New Table Saw - Assembly Questions

[Tom Burgess]

Tom, why not post your location and put out a call for local Creeker's to help you assemble it? It's only an hour or so of work.

Thanks, Jeff. That sounds like "The WISE Approach", but I'm going to push ahead on my own for a couple of reasons:

1) I'm kinda stupid.

2) I've given myself today as the deadline for having this saw functional.

3) SawmillCreek requires me to post under my real name, and while I have no concerns about SMC members, anyone can read these forums and then "stop by" to relieve me of my tools when I'm not at home. I'm reluctant to mention my location on any forum, but especially on a forum where my name can be combined with even my general location. A local guy had his entire commercial shop stolen by thieves who rolled up in a truck one night and left with nearly every bit of capital equipment. So I take security seriously.

Here's my rigging, so far. I think it'll work well because the cabinet+trunnion+motor is heavy, but not ridiculously heavy. 'Probably weighs 250 to 300 pounds, and the if all goes well, it'll be suspended for only a minute or two (fingers crossed, and unbroken so far). If this looks like Disaster Waiting to Happen, somebody tell me now...

[John Donofrio]

Tom,

If I'm seeing this correctly one thing that concerns me is where you have the hook on the pipe. If the COG of the base assembly is not in the same vertical plane the whole thing could shift once lifted. While it might not be catastrophic, it could damage the cabinet or worse yet, damage you. You need to secure that attachment point (keep from sliding) or better yet attach from multiple points near the perimeter of the base.

Also, C clamps on a round pipe may not be very secure once under load unless the lower jaws of those clamps is a V to capture the pipe.

[Matt Day]

I think Jeff meant posting your city and asking for local creekers to help, not your exact address or GPS coordinates.

Regarding the saw, I grabbed an extension wing for leverage and tilted the saw on one side, slid the base under, and rocked the saw on.

[william watts]

Looks like you are attached to the flanges that hold the table and trunnions in position if the flanges are bent during the left it will cause trouble with alignment. If the c/g of the saw is not centered during the lift the saw will tilt causing more stress on one side. That's the same reason you hear the precaution to "never lift a saw by its table".

[Tom Burgess]

Tom,

If I'm seeing this correctly one thing that concerns me is where you have the hook on the pipe. If the COG of the base assembly is not in the same vertical plane the whole thing could shift once lifted. While it might not be catastrophic, it could damage the cabinet or worse yet, damage you. You need to secure that attachment point (keep from sliding) or better yet attach from multiple points near the perimeter of the base.

Also, C clamps on a round pipe may not be very secure once under load unless the lower jaws of those clamps is a V to capture the pipe.

Thanks for your comments and concerns, John. I think the photograph may be playing "optical tricks" (as is often the case).

Actually, I went ahead with the lift as pictured and it worked just fine. No stress and no "incidents". I studied the cabinet guts prior to designing my Zoot Capri rigging and made educated guesses about the motor's location and how much it weighs, and the same for the tilt/elevation arbor hardware. I figured dat big ol' motor is shifted off to the left, so my lifting hook should shift left to compensate. And the weight of the arbor mechanics seemed shifted forward a bit, so I shifted my fancy black pipe forward to compensate. The cabinet lifted almost dead level . When setting it into the mobile base, one corner touched down - then I turned the cabinet slightly and lowered the rest of the way. No problems at all.

If you need to move heavy machinery (even once) do yourself a favor and buy a Harbor Freight chain hoist. I bought my one-ton (or half ton?) lift several years ago for setting up and placing a small milling machine. I got it on sale for $69, I think, and man(!) does it make chores like this easy. Everything can be made to happen in slow motion, and STOP motion, too. The gear reduction makes hundreds of pounds lift and lower like ten pounds. Ultimate control.

As for the C-clamps, they were not clamping the pipe. I tightened the clamps on the 2x3s to limit movement of the black pipe - keeping it from sliding around / changing position relative to the two 2x3s. That worked as planned, too.

Despite my success, all the breakable parts of my body (and the saw) appreciate you voicing helpful concerns and suggestions.

[Tom Burgess]

I think Jeff meant posting your city and asking for local creekers to help, not your exact address or GPS coordinates.

I live where there aren't so many people. My general whereabouts combined with my first and last names could bring trouble right to my front door. Take heed.

Regarding the saw, I grabbed an extension wing for leverage and tilted the saw on one side, slid the base under, and rocked the saw on.

Yer probably braver, smarter and/or stronger than I am. My 'modifications' raised the mobile base a LOT (more than I like, actually) so I don't think I could have done what you did. I'll live with the base as is until I relocate (soon I hope). And my 6-wheeled configuration doesn't steer well, either. Like navigating a tiny harbor in an ocean liner. It'll do for now.

[Tom Burgess]

Looks like you are attached to the flanges that hold the table and trunnions in position if the flanges are bent during the left it will cause trouble with alignment. If the c/g of the saw is not centered during the lift the saw will tilt causing more stress on one side. That's the same reason you hear the precaution to "never lift a saw by its table".

I hear you, Bill. Good points, but the chain hoist made everything so smooth and controlled that the lifting and lowering were absolutely no-strain and no-impact. No damage done.

[Tom Burgess]

Why I'll ASSEMBLE IMMEDIATELY from now on...ugh

So far, the triple pulley that transmits power to the arbor is surprisingly rusted, though no part of this saw has ever gotten wet. Weird.

The table insert is a joke. It's a rough casting that is far from flat. No matter how I adjust the four leveling screws, it won't run true to the table surface. See attached photo for the extent to which the right-front corner must be lowered in order to stop the part from rocking - and I need to lower it a bit further than this. Sux.

Are there 3rd-party table inserts I can buy to fit a 10-year-old Unisaw? The 'Deltoid' said my only option is to buy a Delta replacement. Forget that...

Most of the castings look terrible; I've seen far better on Griz products. The Delta "customer service" rep (and I use the term loosely) says Delta saws like mine (2005 vintage) were made entirely in the USA. I don't think so. He says Delta began manufacturing in China in 2013. I think that's wrong. Maybe the began assembling in China in 2013, but I'm 98% sure these 2005 castings are fugly Chinese Crap.

[cody michael]

I made my a insert out of plywood, pretty easy and worked well... you can also use plastic

[John Donofrio]

I made my a insert out of plywood, pretty easy and worked well... you can also use plastic

This. BB works best IMO.

[Bruce Page]

Google left tilt Unisaw throat plate. Several places sell them.

Here's one: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/z...roatplate.aspx

[Tom Burgess]

I made my a insert out of plywood, pretty easy and worked well... you can also use plastic

This. BB works best IMO.

Thanks, Cody and John ==
BB = Baltic Birch, yes?. No gots, but I'm sure I have something laying around. What about adjustment screws. Are you guys installing small threaded inserts? Or T-nuts? Or something more exotic that I don't know about...?

Or no adjustment at all?

Google left tilt Unisaw throat plate. Several places sell them.
Here's one: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/z...roatplate.aspx

I'm not familiar with the term 'throat plate'. Knowing that will help me search online. Thanks, Bruce, and thanks for the link. I don't see my saw model listed at that link (model 36-L31X), but as you mentioned, the DL-1U is supposed to fit "Delta: Unisaw"... The Customer Service Deltoid said that all late-model Unisaws are entirely different from mine. Hmm. Too late to talk with Highland Woodworking today, but will call tomorrow.

I copied the following from your post:
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder." -- Steven Wright
My brake master cylinder is failing, so when I see the mechanic I'll make "the horn suggestion", and will try to look very serious about it. HA! He'll like that.

[Charles Taylor]

Thanks, Cody and John ==
BB = Baltic Birch, yes?. No gots, but I'm sure I have something laying around. What about adjustment screws. Are you guys installing small threaded inserts? Or T-nuts? Or something more exotic that I don't know about...?

Or no adjustment at all?

Short wood screws are what I usually have handy when I make a throat plate, so I drill, countersink, and install them on the underside. Others use set screws so they can adjust them from above, which is more convenient.

I'm not familiar with the term 'throat plate'. Knowing that will help me search online. Thanks, Bruce, and thanks for the link. I don't see my saw model listed at that link (model 36-L31X), but as you mentioned, the DK-1U is supposed to fit "Delta: Unisaw"... But HEY! The Customer Service Deltoid said that all late-model Unisaws are entirely different from mine. Gee, do ya think he could be mistaken (or even...lying)? Too late to talk with Highland Woodworking today, but will call tomorrow.

DL-6 and DL-7 are for the "late model" Unisaws. DL-1U is for yours and mine (an older right-tilt).

[Tom Burgess]

When I bought this saw package, I was buying "50 inches of rip capacity to the right".

Even though the instructions don't seem to indicate it, I think maybe I need to remove the right-hand cast iron table extension.

As things stand, the overall width of the three cast iron tops plus the laminated Biesemeyer U50 table extension is a whopping 84-1/4 inches. The whole rig seems awfully LONG. The Biesemeyer extension table is 44" from left to right. I'm using the Delta Unifence (not the Bies) and that extruded aluminum fence rail measures 81-1/4".

I'm not pleased with several aspects of this saw package. It was sold to me as a unified, integrated tool, but clearly there are four separate products combined (loosely) to form this configuration. For example, look carefully at the picture to see that the feet of the extension table's support legs would not come anywhere close to resting on the Delta mobile base's narrow extension frame. In fact, if not for my cheesy wooden outriggers (for casters), I would have to mount the two gray Biesemeyer support legs way, way IN from the front and rear edges of the support table - and that would render the table unstable for cutting sheet goods.

When I bought this saw there had been a lot of talk about Delta quality taking a dive. Clearly Delta earned that reputation, but by the time I get through, I'm sure this thing'll be Shmoove as Glass.

So do I need to remove the right-hand cast iron table wing and instead attach the laminated extension directly to the main table? Duuuhhhh

[Tom Burgess]

Short wood screws are what I usually have handy when I make a throat plate, so I drill, countersink, and install them on the underside. Others use set screws so they can adjust them from above, which is more convenient.

Thanks, Chuck. Adjusting the "throat plate" (my expanding vocabulary) from above is a lot easier, but needs doing only once, so wood screws from underneath will work. On the other hand, If using set screws from above, does that require a threaded insert for each screw?

DL-6 and DL-7 are for the "late model" Unisaws. DL-1U is for yours and mine (an older right-tilt).

Very helpful. Thanks. My saw tilts LEFT. I'll double check will Highland Woodworking tomorrow.