Storing lumber

[Scott Brandstetter]

I am running out of space and need suggestions. My shop is approx 1000 sq feet and most of the space is dedicated to my tools. I do have one wall, that is approx 20 feet long where I have stored my rough lumber but I need more. The bottom 4 feet keep my sheet goods and above that, 5 feet, keep my current inventory of rough sawn lumber. Tonight I took in roughly 100 bf of maple, walnut and cherry. I am looking at bringing in more maple as well as several other species.

Is it possible to keep the wood on a rack in the outside or will the moisture just cause problems? I am gravitating toward keeping several types of lumber on hand so it keeps the trips to the sawmill at a minimum ( 1 hour each way). What do the rest of you do? Appreciate any thoughts.

[Allan Speers]

keeping lumber outside ca actually be beneficial. Some experts believe that large swings in humidity and temperature actually help lumber become more stable. Having read the data & associated articles, I believe that this is true.

However, you have protect it from ground moisture, not just rain, so make sure to put a tarp UNDER the stack.

You also have to protect from powder post beetles, so make sure to wrap netting all the way around it.



Sadly, I made both of these mistakes 10 years ago, and lost thousands of BF of rather expensive lumber. Just shoot me.

[Cody Colston]

You can certainly store your lumber outside as long as it is off the ground and covered. Just be aware that it will acclimate to around 12% moisture content. Before using it, you will need to bring it into the shop and let it acclimate there for a couple of weeks. A decent moisture meter would be a good idea for checking MC or at least a thermal hygrometer inside your shop to track temperature and RH. (you can then determine MC)

I basically have the same problem...too much lumber, not enough storage space. I saw my own lumber and keep it outside in stickered stacks covered with corrugated metal roofing. I also spray it with Timbor when stacking to keep the bugs out. When I need some for a project, it goes to the solar kiln to get the MC down to 7% - 8%. That can take from a couple of days to a couple of weeks, depending on the time of year and the weather.

You said you got your lumber from a sawmill. Is it kiln dried? If so, you can dead-stack the lumber and wrap it in plastic sheeting, taping the ends closed. That will stop moisture transfer, preserve the present MC and keep out the bugs.

[Danny Hamsley]

I agree with Cody. If the lumber is kiln dried, wrap it up tight with polyethylene plastic if you store it outside to slow down the absorption of water from the swings in humidity.

[Allan Speers]

Cody suggestion to spray with Timbor is very good.As long as you don't already have PPB's, Timbor will prevent them, but make sure to coat the entire surface of each board.

FWIW, from what I've read, it's still better to use Bora-Care on even uninfested wood. What has been written (I have no experience with this) is that over time, Timbor can cause a powdery film of borate crystals to form on the surface of your wood, and this can interfere with finishing. You can wash it off, but that's extra work. I would think that simply milling the lumber would also remove any powder, but folks that have used both products say they prefer Bora-Care.

Cody, have you ever had problems with such surface powder?

Timbor is much less expensive, and also much easier to make, so it may actually be the best solution. (pun intended.)

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I posted the formula for home-made Bora-Care a while back, but it was buried in a different thread so maybe folks didn't see it. I'k repost it now, plus the formula for Timbor. You can save a LOT by home-brewing it.

[Yonak Hawkins]

1000 sq.ft. is a good size shop. You can't rearrange your tools a bit to find space for lumber ?

My shop is about that size and I have had as many as four full stacks (40" X 8' -- 4000 bf.) of lumber and a large area for sheet goods and still had room for my machines.

I would try to find a place indoors if it were me.

[Cody Colston]

Cody, have you ever had problems with such surface powder?

So far I haven't seen that particular problem with Timbor. However, most of my wood used is Walnut and while only the undesireable sapwood is vulnerable to PPB's, I treat it when sawn with Timbor anyway...the entire board. It's not only a dark wood but it's mostly planed from 1" to 3/4".

BTW, I copied to file that boracare recipe you posted.

[Robert Engel]

Have you thought about vertical storage?
Its a great way to go for dried wood.

[Brian Tymchak]

Have you thought about vertical storage?
Its a great way to go for dried wood.

+1. I can suggest also that sheet goods can be stored vertical and might free up some wall space.

[Jebediah Eckert]

image.jpg

I dont know know if you have a set of stairs in the shop but this is what I did for extra lumber storage. I also have a bunch of horizontal storage as well on a lumber rack. On the project list is take the horizontal rack down and go vertical in the same location.

+1 on vertical for sure if have the ceiling height.

[John TenEyck]

I'm with Yonak. I have a shop that's around 1000 ft2 and have a at least a thousand BF of lumber in it, as well as a plywood rack. It's crowded, to be sure, but it's dry and will stay dry. Equally important, I can use it whenever I want because it's always in equilibrium with my shop. If I had to store it outdoors, I would want it to be under a shed roof, as a minimum. I have used my garage as a short term solution to store lumber for a large project.
John

[Jim Andrew]

Will spraying with timbor do anything for ash borers?

[Yonak Hawkins]

I'm open to being corrected but, I believe ash borers are only a problem to live trees.