A better wedge

[Mike Holbrook]

I was attempting to split a 8x25" white oak log with a friend last week. The L&N froe was not enough. Most wedges lack the bevel needed to penetrate wood like this. I have sen wedges used by guys like Curtis Buchanan that are longer and wider than the average wedge available today. The bevel on the type wedge I am talking about is more gradual allowing it to penetrate hard wood easier. I have searched auctions and places that sell wedges but so far I have not come up with something comparable at a reasonable price or even at an unreasonable price. I was wondering if any of my fellow SMC posters might have any idea where to buy such a wedge?

[Jim Koepke]

I know you can buy wedges like that at some logging supply stores. There are even plastic ones for use with a chain saw when it gets stuck in a tree.

I bought one like you mention at a flea market recently. I used to think two wedges are enough. Then one of them became misplaced. So now I am buying them cheap as found and working to grind off the mushrooms.

Note: Looks like the shape wedge mentioned above is called a felling or falling wedge. It also appears that there are no longer many steel ones made in the U.S. Some loggers in Europe like the steel. Looks like you may have to find used or try one made of plastic.

jtk

[Mike Null]

Do you have any blacksmiths in your area?

[Paul Saffold]

As Jim said, it's a felling wedge. I found one on ebay. New ones are all plastic. Not everyone uses felling wedges though. You should be able to split the log with splitting wedges. You will need several to get the split started and then some gluts to finish the job. Watch Curtis Buchanan's videos.

Paul

[Mike Holbrook]

Thanks for the comments. I have split a good deal of wood for firewood. I have also used wedges a good deal for felling trees. I have used commercial wedges of several types including metal and plastic. I also have two very pricey Gransfors wedges with twisted bodies. This subject, however, is one of those that the more I have delved into it the less sure I have been concerning how much I actually know about splitting. In specific, trying to split precise 3/4- 1" pieces from a log retaining the grain of the wood for the entire length of each piece, is much different than just breaking a log into pieces to burn it or allow it to dry faster.

I took several green wood courses. We only actually split pieces to work with in one class. The pieces I split were for short 8-10" spindles, easily done with a froe and froe club. What I am discovering is splitting 24=40+" small pieces from a log is a whole different story. I have watched all Curtis' videos multiple times and I still do not feel like I am getting the whole story. Often short videos leave out large parts of the time effort and work that goes into accomplishing a task, in order to present the information in an easily digestible form. For instance Curtis starts with pieces that obviously are ideally suited for the splits being made from them without necessarily showing all the steps and decision making that went into getting the various pieces.

I took down what looked like a good white oak last week. I sawed logs 24-40" long from that tree, I was disconcerted to find out that a good deal of the wood was very poorly suited for use. Rot in the center of the tree not visible even in individual logs for instance. I am developing a greater appreciation for choosing trees, logs... I was frustrated at the time & effort it took just to split one small log once. Admittedly I am learning here and discovering that splitting green wood for chair pieces does not bare much resemblance to splitting fire wood or using wedges to fell trees.

I plan to study Galbert's new book & Langsner's on the subject and maybe contact Drew and or Pete on the subject as well. I thought I would inquire here as well and post my findings. I know at least one other SMC poster is interested in the topic.

[David Ragan]

Thanks for the comments. I have split a good deal of wood for firewood. I have also used wedges a good deal for felling trees. I have used commercial wedges of several types including metal and plastic. I also have two very pricey Gransfors wedges with twisted bodies. This subject, however, is one of those that the more I have delved into it the less sure I have been concerning how much I actually know about splitting. In specific, trying to split precise 3/4- 1" pieces from a log retaining the grain of the wood for the entire length of each piece, is much different than just breaking a log into pieces to burn it or allow it to dry faster.

I took several green wood courses. We only actually split pieces to work with in one class. The pieces I split were for short 8-10" spindles, easily done with a froe and froe club. What I am discovering is splitting 24=40+" small pieces from a log is a whole different story. I have watched all Curtis' videos multiple times and I still do not feel like I am getting the whole story. Often short videos leave out large parts of the time effort and work that goes into accomplishing a task, in order to present the information in an easily digestible form. For instance Curtis starts with pieces that obviously are ideally suited for the splits being made from them without necessarily showing all the steps and decision making that went into getting the various pieces.

I took down what looked like a good white oak last week. I sawed logs 24-40" long from that tree, I was disconcerted to find out that a good deal of the wood was very poorly suited for use. Rot in the center of the tree not visible even in individual logs for instance. I am developing a greater appreciation for choosing trees, logs... I was frustrated at the time & effort it took just to split one small log once. Admittedly I am learning here and discovering that splitting green wood for chair pieces does not bare much resemblance to splitting fire wood or using wedges to fell trees.

I plan to study Galbert's new book & Langsner's on the subject and maybe contact Drew and or Pete on the subject as well. I thought I would inquire here as well and post my findings. I know at least one other SMC poster is interested in the topic.

I'm the friend mentioned. We really went to town on that small log.

I think the process was soooo difficult just because the hardwood was partially cured, or whatever by some kind of disease.

Isn't it enough to pick out the bole of a straight tree, without any knotholes or bark irregularities, and have clean ends?

Well-hey we had a great time, anyway

[Jim Koepke]

I know at least one other SMC poster is interested in the topic.

If the topic is splitting wood for making chairs, it also holds my interest.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Isn't it enough to pick out the bole of a straight tree, without any knotholes or bark irregularities, and have clean ends?

One of the local sawyers told me you also need to listen to the wood. Tap on the log and listen to the sound returned.

I have been trying, but still don't have it down.

jtk

[David Nelson1]

Mine as well. I bought Curtis's DVD's and If I remember right and I'll check a bit later he had more wedges than a few in the white oak log he was splitting as well as some very wide wood ones. Those where used after the log has started to pop.

[David Ragan]

If the topic is splitting wood for making chairs, it also holds my interest.

jtk

Indeed, Jim, the topic is splitting wood for the crafting of chairs.

(White Oak is the wood is the wood that defeated us last weekend. Also, ash, hickory, and beech are useful for green/bending, etc?)

[lowell holmes]

Great Red River Raft_thumb[2].png


You might find wood in this picture to make one.

[paul cottingham]

If the topic is splitting wood for making chairs, it also holds my interest.

jtk

And mine, as well!

[Tom M King]

Monster Maul.

[Tony Shea]

Hey Mike, don't beat yourself up too bad especially if this is your first log. You're right that guys like Curtis, Peter, etc make this look easy. They have been doing it a very long time. The secret to getting good splits is all in finding the right tree!! These guys are buying logs from a place that supplies veneer logs Which means they are damn near perfect. I personally don't have a log supplier like those guys and resort to the Maine woods. The best trees I have here for the purpose are ash trees which split like a dream if I find a good one. There is always a chance the tree has started rotting in the center, has a small amount of twist that wasn't noticed, has hidden knots, or some other defect that renders the tree unusable for the purpose. The key is to be very picky and once you find something that is questionable then use it as firewood, otherwise you'll fight it throughout the entire process. You should also stay away from the first couple of feet toward the butt of the log. The grain gets really tough down there and isn't worth the trouble. Make yourself some gluts of all different sizes and shapes and let them dry out thoroughly, wet gluts are useless and just bounce out as you pound them in. I learned that through experience, something that is not mentioned in any text or video I have come across. I only use 3 metal wedges and they are all random sizes, just ones I have come across along the way. The rest of the splitting is done with gluts, dry gluts of maple mostly. I have split logs that are 8'+ with just those three wedges and some gluts. The toughest wood I have come across in splitting is some of the red oaks around here, they can have really tangled up grain in which case I keep a sharp axe to sever fibers as I go along.

The point of this post is to find the absolute best tree you can possibly find. Straight bark all the way up and preferably forest trees, trees that have to compete with other trees for sunlight. These trees will be the straightest and have the longest section without knots or branches. But as Curtis says in one of his videos, splitting up a tree is like Christmas. You never know what's inside until you open it up, could be a lump of coal or a diamond. Keep on trying Mike, it will get easier and a whole lot more fun. Splitting is really my favorite part of the process!

[Mike Holbrook]

Kinda what I thought Tony. I picked a tree that was in a convenient location that I thought looked at least good. As Dave mentions above something happened to a section of the tree. I was a little worried when I saw black water pouring out of a log when I was sawing it into pieces. I will definitely spend more time looking on the next one. We have lots of Dogwood around here which is what I hear makes the best gluts. I got to try out the froe club I made and although it held up real well I don't think it is quite heavy enough so I plan to make a larger one.

I went back over Langsner's and Galbert's books on splitting and both mention and use a similar wedge to the one Curtis uses. It is longer and 2-3x times wider than the average 3-5 lb wedges that are so frequently found. Langsner has some good pictures showing how to use it to start a split. The sides are close to flat ground. It looks in Langsner's pictures like the wide wedge is not driven in too far it is more to get the split started. He then chases the split with two wedges along the side of the log, leapfrogging around a foot each time. The gluts seem to be used to drive the split all the way through the entire log. Connecting fibers between the two pieces are released using a small sharp axe. I think the longer wider wedge with the gradual taper makes it easier to control the initial split. Langsner makes the point that driving that wedge is a game of smaller strikes and finesse as opposed to brute force.