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Thread: Question Bout Shellac

  1. #1
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    Question Bout Shellac

    Will a 2# cut amber shellac be darker than a 1# cut amber shellac?

    I sprayed some oak with several coats of a 1# cut of amber shellac and now I'd like to spray some oak trim with amber, but I don't want to buy flakes and mix. I'd like to buy some Zinsser, which I believe is a 2# cut but I'd like the color to match. Will it?
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  2. #2
    The color is independent of the cut. Not all zinsser shellacs are the same. Which one are you thinking?

  3. #3
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    The hue is darker the higher the concentration (cut) so, yes, a 2# cut will be darker than a 1#. While that makes it seem like you are home free as you could just dilute the Zinsser to a 1# cut, there's no guarantee Zinsser's Amber shellac will be the same color as the shellac you made from flakes. Most likely it won't be. If it's critical that the color be the same, I'd buy more flakes.

    Your story reinforces why I never buy flakes. I use Sealcoat shellac and add Transtint dye to it to make any color I want. When I need more I just mix another batch, whether it be the same day or a year later the color will be the same.

    John

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    Remember that shellac should not be built up to a thick film. Several coats of a 2# cut may be more shellac than is ideal.

    Too thick a coat of shellac will alligator. Shellac should be a thin as possible that is flawless. Varnish can be built to a much thicker finish.

    FYI: Zinsser Amber still has the wax in it; so no poly or waterborne finishes can be put on top of it.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    The color is independent of the cut. Not all zinsser shellacs are the same. Which one are you thinking?
    I was looking at Bullseye Amber. I can pick it up at the big green Borg in quarts.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Holmes View Post
    Remember that shellac should not be built up to a thick film. Several coats of a 2# cut may be more shellac than is ideal.

    Too thick a coat of shellac will alligator. Shellac should be a thin as possible that is flawless. Varnish can be built to a much thicker finish.

    FYI: Zinsser Amber still has the wax in it; so no poly or waterborne finishes can be put on top of it.
    Would two coats of 2# be the same as 4 coats of 1#?

    Yeah I know about the wax, I wasn't going to topcoat with anything.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  7. #7
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    John

    I'd like to know more about how to color shellac.

    Is Transtint a powder or a liquid? Do keep notes on how much dye to mix with a quantity of shellac?
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette View Post
    Would two coats of 2# be the same as 4 coats of 1#?
    Yeah, in general. You can hear the "but" coming.........

    But - - that supposes that you put down equivalent total film thicknesses with the two methods.

    Also - I don't think there is any kind of standard for color from the wide variety of shellac suppliers. Amber from 2 different sources is not guaranteed to be the same color. And it sounds like one version of yours may be dewaxed, and the other is waxy. Rotsa Ruck.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette View Post
    John

    I'd like to know more about how to color shellac.

    Is Transtint a powder or a liquid? Do keep notes on how much dye to mix with a quantity of shellac?
    TransTint is a liquid. This is what you want. Test with a small amount of shellac, and count the number of drops you use,, as you work to getting the result you want.

    TransFast is powder. You don't want to use this for coloring shellac.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette View Post
    John

    I'd like to know more about how to color shellac.

    Is Transtint a powder or a liquid? Do keep notes on how much dye to mix with a quantity of shellac?

    You can read about Transtint here: http://homesteadfinishingproducts.co...t-liquid-dyes/

    And yes, you have to keep notes on how much dye you add to given quantity of shellac if you want to repeat it down the road. I keep finish samples for every project with the complete finishing schedule written on it. I also keep a project notebook with a copy of the finishing schedule.

    Here are just a couple of projects I've done where the primary color has come from a shellac/Transtint toner. This one is white ash:

    IMG_3633.JPG

    This one is maple and birch: IMG_8951.JPG

    And this was a birdseye maple top that I color matched to the base: IMG_9455.JPG

    In all cases I used Sealcoat shellac with Transtint dye(s). After the color was built by spraying 2 or 3 coats of dye I topcoated with a waterborne clearcoat.

    John

  10. #10
    John is a pro, but i will offer this. I toned with shellacand while it works beautifully, its tempting to build up too thick a coat. So practice on scrap so you can reach the appropriate color with the minimal build.

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