Newbie ? Flattening Boards with Benchtop Planer

[David Degan]

Hi all. I've recently discovered an interest in word working after building a small tool shed that led me to build some reclining chaisse lounge chairs and now I am hooked. I came across this board by accident and have been reading various threads and am impressed with the help available. Not having the space or budget to get a joiner and planer I've decided to buy a simple bench top planer (something like the Dewalt, Ridgid or Delta models) which I can use to build indoor furniture using solid wood instead of plywood. I've read some threads on flattening boards using a joiner and then planing to thickness, and being a newbie I'm sure this is not a new idea, but could I accomplish the same thing with a planer only, say by building an extension to the in and out feed tables, and then planing slowing with the concave side down?
Thanks in advance for your help!

[Sam Chambers]

David:

Welcome to the Creek! You're right - This is a great community and there are many more experienced folks (I'm a relative newbie myslef) who are always happy to share their expertise.

Planers and jointers do different things. Jointers flatten boards and create 90-degree corners. Planers create boards of uniform thickness with parallel faces. When you feed a board into a planer, the pressure rollers inside the machine (there are two - one before the cutter head and on after) press the board flat against the table of the machine. If you have aboard that's slightly cupped, warped or twisted, what you'll get out the other end is a cupped, warped or twisted board with perfectly parallel faces, and that's probably not what you're after.

There was an article in Fine Woodworking a few issues back about a jig to do just what you're trying to do. You can see it in action at http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt095.asp.

There are some very good quality jointers out there at reasonable prices. I can't imagine being without mine, though I always wish it were bigger!

Good luck.

[Tom Jones III]

Don't under-estimate the value of hand planes, especially if money is tight. For $100 you can buy or make 2 hand planes and buy a good hand plane book. These three things will help you accomplish what you need a jointer and planer to do plus a lot more. I wish that I had started this way.

[Daniel Fisher]

David,
As noted, planners are not intended to flatten. That said, the way to jury-rig a planner is to shim the wood so that it cannot be flattened by the pressure rollers. I've seen several articles on how to do it, but I don't have any specific references. As I recall, though, you probably want to start with the concave side up rather than the convex.

[Lee DeRaud]

As noted, planners are not intended to flatten. That said, the way to jury-rig a planner is to shim the wood so that it cannot be flattened by the pressure rollers. I've seen several articles on how to do it, but I don't have any specific references. As I recall, though, you probably want to start with the concave side up rather than the convex.

I can hear that argument going on right now:

"More shims!!"
"Less flattening!!"
"More SHIMS!!"
"Less FLATTENING!!"

Am I the only one getting thirsty?

[David Degan]

Sam, thanks for that reference, that is one amazing jig! And the last time I used a hand plane was in shop class grade 7, many years ago but I definitely agree that I need to consider buying some good hand tools to complement the power tools. Can you recommend a specific book or two?

Again, thanks for your help and I look forward to posting pics of my projects and making use of the amazing knowledge and experience from members of this board.

[Richard Wolf]

David, most of use have worked around problems and have done things we didn't know we were not supposed to.
If you are careful picking out your lumber, no twist, no warps, only cupping, you will be able to flatten it with a planer as you mentioned. Convex up, and very light passes. The main thing is to get in the shop and do it instead of dreaming of a shop full of machines. Because we all still dream of a shop full of machines.

Richard

[Tom Jones III]

Good hand plane books

<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="342"> <tbody><tr><td class="countHdr" valign="top">
</td><td colspan="3">Handplane Book
Garrett Hack, John S. Sheldon (Photographer)</td></tr></tbody> </table> ISBN: 1561587125

Making and Mastering Wood Planes
David Finck, Foreword by James Krenov
Paperback
ISBN: 140272022X

Making Traditional Wooden Planes
John M. Whelan, John M. Whelan (Illustrator)
Paperback
ISBN: 1879335697

[Dan Forman]

"Classic Hand Tools" gives a nice overview of what is out there. It's by Garret Hack, and available alone or in a set with "The Handplane Book" mentioed earlier. Both excellent books. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...346258-4899325

For general woodworking info, I really like the Taunton Press's new series of instructional books "The Complete Illustrated Book of ..." I think there are six of them now, they are available singly or in sets of three, but if you by from Amazon, there isn't much saving on the sets. The subjects are: shaping wood; furniture and cabinet construction; finishing; sharpening; joinery; working with wood, using woodworking tools. Well, I guess that's seven as of this moment. They are truly well illustrated, and give multiple ways of accomplishing tasks, with hand or power tools. Here is a link to a couple of them. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...346258-4899325

I have had very good luck buying used books from Amazon, so don't hesitate to look for those too. You can save a bundle on some of the classic books. Speaking of which, HIGHLY recommended is "The Fine Art Of Cabinet Making" by James Krenov.

Dan

Dan

[Alan Turner]

An expression to remeber with respect to the paner is "Banana in, banana out." With that in mind, I lived with no jointer for many, many years. The FWW jig is cute, but slow and unneeded, IMHO. A flat piece of something (MDF is flat) and some wedges which are hot melt glued on to the bottom, both sides, to resist the pressure rollers tendancy to flatten a curve you don't want flattened, is quite sufficient.

Have fun with the chips. Welcome to SMC.

[Steve Clardy]

Guess I'm odd man out here. I never do the jointer to flatten, then surface to size.
I was taught in school to do it the proper way, and every book I've seen preaches to joint then surface.
If the board is THAT CUPPED, I rip it, then reglue it.
Usually these pieces get throwed back and ripped into narrower pieces for door panels or turned into rail and stile material, or face frame material.
All I've ever had is a 6" jointer, and felt money spent for anything wider was a waste of money. Money I could spend on another tool that is needed.
Steve