Sorry to be so late on this, Lou.
Bingham's book is pretty basic....."Specialized Joinery" by Algrove Publishing available at Lee Valley and others is far more detailed on interior joinery.
To fit curves, you can do trial and error using cardboard patterns or make up some ticking sticks.
No brass fasteners, they corrode badly in salt....3-18 or 316 SS is fine in the interior above the cabin sole....use silicon bronze below it. Their galvanic potential (corrosion) is close enuf that mixing them isn't an issue.
No interior glues or finishes either....use marine epoxy and marine varnish. No crisp edges in marine work....round them over....they don't hold finish.
Cabinets are generally mounted via cleats running from sole to deck beams so they can be easily removed. When installing cleats, don't drill into the hull without completely sealing the hole and bedding the cleat in a non-adhesive marine bedding compound like Dolphinite. Figuring huill thickness to determine screw size is tricky....err on the short side, screw wise, as your cabinets aren't structural.
““Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff
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