If I had only one router I would want it to be a 1-3/4 hp plunge router. But then I would buy another router, because a person should not own only one router. I think its actually a sin .. not sure ..
Second choice would be a trim router ..
If I had only one router I would want it to be a 1-3/4 hp plunge router. But then I would buy another router, because a person should not own only one router. I think its actually a sin .. not sure ..
Second choice would be a trim router ..
If it is, it seems to be a self-rectifying one .
IMHO your first router should be a plunge. Better yet, a combo package as several makers offer these at a good price point. To give a comparison opinion on a tool, one should own or have owned and used a variety over time. I am one of those who bought a DeWalt 618 combo kit as recently as 3 years ago. It went back as it was just a poor tool for the price. From the variety of reviews on DeWalt and PC, it seems consistency may be their primary problem.
A router is a pretty personal tool and how it feels in your hands is a big influence on how much "better" one will seem than another. You can get your hands on Bosch, DeWalt and Hitachi brands at Lowes, Makita, Milwaukee, Porter Cable and Ridgid at Home Depot. Try to get a few in your hands and see how they feel to you.
After passing the comfort test, read as many reviews from current owners as possible; the newer the better. As mentioned, several brands are not what they once were so more recent reviews will help with that. I prefer Milwaukees for a number of reasons but, the newest I have is many years old so I cannot speak to the current offering. The ones I picked up through the mid to late 2000's are all wonderful tools and still going strong although used on an almost daily basis. I'm sure this reliability is present in other brands as well.
A 2-1/4HP sized combo or plunge will be most versatile and can even be used in a router table for most things. A smaller router is nice for edge work due to the weight/control factors. Larger routers are nice for the table. Oh, and I find variable speed a must on any router although I do have a couple of fixed speed 1-3/4HP "body-grip" models that I use when speed control is not an issue.
If I ticked off a list of things that I find important in a hand held router:
A comfortable, confident feel in my hands
Adequate power for the job
Smooth operation of plunge, height adjustment, depth stop
Intelligent power switch location
Low vibration
Quality collet and ease of bit changes
The importance of dust collection in a router will vary with your requirements. Dust collection on simple edge forming operations can be made pretty good on many routers with the offered (or after-market) accessories. This holds true for captured bit operations like dados as well. There will always be some operation that defies a sensible method of dust collection versus the job to be done. Again, the importance of this and the amount of effort you will put out to achieve it will vary based on many things.
Lots of good responses and info in this thread. Good luck with your search and enjoy the hunt ;-)
Last edited by glenn bradley; 07-25-2015 at 8:11 AM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
While aI agree with that - - - I also disagree with that (idea).When it comes down to it all routers just spin router bits. The manufactures add this bell and that whistle to try to distinguish themselves from other brands but there really isn't that much difference between routers of the same size from different manufactures.
Cheap routers use cheap components and at 25,000 RPM those cheap components loosen up a lot quicker.
If they didn't, then nobody would pay Milwaukee or Festool or DeWalt or Porter Cable prices - we'd all happily route for years with our $29.00 Harbor Freight router.
Bearings go and the smoke monster escapes from more expensive routers, but,,,,,it takes longer...
The other part I can't agree with is that the "bells and whistles" being there just to set them apart from others.
I have (at last count) something like 8 different routers. Each one of them has some feature or another that sets it apart from the others & (more to the point) it's because of that feature that I bought the router!
Take my most recent purchase - a Milwaukee 5625.
It came down to either the big Milwaukee or the Porter Cable 7518. I went with the Milwaukee for one reason only - - it has above table adjustments.
Some would call that feature a "bell or whistle", but, in my case, after being used to having that feature (the 5625 replaces a Freud 1700 that the smoke monster escaped from), I call above table adjustments a requirement.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
Greetings all - first post here. I hope I am not stepping out of line.
I personally won't send PC any more of my money. It once was that they were a premium line. I'm afraid I don't care for them anymore and I'm voting with my wallet. The older PC stuff I had (a very sad story about a van and a dirtbag) was very nice. That being said, the PC690 is a bit of a "standard" in the router world. What to do? There's a forum which is nearly all about routers where I received my advice. There I was told the Bosch 1617 was the one to fit the bill for much the same reasons the OP gave. I found one reconditioned at CPO with the plunge and fixed base (model 1617EVSPK-RT) for $164:
http://www.cpotools.com/factory-reco...efault,pd.html
There was one small scratch in the blue plastic and that was about it. To this order I added a few recommended accessories:
BSHNRA1126 - NEW Bosch Templet Guide Adapter $6.99
BSHNRA1151 - NEW Bosch Centering Pin and Cone $9.99
BSHNRA1125 - NEW Bosch 7pc Templet Guide Kit $28.99
With shipping, $209.97 or a little less than a brand new kit would have cost me.
The base has holes that match the PC690 and with the template adapter you get everything that you'd get with the PC690 by way of "standards", as well as the Bosch accessories, plus it allows changing the template adapters from below. The centering pin/cone will be important sooner or later so even if you don't know why, get it now and save on shipping. I have the fixed base in my table (more like a board that sits over my table saw extension) and I can adjust from above. I keep the plunge base on it when it's not in the table.
So there you go. It's hard to call something "advice" when it comes from a new guy with no creds that you've not even met - but you can call it an option.
Lee Bussy,
Kansas City, MO
when we first got the dw618's at school i thought the cord disconnecting at the router was the dumbest thing i had seen. after using it my opinion now is that it is the smartest. no more going to the floor or outlet to unplug when changing bits. i don't know if others have this option but it is a fine router for 150.00.
This is a hardly used Bosch 1617? kit I got for $80 off Craigs List.
PC260156.jpg
This is $100 worth of used routers. The small B&D routers are 10 to $25 ea. Cheap enough to leave set up with round over bit, etc. The DeWalt was $40, new at Lowes. Floor sample missing parts, which DeWalt graciously sent me free.
PC260158.jpg
Be thrifty, Grasshopper.
Rick Potter
DIY journeyman,
FWW wannabe.
AKA Village Idiot.
I would like to thank everyone for their input on this. With your input and some good ole fashioned studying up I've come to a decision. Bosch 1617EVSPK it is!
Your selection is a good one, just a little surprised that Makita doesn't get mentioned more often in these types of threads.
Haven't experienced a Makita router per se but what tools I do have from this brand have been more than satisfactory.
I have several PC690s; a Dewalt 616,618, and 611; and a Ridgid and PC trim router. I love all of the DeWalts but the 618s are prone to VS failures. I haven't had it happen to me yet but it might. The way around that is the 616 motor. I hate the PC690s. They slip unless you crank on the clamp. Mine aren't that smooth when you are adjusting the height.
Lee Bussy,
Kansas City, MO
Don't know if you've been to the store yet, but you may want to look at the MRC23EVSK Bosch kit. I've been thinking of adding this router to the batch because of the LED light, the added illumination seems like a real plus.
The MRC23 is the next step in the evolution of that line. The light is nice. If you plan for this to go in a table however you have to consider the switch is on the handle so that may limit choices, especially if you move to a lift. If it's never going to go in a table, then the MRC23 may be a good choice.
Lee Bussy,
Kansas City, MO