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Thread: How to run #6 wire across my basement joists?

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Allan Speers View Post
    OK, but I already have the #6 Romex, and I still like the idea of having a metal protector around a 220 line. Taking into consideration you point about heat, would it not be OK to use an oversized conduit, say 3/4", and leave small gaps every few feet? (Or maybe even drill heat holes on the "top" surface of the conuit.)
    Allan, it's your house and your call. I would never do it. I've seen too many unexplainable things happen. Certain rules of the code were created because scientific proof, testing or personal experience dictated it.

    If I had the romex and it met code in my area, I would install it according to local code. You may be able to install it through the joists. That would at least put it in a place somewhat protected. But it's ultimately your decision.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Central Ohio
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    My area generally follows the NEC. Having purchased new houses, one built in 1997, and the other built in 2012, the electrician ran all of the high amp (dryer, oven, and A/C) cables in the unfinished basement stapled to the inside surface of the sil plate (not touching the foundation) when possible, and then through the joists when necessary.

    There are rules for where you can drill through a joist or stud without weakening it, so check those, especially if the joist is an engineered one with OSB.

  3. #33
    Allen - I agree with Julie on the mixing of Romex and conduit. It's an either/or thing. If you're heck-bent on running the metal conduit AND you already have the Romex and you want to use it - you can pull the outer jacket off the Romex and run it through the metal conduit as separate strands... thus avoiding the heat buildup issue - which is real.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Deutsch View Post
    Allen - I agree with Julie on the mixing of Romex and conduit. It's an either/or thing. If you're heck-bent on running the metal conduit AND you already have the Romex and you want to use it - you can pull the outer jacket off the Romex and run it through the metal conduit as separate strands... thus avoiding the heat buildup issue - which is real.
    Im not an electrician, but i have pulled tons of wire. If you already have the romex, and really want to use conduit, (and you should, if you can) then i think Tom is right here. Slit the Romex and remove the conductors and pull them separately. Heat is a real issue with 60 amps.
    Paul

  5. #35
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    Here in MI every house with a basement has tons of romex pulled through holes drilled in the joists, including range and dryer feeds. Yea, pulling it is challenging but doable if you keep it in a straight line, run your holes so you can almost eyeball a row of holes and make you holes big enough and use a helper to feed the cable.
    NOW you tell me...

  6. #36
    An easy way to drill the holes in a straight line is to snap a line on the bottom of the joists, take an adjustable square and set it at the depth you want the holes to be. Make your mark and drill away. Around here most inspectors require at least 2" of joist below the bottom of the hole.

    The problem most have is getting a drill in there. I have a Milwaukee right angle drill and self-feeding bits so it's easy with that setup. But if someone doesn't have the right tools, drilling holes 2" up and in between joists can be a problem. You have to drill at an angle and then feeding the cable in becomes a challenge.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  7. #37
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    Julie, arent those drills massive beasts? The one we almost bought was really heavy.
    Paul

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
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    Google this in regards to cutting anything on a joist:

    Notching joists

    There are rules where notching and/or holes may be drilled within a joist.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by paul cottingham View Post
    Julie, arent those drills massive beasts? The one we almost bought was really heavy.
    The one I have, the standard Milwaukee right angle drill, probably weighs 5-8 pounds and can handle up to 4" bits with little problem, if you have it torqued down. But the beast you're talking about is probably the Hole Hawg.

    And it truly is a beast! You can't stop it.

    This is like what I have:

    It's not as compact or powerful as the Hole Hawg but it handles the drilling requirements electricians have. One time I was drilling a stud where a panel was mounted on the other side. I knew I had to be careful I didn't drill so far I caught the metal of the panel. I didn't stop in time, the bit caught, and the hand on the trigger came up and punched me in the face. So it still has some power. But if I did that with the Hole Hawg, I probably would have ended up on the floor, hearing birds chirping around my head.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  10. If you're going to just strap it to the bottom of the joists put in conduit, at least 1" maybe 1 1/4 ". It will not hurt the wire and properly sized conduit will have enough airspace, you just don't want it to tight in there, there is a code about how much airspace you need. If you decide to not use conduit then go though the joists.

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