'll never get the quality of dust extraction from the circular saw that you can achieve on a table saw. It will just never happen, regardless of whomever manufactures the saw/system. It should be very minimal though, and if not, I agree, something isn't right.

I never payed much attention to the scale on the saw. Whether in Metric, or fractional, the depth of cut isn't the measurement I need. I need depth to bottom of gullet to know that the blade teeth are properly clearing the bottom of the board. For my TS75 that is a setting of 30mm for a 4/4 board. If I'm ripping an edge, or breaking down a rough cut piece of material, I set the saw on the edge of the material and push it down until the gullets are clear, then back up the depth setting from max.

You will need the clamps for unsurfaced, rough cut, lumber. My first project for my TS75, was breaking down a rough cut 2" thick padauk slab, that was 16'x3'. A very heavy piece of material.

I never knew there was a viewing window guard??? I guess I need to check into that.

I believe that you'll find it shines on cabinet ply. You're still going to get some dust, but if you make a ZCI cutting table out of blue foam board, I believe it may be more to meeting the expectations you're looking for.

Congrat's on your saw. I think once you give it a real go, you'll appreciate it. ( It will never replace a table saw or a jointer in my book though. )

[Henry Kramer]

Henry,

I never payed much attention to the scale on the saw. Whether in Metric, or fractional, the depth of cut isn't the measurement I need. I need depth to bottom of gullet to know that the blade teeth are properly clearing the bottom of the board. For my TS75 that is a setting of 30mm for a 4/4 board. If I'm ripping an edge, or breaking down a rough cut piece of material, I set the saw on the edge of the material and push it down until the gullets are clear, then back up the depth setting from max.

Mike,
I use the same method for setting the depth. I rarely use any depth gauge scale on any of my tools/machinery. I feel much safer (as far as making mistakes) physically measuring. I love my Whiteside brass bars for depth adjustment on the router. It just irritated me that the metric scale is prominent, big and bold on the TS55. Maybe it shouldn't but it does.
Hank

[Tom Ewell]

While I still think in feet/inches I don't find it particularly cumbersome to use metric.
The only beef I have with metric is having to have two sets of tools to work on my cars/truck/machines. SAE and metric can both be on some of them.

When I first got my TS55-EQ(older version, scale is not as 'big and bold') an imperial sticker was not available, don't know if I'd use one now anyway... I've adapted pretty well at associating depth of cut with the numbers on the scale and the only time I double check is when I'm cutting on the MFT.
Festool blades, sandpapers, scales are all metric nomenclature, think they all drive on the wrong side of the road over there too.

[Henry Kramer]

While I still think in feet/inches I don't find it particularly cumbersome to use metric.
The only beef I have with metric is having to have two sets of tools to work on my cars/truck/machines. SAE and metric can both be on some of them.

Festool blades, sandpapers, scales are all metric nomenclature, think they all drive on the wrong side of the road over there too.

Actually Tom, they drive on the right side of the road in Germany. I have no problem at all with German tools. I prefer them over Asian tools any day of the week. I just thought that the Festool depth scale should come with an imperial measurement on the saws that they sell here, and provide the metric sticker for those that would rather display metric.

I'm with you on the metric wrenches. As cars used more and more metric nuts and bolts I had to acquire so many more tools that I needed another rolling tool box. I won't be doing that with my woodworking tools (I hope).

[Brian Holcombe]

Where the tracksaw really shines is in breaking down sheet goods or putting a rough cut on a live edge board. I dont find them to be super accurate by any means, but usually quite fine for those two scenarios.

[Jim Dwight]

Personally, I would put the imperial scale on it and try and offset it so it reads dimensions below the track. I set my table saw with wooden blocks I made for setting the fence on my Skil biscuit jointer. But I like setting the stop of the track saw without having to push it down.

I believe the DeWalt clamps for the track are more useful than the Festool. I use them sometimes even on plywood even though I don't really need to. They are one handed quick clamps. They won't exert a whole lot of force but they are plenty to hold the track in place.