What's the best tool for this task - a spokeshave or a rasp?

[Alan Lightstone]

I have some legs for a deck chair (Replica of the Titanic Deck Chairs) that have been roughed out on a bandsaw. I'm wondering what will be the best tool for refining the curves, a spokeshave, or a rasp.

I really don't have experience with either. I'm not adverse to purchasing some rasps if that is the correct tool. I already have curved spokeshaves, but have actually never used them on a project.

Titanic Deck Chair Legs - Roughed out.jpg

[Shawn Pixley]

I think it is your choice. Me, I'd try the spokeshave unless the grain objected.

[bridger berdel]

Since you already have spokeshaves. Go ahead and try them out, perhaps on your offcuts. If it works out on those boards, which seems likely, it will probably leave a nicer surface than a rasp.

[Jim Ritter]

I'd use a spokeshave. But I have many with different sole profiles and use them a lot. Hold the tool slightly skewed to start so you can cut the bandsaw ridges evenly without following them up and down.
jim

[Jim Koepke]

Practicing a bit on scraps is sure to help.

Cutting on slightly skewed helps especially on the corners or where the grain dips. Sliding the shave to the side can also help.

A lot of different motions to learn with a shave.

jtk

[Reinis Kanders]

Spokeshave is definitely more fun.

[Archie England]

IMO, the answer lies in what type or types of spokeshaves and rasps. I have Miller Falls cigar shave that works quite well, but it would take forever to remove any meaty sections. OTOH, having a 51,53, and LN Bogg would allow me to hog and refine with ease. Rasps work (and, I've accumulated several different ones), but for me take more effort than using my spokeshaves.

[Prashun Patel]

It's unlikely that a single spokeshave will do all parts of that arm. It will be tough to get right under that hand grip. Also, curved spokeshaves aren't optimal for convex curves.

I typically use both.

Also, on convex curves, consider a small block plane if you have one. On gradual, convex curves, it's the best at fairing the curve perfectly.


If you do purchase a rasp, pay for a good one. If you can have only one, consider the Stew Mac dragon rasp. They make a 10" long coarse that is flat on one side and convexly radiused on the other. It also tapers to a point. These things make it versatile in a variety of situations.

[Patrick McCarthy]

Alan, I think you will want both, and maybe several of each . . . . .
I have been doing a Maloof rocking chair for the past several months and had not previously used a spokeshave, but now
it is one of my favorite tools. On this project I learned to used rasps and am loving them too, but it is a learning process with the different grains.

On the rockers, i did all of the shaping with spokeshaves, mostly a LV flat sole which did just fine since the curves were long and flowing. On the back splat spindles, cut to shape on bandsaw, I did all the rounding and reducing in diameter (can't think of proper term) with the same flat spokeshave. Loved using it, but also managed to convince myself (yeah, easy to do) that I should have a round bottom one, so sent Rob Lee more $$, and then, not wanting to play favorites, sent Tom and Deneb $$ for a small bronze round bottom and a flat Boggs. Biggest difference is advancing/reducing blade depth; using a plane hammer to set the blade depth on the LN is a skill, which takes a deft touch and a bit of patience, but we want to be craftsmen, so . . . . . On the other hand the LV double adjuster is easier to dial in, kinda. I qualify that because although the LV is my "go to" for most stuff, for finish surface I can get gossimer thin shavings from the LN Boggs.
The round bottom shaves are trickier to use successfully, at least for me. Best to concentrate on keeping leading reference edge on the wood.
Love my rasps too, but you will "need" several.
You can rough shape ( hog off) with a rasp (6,8, or 9) then smooth with an 11 , 14 or go to spokeshave for a plane finished surface.

Good luck on the chairs. Patrick

[john zulu]

For the waste I will cross cut it then chisel it out. After that I will use the draw knife. You will be surprise how much material can remove quickly. Finally use the spokeshave for a finishing touch.

[Patrick McCarthy]

For the waste I will cross cut it then chisel it out. After that I will use the draw knife. You will be surprise how much material can remove quickly. Finally use the spokeshave for a finishing touch.

John, I think he was showing before and after pictures re roughing out on the bandsaw: " . . . that have been roughed out on a bandsaw. I'm wondering what will be the best tool for refining the curves . . . . . ".

[paul cottingham]

Drawknife, then spokeshave.

[Alan Lightstone]

Drawknife, then spokeshave.

I'm not familiar with a drawknife. What is that?

Also, for rasps (if I get some also), I was looking at the LN Auriou Cabinetmaker's rasps. Is there a better choice (I have oodles of both LV and LV planes, so I haven't drank the Kool-Aid on either one, except I tend to buy good tools - the cry once philosophy.

[Archie England]

Drawknife, then spokeshave.

+1



Google "drawknife"

It's a two handled straight or curved blade that is optimized for hand use, wet or dry wood. Best used with pull stroke toward the chest, either bevel up or down. this tool is fantastic for hogging wet wood, bark, or rough shaping.

[paul cottingham]

A drawknife is a two handed tool used for shaping.
image.jpg

The Auriou rasps from LV are excellent, and the Logiers are a close second. You won't be disappointed.