Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 35

Thread: Cleaning Hand Stitched Rasps

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Punta Gorda, FL
    Posts
    3,028

    Cleaning Hand Stitched Rasps

    I have two Auriou rasps I used to shape some Gabon ebony. Now many of the stitches are clogged with ebony. With most woods, I can tap the tool on the bench or take a stiff brush and that clears the waste out. But not with this wood. How do you clean out the stitches without clearing each one individually?
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    South central Kansas
    Posts
    290
    A little trick I learned working in a mechanic shop in high school was to take a spent bullet casing (if you happen to have any laying around...I guess that isn't normal for some people, though...) and pinch the end flat. It's like a little scraper. We'd use them to clean tough pieces of metal out of files so I don't see why it wouldn't work on a rasp. In lieu of a bullet case you could use a thin copper or brass pipe. Really anything softer than the steel of the rasp, and the softer the better probably.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,252
    Blog Entries
    7
    I use a hard bristle brush.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Mebane NC
    Posts
    1,014
    Not for routine cleaning but a pressure washer or old electric toothbrush. Think outside the neander toolbox.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Punta Gorda, FL
    Posts
    3,028
    No bullets lying around the house. Brushes don't work, even a brass brush didn't work, but I didn't work it too much for fear of ruining the cutting action.

    I was wondering if pitch cleaner would work and not ruin the metal. So far the only thing that's worked is the tip of an X-Acto knife. End even that takes some work to get all the waste out of the stitches. It's in there pretty good.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,252
    Blog Entries
    7
    A hog brush works ..I know because I use one and I've cut rosewoods and ebonies with my rasps.

    https://store-dd025.mybigcommerce.co...or-Riffler.pdf

    I have tried other brushes that did not work as well, try the hog bristle brush.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 07-06-2015 at 8:06 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Punta Gorda, FL
    Posts
    3,028
    I contacted Auriou and here's their response:

    Soak it in a light oil to expand the wood and gently brush with a natural brush (i.e not metal) and this should dislodge the embedden bits.

    As a general rule a light application of camelia oil or such like will help protect the rasps.

    I've been picking away with the tip of a pin. The wood is really in there. Before I got the response from Auriou I wetted a brush with mineral spirits and that removed some of the chips and made picking the most of the rest out easier but there are some places I can't clean out completely. I'll give the Auriou method a try...

    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,252
    Blog Entries
    7
    Julie,

    You might try a file card, but just to get out the really tough stuff, not on a regular basis. Do you clean your rasps after every use?
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    1,356
    I have had the same issue. with walnut. have wondered if what I see in there is walnut or rust.

    Guess its time to get out some of the terrific magnification stuff in the shop and look. I do like Michel's idea of soaking in light oil, then using a soft tooth brush.
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  10. #10
    One very helpful way of reducing or preventing bits of wood from sticking in the teeth is to use regular white chalk and rub it against the grain before each use. The little bit of chalk dust it leaves in each concave depression helps reduce the ability of the wood to stick in the holes. Afterwards just brush as usual immediately with a stiff bristle brush. I will remember the Auriou trick though for when I forget to chalk up.
    Dave Anderson

    Chester, NH

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Punta Gorda, FL
    Posts
    3,028
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Do you clean your rasps after every use?
    When I'm working, I give the rasp a light tap on the workbench and that cleans it up pretty well. Then after use I'll brush it off. But the ebony did a number on the rasps. Next time, I'll try the chalk method.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  12. #12
    Couldn't you just use a MAPP torch to burn the particles out?

    Richard

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Goleta / Santa Barbara
    Posts
    962
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Verwoest View Post
    Couldn't you just use a MAPP torch to burn the particles out?

    Richard
    in one of the shaving threads there was much discussion how hot water can negatively impact the sharpness of the razor's edge . . . . . . can't imagine the heat from any torch is going to be beneficial to the $$$ rasps . . . . I am not a metallurgist, but just sayin' . . . it doesn't seem like the most prudent of choices.

    That being said, let's try it on your hand stitched rasps first, as a test, of course.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    I am sure you know better than to use a torch on your rasp,Julie!!!!

    I'd like to advise you to not buy any expensive hand made rasps made I THINK in Chezscholovikia(SP?) from Luthier's Merchantile. Though they tout them as "lifetime" quality(maybe they meant for the lifetime of a house fly!),and price them high,the one I bought was not hardened AT ALL. I think I paid about $50.00,and it was only about 6" long and 3/4" wide. Actually for its size,more expensive than yours. I liked the tiny teeth,so I put it in my electric furnace and case hardened it myself,rather than send it back.

    I told them it was not hardened,but I'm sure they paid no attention. A pricey German made chisel from them was no great shakes either. I don't think anyone there knows anything about tool quality,or cares to learn.
    Last edited by george wilson; 07-06-2015 at 3:49 PM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,120
    Soak them in white vinegar.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •