Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: lasering pint glasses

  1. #1

    lasering pint glasses

    I do laser and sandblasting for glass and ran into a small issue. When you laser on pint glasses with a rotary I know you can raise one end to get it level however when you laser an image it still comes out distorted. Is there a way to fix this? It basically comes out long and I know its because the lower the glass the smaller the diameter. I can always resort to wash out photo resist but I am looking to speed it up with the laser. Thanks for the help!!

  2. #2
    I think you still will have issues with the resist, I find on circle logos I do that I have to stretch the sides a bit to give the "Illusion" of it being round.
    Since the laser is 2 dimensional and the glass has a three dimensional curve it "seems" like it compresses the image when looked straight on.
    Martin Boekers

    1 - Epilog Radius 25watt laser 1998
    1 - Epilog Legend EXT36 75watt laser 2005
    1 - Epilog Legend EXT36 75watt laser 2007
    1 - Epilog Fusion M2 32 120watt laser with camera 2015
    2 - Geo Knight K20S 16x20 Heat Press
    Geo Knight K Mug Press,
    Ricoh GX-7000 Dye Sub Printer
    Zerox Phaser 6360 Laser Printer
    numerous other tools and implements
    of distruction/distraction!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1,038
    You're doing some long artwork and hitting the taper of the glass I think you're describing, not much aside from buying a wider glass can be done, or using a glass that doesn't taper. You could try to warp the artwork to compensate in corel but that's likely going to take a lot of trial and error I would think.
    Trotec Speedy 400 120w, Trotec Speedy 300 80w
    Thunderlaser Mars-130 with EFR 130w tube
    Signature Rotary Engravers (2)
    Epson F6070 Large Format Printer, Geo Knight Air Heat Presses (2)

  4. #4
    Lasering glasses on small runs may be quicker but on a production run, if you're experienced, sandblasting should be much quicker.

    I have two easy solutions to your problem. Shrink the artwork and/or set the focus and set the diameter to whatever the diameter is on the glass at the midpoint of the graphic, give or take. That should help quite a bit. If neither of those solve the problem, you're going to have to warp the image. There are a bunch of posts about it from several years ago. You should be able to dig up the answers after about 10 minutes of searching.
    Equipment: IS400, IS6000, VLS 6.60, LS100, HP4550, Ricoh GX e3300n, Hotronix STX20
    Software: Adobe Suite & Gravostyle 5
    Business: Trophy, Awards and Engraving

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    1,843
    From Epilog (With a few tweaks from me): Divide the drive wheel/chuck side by the middle (engraving area) diameter and multiply by 100 for the % of adjustment. If < 100 : shrink artwork (only in 1 axis). If > 100 : expand artwork (only in 1 axis).
    Tim
    There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
    50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
    Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
    Epilog Mini 24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
    Ricoh SG3110DN
    - Liberty Laser LLC

  6. #6
    This is a Excel sheet that figures out the calculations of what the graphic distortion should be. I have only used it a couple of times but with vector files. I haven't used it with bitmaps. I would suspect that Corel lets you play with perspectives in 3D effects. PM me if you have any questions about the sheet. Let us know how it works with bitmaps. It works well with vectors.

    Hope this helps.

    Real Mercier
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Epilog Mini 24 - 45 W
    Roland PNC1000
    CorelDraw X3
    FlexiSign 7.6

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •