qswo

[Tom Krueger]

Hi. Sorry, I know this has been beat to death over the years, but I'm looking for a finish to get the old craftsman period look on qswo. I want the medium brown color with the ray flecks subdued instead of "popped". (Fuming is out) Please somebody HELP, everything I have found is how to accent the grain.

[Mike Gresham]

I just did some test panels using one of Jeff Jewitt's procedures (Fayetteville I believe). It didn't seem to pop the fleck, but I imagine degree of pop is a subjective thing. If you talk to Jeff, he might be able to give you some hints. In the end though, you will have to do test panels to get what you want.

If you want to subdue the fleck to get rid of it, why not select QSWO with little or no fleck?

[John TenEyck]

Besides what Mike said, the rays will be less pronounced if you do NOT sand after dying. The rays are harder than the background. If you sand the dye gets removed from them first. So, don't sand until after the sealer or one or two finish coats have been applied.

John

[scott vroom]

I've used potassium dichromate to chemically stain QSWO with good results. PD oxidizes the tannin, giving it a medium dark brown instantly-aged look. I finish with 4 wiped on coats of Arm-R-Seal.

[Tom Krueger]

Scott that's the color I'm going for. I want the ray flecks to show just not be real vivid. (Those tables are very nice by the way). Could you tell me where to get pd?

[Kent A Bathurst]

Not trying to be a wise guy, but the rays are a main reason people use QS. WHy not plainsawn?

[scott vroom]

Tom, I get my PD here: https://www.shellac.net/index.html

Scroll down to "chemical staining" on the left. It doesn't take much....I used a rounded 1/2 teaspoon per 16 oz of water. More will darken, less will lighten. You can experiment to find the right mixture.

PD is an oxidizing agent and should be handled carefully. I wear long rubber gloves, a 3M half mask vapor respirator, and eye protection. Here's how I use it:

1. final sand to 220
2. sponge on clean water to pre-raise grain
3. sand lightly with 400 to remove the fuzz
4. set the piece on a protective membrane (I use 6 mil visqueen beneath a small cotton tarp)
4. apply PD with a small sponge or a folded sheet of shop towel. Keep working it until all areas have a uniform finish (the oxidation is immediate, you'll notice that if takes a few minutes for the entire surface to equalize).

I have a well ventilated shop, with the exhaust fan running on high. The air movement will dry the piece quickly.

Because I pre-raise the grain with water, I don't need to sand after applying the PD. After the piece is thoroughly dry, I begin applying the Arm-R-Seal. I apply 2 coats of arm-r-seal before sanding. NEVER SAND PD TREATED UNFINISHED WOOD AS THE DUST WILL CARRY THE CHEMICAL! If you find it necessary to sand treated unfinished wood, wear a good vapor respirator and have plenty of shop ventilation. PD is safe to use with common sense handling precautions.