I did a pile of very similar panels in white oak last summer, minus the panel mold top and bottom. Absolutely elegant and gorgeous....and the largest pain in my rump in recent memory. we had to chisel the corners square, or rather equal from both edges, which a router does not create. Joy. I don't care for the style pictured but its very close to something I consider wonderful.
"A good miter set up is like yoga pants: it makes everyone's butts look good." Prashun Patel
They look better with a glaze. I think a lot of them went into spendy ski resort condos. Chiseling white oak does not sound like a fun day...
JR
I like the look. We did a historic house where all the doors and cabinets were like this. The house doors had a applied panel mould on the horizontals and there was a small v cut above the stopped chamfer also. We did everything on the shaper and used a router jig with the stile on a 45 slope to square off the chamfer using a v cutting bit. In the end we got fast at hand chisiling them square.
Joe
Interestingly, I just had a request for quote for this style:
JR
Try to talk then into a lip, it's not very fun when the angle goes straight to the face of the door. If it's paint grade, it's not as bad, but if it's stained that glue joint is going to look a mile wide. Especially if it's stained really dark
I should have a set of knives cut for that.
I work on a lot of old junk, err, historic homes, excuse me, slipped there......
Anyway..... It is not uncommon to see old handbuilt door/drawers with the bottom rail beveled, I imagine for just the reason that you mentioned. I have done that myself on shaker style cabinets.
I had to do a bunch with a reverse Ogee which a router cant do. They were larger, on columns, so I made a jig that had a 90 degree base that straddled the corner and ground a HSS router bit to cut it sideways. Worked really well. If you ever have to do it again I saved the jig but you probably get my drift anyway, you usually do.
Larry
That's Exactly what the boss wants although just an eased edge instead of a chamfer around the outside.
And that picture brings up an opportunity to ask about the top drawer rail width. I like the wider rails and stiles but also the 5 panel drawer fronts. Not a problem on the larger lower drawers but the shallower upper drawer ends up with a sliver for the middle panel. I see in that example they narrowed up the rails and kept the stiles the same width. I think in some mass production cabinets at the big box stores they make the stiles narrow also on the 5 panel drawers. But then the stiles don't match the door stile width.
to me that picture looks appropriate. To be honest I almost didn't notice the thin rails on the drawer front but I guess that is kind of the point right? But my question..... If I'm going to have all drawer lowers is there any reason not to have deeper top drawers? It wouldn't be standard and maybe that is a bad thing but I sure hate when I pull out the cooking utensil drawer and the tongs spring open and jam the drawer. Plus I could make the rails a little closer in width and still have some center panel.
Sounds like a "lambs tongue", those are beautiful. I'd love a pic of that jig if you ever have time, I scratched a few things trying to find an automated way to plow all those chamfers in an automated fashion, became faster to just make a chisel guide and do it. One room had 450 stopped chamfers. What I remember is that it hurt, and once installed the ones way up gave the optical illusion of being at different heights depending on perspective, the archifreak called it out, our man put some pretty precise measuring instruments on it to show him all the chamfers were in fact at the same height and angle....damndest thing, perfect on the bench, really looked off in the air when they occurred every 12"-14" apart. The lambs tongue columns sound great.
"A good miter set up is like yoga pants: it makes everyone's butts look good." Prashun Patel
We did some similar doors last summer, but subtly different. From the flat they took a 1/8" drop, then a roughly 30 degree chamfer, followed by an 1/8" drop to the panel. Its one of my favorite sticking profiles. I like the ones shown, do they have a drop to the panel from the chamfer? Seems really hard to deal with if they don't.
"A good miter set up is like yoga pants: it makes everyone's butts look good." Prashun Patel
No step/drop. I have an old set of Freeborn cutters that came out of Decortative Specialties, a big door plant in CA. They have about a 22.5 degree chamfer and are in Tantung. Last time I used them, I didn't have any issues, but this shallower bevel in the pic will leave more of a knife edge. Yes, should be "interesting" if they go for it.
JR