Paul- My adze is has the bevel on the inside. I'll take a couple of pix tonight when I get home. Unfortunately the maker, Ray Larsen, of Genuine Forgery passed away a few years ago and his tools are no longer available.
Dave Anderson
Chester, NH
Thanks, Dave.
Paul
These 2 pictures are of the Ray Larsen Genuine Forgery gutter adze I bought from that crusty old Swamp Yankee over 20 years ago. He was a fantastic guy and also did custom tools to order. Ray also wrote a smithing book which by now is probably out of print.
Dave Anderson
Chester, NH
This is the standard scorp that Ray Larsen sold. Also bought 20+ years ago.
Dave Anderson
Chester, NH
One further question. How about this combination: #3 and #4 gouges for roughing out, combined with a Veritas pullshave for finishing up? And sanding and scraping, of course. I might add a auriou chairmakers rasp.
Thanks again.
Paul
Paul- These are the drawknives I own and use. From the top descending they are:
James Swan & Co. 10"
Genuine Forgery by Ray Larsen
C. J. Kimball & Son
Unknown maker
I inherited all but the Genuine Forgery. All work well though the Swan is perhaps my favorite.
Dave Anderson
Chester, NH
Hi Paul, looks like you're moving away from chisels, but if you do use them for shaping, in my opinion, a number 3 would be too shallow a radius for roughing - I use the flatter ones for smoothing. For roughing and shaping, I use a no. 7 bent gouge 1" plus some 2" straight gouges; numbers 7 and 9. I'd think for a chair seat, you'd want to go wider than 1" - it helps blend your gouge cuts prior to smoothing with a finer chisel or scorp. The more curved radii really help hog waste out for bowls - they concentrate the mallet strikes on a narrow area of wood fibers and cut/ pop them out in a controlled "scoop". Not sure that you'd need that much waste removal with chair seats - looks like plenty of guys have experience to share for chairs specifically.
Karl
Paul- I probably use the Ray Larsen the most with the James Swan coming in a near second. The one I use the least is the smallest. All of my drawknives are sharpened with a bit of a back bevel. It is to some folks controversial, but I find that it allows me to enter and leave a cut very easily. I can literally make a scooping cut shaped like the top view of a canoe. If properly sharpened, a drawknife can make a cut with a finish as smooth as smoothing plane.
Dave Anderson
Chester, NH