New Blade for Craftsman 22124

[Bill Hughes]

Hi,
As a relatively new member,I've read alot about different TS blades. Can anyone here who has a CM 22124 give me any input as to a good blade for this saw ? I've read about the Woodworker II, some good things about a particular Ridgid , and Freud blades. I guess I'm looking for a nice clean cutting combination blade. Also, what is the ideal number of teeth for a blade for ths kind of saw, and use ? The one that came with the saw does seem to cut pretty nice, but with some slight circular markings visible.

Thanks, Bill

[Andrew Ault]

I have not tried a whole bunch of different blades. The first high quality blade I purchased (after my Craftsman blade years) was a Forrest Woodworker 2. It was difficult for me to spent the money on at the time and I have to say, I never regretted the purchase for a moment. I did not think that it could be that much better than other namebrand good quality blades. Having now used a few others I feel lucky that I bought the Forrest. After jointing a board, I cut the other edge and...boy if it isn't as good or better than the jointed side.

People generally like what they have. There may be other blades that are as good or better that this one, I've just had a good experience with mine. It's one of those tools that I really love...better than I hoped. Sort of like a Lie Neilsen plane or a Big Red Clamp. Just so good to use.

If just plain works well for what I use it for. For solid wood ripping and crosscutting I cannot imagine a better blade. It always cuts smoothly with minimal tearout and no scoring. The next time I get it sharpened I will probably buy a 2nd WW2 to use while it is gone off to Forrest.

It also cuts plywood and MDF pretty darn good. It's been great with every hardwood I've presented it with. For maple I need to raise the blade some and be smooth to prevent burning - that may be a characteristic of the blade, I don't know.

Made in the USA.

I have to say that Forrest's website is pretty ugly and kind of low tech. I imagine that they are out in the shop making blades and not dinkin' on the computer.

I have the narrow kerf 10" 40T blade. I use it with a stiffener. Now that I've got a 3HP motor in my TS I'd go with the 1/8" kerf if I was starting fresh, I guess, but the narrow kerf works perfectly for me and I'll stick with it.

Whatever blade you decide to get, I hope you get as good a use out of it that I've has with mine.

-Andy

[Vaughn McMillan]

Since Andrew posted an endorsement for the Forrest blade, I thought I'd toss in a plug for the Freud blades. I have the Freud "Industrial" 40T combo thin kerf blade, and have been very happy with it (especially since it cost quite a bit less than some of the others I was looking at). I do a lot of narrow ripping (down to 1/8" thick), and consistently get a glueable edge directly from the saw. It's worked great on a wide variety of exotic and domestic hardwoods, plywood, MDF and particle board. It's even capable of cutting through a few staples and a piece of aluminum t-track with nary a hitch or chipped tooth. (DAMHIKT). I bought this blade when I was using a little Skil benchtop TS, and kept it when I moved up to the Ridgid TS3650. No complaints whatsoever.

I plan to buy another blade when the time comes to get the Freud sharpened. I haven't decided whether to go with the Forrest WII or just get another Freud. I don't think you can go wrong with either for your 22124.

- Vaughn

[scott spencer]

Hi Bill - A Forrest WWII 40T thin kerf is the best general purpose blade I've used on my 22124, but the stock Leitz blade is pretty decent too. Maybe it's more prudent to continue to use it until it dulls....you'll likely get a year or more out of it. You might get more use out of a decent dedicated ripping blade for heavy hardwoods as opposed to buying a blade that performs pretty much the same task as the Leitz blade...even though I suspect the WWII has the advantage. You can always grab the WWII later when necessary.

I've added a DeWalt DW7124TK 24T ripper to my 22124 for thick stuff and am really happy with it, and it helps save my general purpose blades from the bull work.
http://www.epinions.com/content_185638293124

[Andrew Ault]

Hi Vaughn,

It's good to hear about the Freud blade. Sounds like a great blade. I like the WW2, but I have no idea if it is the "best". It's hard to write about something I really like without sounding like I'm in love with the darn thing. It would be fun to try several blades, but I don't think Rockler will be letting customers do that anytime soon!

So far I've avoided metal with my TS, but I did plane several staples...got a couple of little ridges now on stuff I plane...until I need to sharpen them.

I don't really care about brands of tools that I have. I think that in the current market, there are many good choices. I try to buy quality and not feel like I want to "upgrade", so I check out reviews and comments on various alternative when I want or need something...or work around a problem and avoid more stuff to store. I also like to make my own tools and jigs. I'm making a mortising jig right now to avoid buying a mortiser (where would I put it?!).

I mostly enjoy the process of making things. My mom wants a vertical baking pan rack for her new kitchen and my dad and I are going to make it together - I seriously doubt we'll care about the brand of blade we use when we do it!

Let's make saw dust! ...And some super smooth and precise cuts.

-Andy

[Gary McKown]

Not a 22124, but even less (old 1-hp Craftsman). TK WWII works better than anything else I have tried, except possibly Freud rip blade for ripping. After 3 years of use (including blindly cutting some of that crappy HD Chinese plywood made, it seemed afterward, with sand-filled glue), it still seemed sharp but I sent it to Forrest for resharpening anyway. $20 later, and now I believe it cuts even better than when new.

I don't have any problem with the TK used without stiffeners, except possibly trimming less than a kerf width off a piece of thick hardwood (need to slow feed rate down to keep blade from tending to heel over).

Tip: if you will use stiffeners, put them on before making ZCIs.

[scott spencer]

...snip
Tip: if you will use stiffeners, put them on before making ZCIs.

...wish I didn't know what you mean!

[egon reske]

Can't comment on make of blade but would suggest that three blades may be the answere. The power of your saw may also come into question on the type/types of blades used.

One for rough cutting
Thin one for ripping
good combination blade

I'd mainly use the rough cutter and switch when a nice smooth cut is required.

Egon