Picked up this woodie and looking for info

[bob blakeborough]

Hey all!

Lately I have been becoming more interested in wooden planes and learning how to use them, but other than H&R's I haven't bit on buying any yet. Well I found this guy for sale for $15.00 CDN (like $12 USD) online. It felt like a no-brainer so I bought it. I have a few questions about it and I know there are a lot of wooden plane fanatics here (Hello, Mr. Dillinger?) who can probably help...

NY1.jpgNY2.jpgNY3.jpgNY4.jpg


First is the plane itself says it is a "New York Tool Co 12", but the iron says Estab'd 1823, Ohio Tool Co, Thistle Brand, High Grade Steel, Auburn NY USA. Is it possible that this is the original iron even with that difference or is it a substituted iron?

Also, the plane iron itself seems to have a fairly distinct line across the width a bit up from the cutting edge. Does this look like it would be a laminated blade?

NY5.jpg

Overall it seems to be in excellent shape. Being just a hair under 16 inches long I am assuming this is more of a jack plane. Is there anything I should do to it before I sharpen up the iron and just give it a whirl? This is going to be a dumb question, but I am assuming you treat the blade and cap iron just as you would any modern BD plane?

Lastly, anyone have any real history and probable age of what I have here?

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Bob

[Warren Mickley]

The Auburn Tool Company merged with Ohio Tool Co. in 1893. I think your iron would date from late 19th century to early 20th century and the plane looks to be that era as well. Auburn Tool sometimes used the name New York tool Co. It sounds like three companies, but is probably just one. I think the 1823 refers to the origin of the Ohio Tool Co.

Your iron is laminated. You can probably locate the weld line on the back of the iron as well, up near the hole. Often this line is a bit more irregular. I think you have a fine beech double iron jack plane.

I recommend sharpening and getting the plane working before making any other adjustments. That way your adjustments will be based on the actual performance of the plane rather than going through someone's check list blindly.

For working on the sole, I use straightedge, winding sticks, and smoothing plane, and just plane the high spots. The problems you notice when planing should jibe with the irregularities you observe with the straightedge and winding sticks, otherwise I would hold off. The sole does not have to be square to the sides.

[Bill White]

Yep! The iron is laminated. Sharpen and tune chip breaker just as ya would on any BD plane.
Get a light hammer for adjusting the iron. I use a wooden mallet rather than a metal hammer when tapping the body of the plane. I just don't like the strike marks of the wood body. Make sure that the wedge is in full contact with the iron and abutments.

Check out David Weaver's You Tube vids as he builds and adjust a woodie. Very good, no nonsense info.
Bill

[bob blakeborough]

Thanks for the info guys! I will look for those videos for sure...

[don wilwol]

I have a little Ohio Tools info put together http://www.timetestedtools.com/ohio-tools-planes.html

[James Mittlefehldt]

I have a little Ohio Tools info put together http://www.timetestedtools.com/ohio-tools-planes.html

Thanks for that information Don I have a few Ohio Tool planes and like them though one needs some work.

[Archie England]

I've accumulated a few like yours--one works superb, meaning that it will take fine shavings; the other, works well as a Jack/scrub, taking much thicker shavings. These can be very good planes. As I tune up more transitional planes, I'm discovering how good wood is

[Zach Dillinger]

+1 to everything Mr. Mickley stated above. I am in total agreement with his post.