Jointer Setup - Reality Check

[Joel Turner]

After putting it off for a while, I decided to begin tuning up my jointer (a used Ridgid 6") today per the WoodWhisperer's video. Since I don't have a parallelogram jointer, I referenced off the infeed table and took my measurements on the outfeed table using a Vertias 50 inch ruler. My first measurements showed a .006 difference between the front of the table to the end and a .003 thousand difference between the front of the table and the back of the table near the cutter head. So essentially the front of the table was higher than the back and there was a slight twist in the front. Per Roland Johnson's article in Fine Woodworking, issue 230, I decided I would start first with just loosing the gib on both tables and retighten. To my surprise, after rechecking with the feeler gauges, the tables were coplanar. When I checked the front and back measurements again, I wan unable to get the .001 thousand feeler gauge under. I checked both infeed and outfeed front and back, and could not get the feeler gauge underneath. I did learn that my outfeed table is not completely flat. There is a .002 thousand dip in the middle that I believe is considered within tolerance. I don't plan to worry about it.


As a relatively new woodworker with little experience setting up machines, I'm struggling to believe that it ended up being that simple. I'm doubting my technique. In particular, I have a OneWay Multi Gauge that I used to first establish that the infeed table and outfeed table were at the same height. I zeroed the dial on the infeed, set the plunger on the outfeed table, and raised the infeed table until the dial hit zero. I then used the ruler and checked as I outlined above.


I'd appreciate any feedback on my technique.

[Andrew Hughes]

Sounds good to me,final test is to face and edged joint two boards.If the joint is tight no gaps then snap your ready. Couple long pieces of maple are the ultimate test any gaps will be easy to see.

[Victor Robinson]

Sometimes with machine setup, ya just get lucky.

[Joel Turner]

Thanks Andrew and Victor.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Run some stock and check it.

The reality is wood is a dynamic material. When you cut it you can release stored tension and it can move. That's why splitters and riving knives are so important on table saws. Changes in humidity can cause it to expand and contract.

1/128th of an inch is over 0.007".....1/256 of an inch is over 0.003".......wood can move that much with changes in humidity.

The jointer is one of the most basic woodworking tools. If it will produce flat surfaces and square sides to each other....I am happy.

[Robert Engel]

I've never check mine in 15 years.
I don't worry about anything but the fence being square.
If there's a problem with my tables, its never been enough to make a noticeable diff.

[Myk Rian]

As a relatively new woodworker with little experience setting up machines, I'm struggling to believe that it ended up being that simple. I'm doubting my technique.

That's all it takes in some cases. Sometimes you need to shim the gibs with .001 or thinner shims.

[glenn bradley]

You are right to check your jointer for calibration. A lot of head-scratching later on in a project can be traced back to bad tool alignment somewhere in the process.

Glad you had such a simple time of it. Unless something is damaged/incorrect on a machine, most alignments are pretty straight forward. It is in correcting "something wrong" that some machines prove themselves better designed than others.

Congrats!

[Dave Cullen]

I got lucky when I checked my jointer too. It's an old AMT Taiwanese 6" and the gibs aren't adjustable. But the tables only measured 1/2 thou off, so no sweat.

The Woodwhisperer's video on that is superbly done IMO.