Banjo Nirvana........G0766

[Matt Schrum]

Could those people who are converting their banjos comment on whether they just had a washer on the clamp bolt or had a bracket that looks like the one in the parts diagram?

My banjo does not look like the parts diagram, it looks just like your pictures. That big machined washer that keeps the eccentric nut thing in check should have both shoulders below the edges of the casting. Ones the bar is in place with the retaining rings on, that big washer doesn't seem to get cocked as in your picture-- at least on my banjo.

[David C. Roseman]

I'm not sure if I'm missing a part or not. Since I got the G0766, I've occasionally had problems with the banjo, especially if I moved the banjo too far in. It would get stuck and I'd have to take off the bolt on the bottom. I'd find the machined washer "cocked" sideways and stuck. When I look at the parts diagram, it shows bracket 061, whose purpose (at least partially) appears to capture the eccentric bushing and keep it aligned with the clamp bolt. All I have is part 59 and 60 (clamp bolt and eccentric bushing). There really is nothing to keep the bushing from sliding out of the clamp bolt.

I am wondering if someone just forgot a part, if everyone has the same setup as I do or what? Could those people who are converting their banjos comment on whether they just had a washer on the clamp bolt or had a bracket that looks like the one in the parts diagram?

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Brice, I don't recognize the bracket marked as ref. 61 in the parts diagram that you show in your post. The diagram is evidently from your hard copy of the manual, but compare it to the corresponding diagram of the online parts list on Grizzly's website here: http://cdn2.grizzly.com/partslists/g0766_pl.pdf

In the online diagram, ref. 61 is a flange washer like the one that shows in your photograph. That is what is on my G0766 original banjo (and on the identical banjo on my G0733), so I don't think you're missing a part.

My replacement banjo hasn't arrived yet. Perhaps tomorrow.

[hu lowery]

Brice,

Same here, I have the stepped washer type part in my 766. Looks to be simpler to make than the other one and maybe even less prone to failure. Probably both cast so that might be the difference between a chicken egg and a duck egg.

Scratching my head about how yours can get out of place. The smaller diameter step fits in the banjo keeping the piece centered so it isn't possible for it to get out of place enough for one side to drop down, in theory anyway.

I have intended to buy two more lock nuts for my headstock and tailstock, until then I put the lock nut on my banjo and I keep it fairly snug. Do you have a lock nut securing the banjo to the lathe bed? If not perhaps the nut is vibrating loose enough that the two step washer thing is raising up enough to get sideways. The other option is that it could be the wrong one. The other other option could be the opening in the bottom of your banjo is too large, hopefully remedied by the new banjo but they aren't likely to replace your old casting twice if you need another!

Don't know, just some thoughts. Maybe if nothing else they give you some ideas.

Hu

[Brice Rogers]

My banjo does not look like the parts diagram, it looks just like your pictures. That big machined washer that keeps the eccentric nut thing in check should have both shoulders below the edges of the casting. Ones the bar is in place with the retaining rings on, that big washer doesn't seem to get cocked as in your picture-- at least on my banjo.

On one end of my banjo, the width of the opening in the casting is wider than the diagonal on the shoulder washer, so there isn't anything to keep it from tilting and getting stuck. In fact, at that one point (where the tool rest is real close to centerline), there is enough space for the shoulder washer to be cocked sideways and have 0.025 of extra clearance. Right now, on the advice of others, I have put in a thin hand-cut polyethylene washer to keep their shoulder from sliding below overly wide lip.
I'm a bit surprised that the eccentric sleeve doesn't slide out of the locking nut.

[Brice Rogers]

Brice, I don't recognize the bracket marked as ref. 61 in the parts diagram that you show in your post. The diagram is evidently from your hard copy of the manual, but compare it to the corresponding diagram of the online parts list on Grizzly's website here: http://cdn2.grizzly.com/partslists/g0766_pl.pdf

In the online diagram, ref. 61 is a flange washer like the one that shows in your photograph. That is what is on my G0766 original banjo (and on the identical banjo on my G0733), so I don't think you're missing a part.

My replacement banjo hasn't arrived yet. Perhaps tomorrow.

Thanks David for your response. I double checked the on-line documentation after reading your comment and came across an interesting anomaly - - The manual and the parts list shows the flange washer as we both have. But I just learned that if I click on the link to Buying parts, it shows a different version of part 61. So, there is a discrepancy in their documentation.

I currently can't figure out what keeps the eccentric sleeve centered in the tightening bolt. A flange with ears (as is only shown on the Buy parts diagram) would make sense. I wonder why there are two versions of this diagram and whether there is a value to a part with the ears or whether some one cost-reduced the assembly.

Thanks again for your feedback.

[Brice Rogers]

My banjo casting must be out of spec and is too wide inside. So your comment that the bottom of my banjo is too large is correct. The shoulder washer kind of flops around in there and in one location, if it wanted to go sideways, it could do it with an extra 0.025 space to spare. As you might have seen from the pictures I posted, I can actually remove the stepped washer with my fingers and no tools. At the other end of the banjo, the width of the casting inside is narrower and it isn't possible for the shoulder washer to flop sideways.

Yes, I do have a Nyloc type of nut on the banjo. I noticed that the tailstock and headstock do not have the locking nut. Perhaps they were able to save an extra 5 cents by using a standard nut. Also, the headstock should always be locked in place when there would be any vibration. That's probably why the headstock and tailstock nuts didn't rattle loose during shipment as seven other bolts on my lathe did (like 5 of them holding the motor).

Thanks for your feedback.

[Dennis Collier]

Just installed my new banjo and Im having the same problem as Brice. The part that Grizzly is calling a "support bracket" is too small for the new banjo. The larger diameter of the step will actually fit inside the opening in the bottom of the banjo and becomes cocked when you lock it down. When you release the lever to try and move the banjo, its now stuck in position until you get the "support bracket" uncocked and back in place. It petty much makes the lathe unusable since you have to take the banjo apart every time you need to move it. Maybe its just me but with all the QC issues there have been with this release, you would think someone would actually start checking things instead of continually shipping customers items that dont work.

[Bill Boehme]

I'm not sure if I'm missing a part or not. Since I got the G0766, I've occasionally had problems with the banjo, especially if I moved the banjo too far in. It would get stuck and I'd have to take off the bolt on the bottom. I'd find the machined washer "cocked" sideways and stuck. When I look at the parts diagram, it shows bracket 061, whose purpose (at least partially) appears to capture the eccentric bushing and keep it aligned with the clamp bolt. All I have is part 59 and 60 (clamp bolt and eccentric bushing). There really is nothing to keep the bushing from sliding out of the clamp bolt.

I am wondering if someone just forgot a part, if everyone has the same setup as I do or what? Could those people who are converting their banjos comment on whether they just had a washer on the clamp bolt or had a bracket that looks like the one in the parts diagram?

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I don't have that model lathe, but just from looking at the pictures and the IPD, I would guess that your shoulder washer might be installed upside down.

[David C. Roseman]

Dennis and Brice, I just finished installing my new replacement banjo and fortunately don't have the problem you describe (and that another SMC member has mentioned in a Grizzly Green Monster Group thread). The slot in the bottom of my new banjo measures only 1.5 mm wider than that of the original banjo (46.5 mm vs. 45 mm). So, my step washer (a/k/a flanged washer), part ref. 61 in the Grizzly online parts list, stays sufficiently centered so that it can't cock in the slot.

The cocking problem is irritating, I'm sure, but pending a solution from Grizzly, I don't see why it has to make the lathe unusable. The outer diameter of the step washer is plenty large enough to seat well on both sides of the slot as long as the washer and the tool rest clamp bolt (part ref. 59) stay reasonably well centered.

There are a couple of ways to help that happen. One, as I mentioned in the GGMG thread, is to make a circular bushing with a strip of HDPE (cut from a used plastic milk container, motor oil quart bottle, etc.) to fit around the shoulder of the tool rest clamp bolt (part ref. 59) between it and the inner wall of the step washer. That may remove enough play to solve the problem. The second, more certain fix would be to cut a second shim from a thin strip of sheet metal (from a tin can, if no shop scraps are available) to wrap around the outside wall of the small step of the washer, and epoxy it in place. Steel-reinforced epoxy (JB Weld or equiv) would make a permanent fix, for sure. Clean the surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner well beforehand, especially if a can is used for source material because of the BPA lining). Wrap a thin wire around the shim to hold it in place while the epoxy sets. I'm thinking it might take 30 minutes in the shop to accomplish both fixes. All the shims need to do is keep the bolt/washer assembly centered until the locking lever is clamped down. So there would be very little force on the shims.

BTW, for the owners of the G0766 who haven't yet made the changeover of reusable parts from the original banjo, here's a tip for removing the rubberized sleeve from the old locking lever handle. It acts like a Chinese finger puzzle if you try to just pull it off. Instead, close the jaws of a crescent wrench loosely over the handle just above the sleeve, then push the sleeve right off. It's a mechanic's trick for remove molded polymer handles from equipment hand levers.

[lynn cranmer]

Hi Bric, I have the same set up and have had the same problem with the banjo getting stuck. I am waiting for the new potentiometer to arrive so I can get back to work.

[Brice Rogers]

Hi Bric, I have the same set up and have had the same problem with the banjo getting stuck. I am waiting for the new potentiometer to arrive so I can get back to work.

Lynn, sorry to hear that. I ordered a set of parts for the G0733 to retrofit into my new banjo. That way I'll have 2 banjos. I have some ideas of using the second banjo for perhaps a second support for hollowing or perhaps to hold a work light. But, in my haste to get it ordered, I made a mistake on one part - - and ordered the locking clamp rather than the "support bracket" (a.k.a. as "that damn washer that gets stuck").

So my new plan B is to machine my own stepped washer. If I have the right materials laying around, I might make it our of cold roll steel. Otherwise I might make it out of 6061 aluminum (of which I have a decent supply on hand and which is easier to machine). In either case, I intend to make it a little oversize in the major diameter so that it cannot get cocked sideways.

[Roger Chandler]

Well, I am a little late to the last part of this thread where the new banjo parts arrived. I was gone out of town and mine came while I was away. I got it put together this morning, using the new and original banjo parts, and mine is perfect......smooth as silk and it locks down securely and slides in every direction with ease.

The only mod I did was to enlarge the 25mm hole to 1 inch and my latest acquisition rest arrived as well.....an outside curve bowl rest from Robust with long post. All the rests work great on either the new banjo or my Oneway banjo.......happy camper here!

[Joe Kaufman]

Same reaction as Bill

"I don't have that model lathe, but just from looking at the pictures and the IPD, I would guess that your shoulder washer might be installed upside down."

In picture #3 what look like 3 "stake" marks may be intended to deform the bolt enough to retain the cam inside the bolt. If so, they are in the wrong location if the cam is centered in the bolt in the picture. What prevents the cam from slipping out the other direction?

Joe

[Brice Rogers]

I am currently waiting for the g0733 parts to complete my new banjo. I noticed that the new casting is much nicer than the old one. The surface that goes against the lathe bed is smoother for one thing. The old banjo didn't look like it had been milled - - there were strange marks that made me think that it might have been "scraped". Also the variation in width (where the step washer goes) is half of what the old one was (1.865 to 1.890 versus 1.845 to 1.940). Also, the new one is a bit narrower which will or may reduce the chance of the washer getting stuck. It is still possible to wedge the shoulder washer sideways but perhaps in use, that will no longer be an issue. The old casting was rough looking inside including on those surfaces where the washer needs to slide. So I am hopeful that when I get all of the parts that it will be better than before.IMG_0057 (768x1024).jpgIMG_0054 (1024x768).jpg

I was pleased to see that the length of the inside of the casting that supports the tool post is the same as it was before. I was previously concerned that it would be less because they shortened the height. But that isn't so.

In regards to the comments from Bill and Joe, the washer only fits one way. If I tried to reverse it, things wouldn't fit. If you look at the picture, you can get a better idea of the profile and see that if it was reversed that it would protrude further inwards. There isn't enough clearance to the bolt, and rod to allow that. But thanks for the comment. I took the time to check it out "just in case".

[Cary Falk]

I assembled mine today. No issues