Help me decide: why do I need a Brace?

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I use braces (and an array of hand drills) for the same reason I use hand saws. I have little kids, and when I fired up an electric drill they would run out of the room. When I fire up a brace or hand drill, they come over and ask questions and talk about how cool it is and then want to take it to their workbench and drill holes with it.

Plus they are a lot of fun. I have several braces, a #2 and #5 millers falls hand drill, and a #12 shoulder drill. The whole bunch cost me less then a good cordless electric, they all work great, and I really don't see myself having to replace them (or the battery packs) in my lifetime or anyone else's.

[Stephen Clement]

This was briefly mentioned, but it is much easier to drill at a precise angle with a brace and auger bit than with an electric hand drill for three reasons. First, the force from you via the pad is directly in line with the but wherea for an electric drill you are having to apply both downward force and a moment in the side handle. Second, auger bits are much longer than most drill bits, so any angle is exaggerated, helping you to see any error. Finally, you go slower so there is time to correct small errors before they become big errors.

Unless I need a flat bottom hole or the snail of the auger would poke through something, I always go for my brace and rarely touch my electric drill. The brace is always more accurate and more pleasant. It also has some of the Neander appeal of doing an operation in a way that is enjoyable vice in a way that is fast. I very much like that the drill is silent and that it doesn't spew chips out.

Also, my unrequested two cents on selecting a brace: I have 4 braces of different types and the all have strengths and weakness. In order of preference: 1) Spofford Brace - chuck is quick to change bits, brace is lightweight without a big chuck, and the back end of the bit is in line with the lower arm of the swing making it the shortest option. 2) Iron brace with jam chuck - fastest bit change, chuck length is in the middle of Spofford and 2-jaw, and has a bare-bones elegance to it. 3) 2-jaw chuck without ratchet - heavy, long, but sturdy. I don't drive anything over a 16 (1") in the other braces because they don't feal sturdy enough. 4) 2-jaw chuck with ratchet - heaviest, longest, but the ratchet is handy for tight corners and driving large bits in hard wood. 5*) Scotch brace - I have never tried one and don't know how it would fair. My guess is similar to the iron brace with a jam chuck. The scotch brace pad is unnecessarily long, but chuck is equivalent in length to Spofford.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys! We'll see what I can find. I like Miller's Falls planes - maybe I can start by finding a small brace of theirs. I can see the appeal and it WOULD be handy for driving screws.

I appreciate all your help and advice!
Fred

[Mike Henderson]

Get a Fray Spofford brace (with wooden handles) if you want to be really cool.

Mike

[Archie England]

Thanks guys! We'll see what I can find. I like Miller's Falls planes - maybe I can start by finding a small brace of theirs. I can see the appeal and it WOULD be handy for driving screws.

I appreciate all your help and advice!
Fred

MF indeed! I have an 8", 10", and 12" Millers Falls braces. They are nicely made! Oh, and I have one early MF sorta (early partner before MF, if I understand that history) mfg during or after the Civil War. No ratchet, no frills, no pretty paint, just a sturdy 12" brace. Kinda cool to own a piece of that history (1864-1878).

[Michael Ray Smith]

MF indeed! I have an 8", 10", and 12" Millers Falls braces. They are nicely made! Oh, and I have one early MF sorta (early partner before MF, if I understand that history) mfg during or after the Civil War. No ratchet, no frills, no pretty paint, just a sturdy 12" brace. Kinda cool to own a piece of that history (1864-1878).

You're probably talking about the original Barber brace. Yes, that's very cool!
http://oldtoolheaven.com/brace/FeaturedBraces.htm

[Michael Ray Smith]

Thanks guys! We'll see what I can find. I like Miller's Falls planes - maybe I can start by finding a small brace of theirs.

Fred, the primo Millers Falls brace is the Parsons brace, http://oldtoolheaven.com/brace/FeaturedBraces.htm, but they're pretty hard to find, especially at a decent price. However, the Lion braces are also very, very good, and they're more readily available. The main design feature that they have in common (and in common with the Stanley braces made for the Bell System and some others that have been mentioned) is a chuck with bearings. The ten-inch models are the 772 and the 872, http://oldtoolheaven.com/brace/brace5.htm. Try to get one made before 1957 with the Leland universal jaws rather than the later economy jaws. There are a couple of 772's listed on eBay right now.

[Matthew Hills]

Brace was excellent for boring dog holes in bench.
I don't use it for much else, but for that it was the best tool for the job.

Matt

[steven c newman]

Someday, you can just pick a brace and bit in the size you need, since each brace would have it's own bit ready to go...
arsenal of drills.jpg
Warning: If you let one in the door to the shop, half a dozen more will soon sneak in as well...

[lowell holmes]

Has anyone mentioned that auger bits are 1/64" oversize. That makes them not a good choice for dowel joinery.
One of the braces is a Stanley Bell Systems brace.

OBTW, I have three braces and a full set of Irwin auger bits.

Consider this post a bit of a gloat.