Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Bowling lane workbench top

  1. #1

    Bowling lane workbench top

    I am looking to build a workbench. In my search for maple lumber for the top, I came across some hard maple laminated bowling alley lanes that have been removed. The are about 42 inches wide, 4 inches thick and I could get one that is cut to the length I want. I have the equipment to cut it to width. How do you think it would work for a workbench top? It also has the aiming dots inlaid in it, which I think would be kind of a neat touch.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    I think a workbench is a great use, especially if you don't have to cut it. I believe there is a lot of metal used in putting together the lanes, so beware if you decide to cut it or cut dog holes.

  3. #3
    This has come up before. As Matt says we have had reports of lots of metal, but I don't remember anyone finding any as thick as what to mention. Let us know how it works out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,060
    I have an assembly/work table built out of some, but it has the synthetic top (I expect added later than original) over laminated maple. It had too much junk, top and bottom-including angle iron lagged up into it from the bottom, to be worth the trouble to do anything else with. The good thing is that it's nice and flat.

  5. #5
    I have one and I'll give you some retrospective comments (IOW if I had it to do over).

    Decide whether you want Roubo or traditional style bench.
    Obviously, build a good base first. Don't cheap out on the timbers use at least 5x5's and 2x8 stretchers with M/T joints.
    42" is pretty wide so if you want a narrower bench, remove # of strips.
    You will need an apron on the ends. You could glue up some strips and use them.

    If its like mine, it is nailed together, not glued, and this is where the problem is when you start drilling dog holes.
    If you don't want to take it apart, to get around the problem (at least on the front set of dog holes) you can insert a piece of clean wood that way you can drill all the holes on your drill press. This is what I did.

    If I had it to do over, I would do a couple things:

    1. Take all the strips apart, remove nails, and GLUE them back together (level and use winding sticks on base and use to glue top back flat).
    2. Make a split top bench, or at least a tool tray in the middle.

    You will need to flatten the top. Wood Whisperer has a pretty good video on doing this with a router and sled.
    I used a 1 1/2" flat bottom bit.
    Good luck! Let me know if I can help you with anything else.

    Having trouble uploading pics for some reason.
    Last edited by Robert Engel; 08-04-2015 at 5:47 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    My "alley" bench is goin' on 20 years of steady use. This sucker is heavy. All maple. Some newer alleys only have maple on the leading end.
    I use dogs from the "Work Mate" portable bench for the dog holes that couldn't be drill through due to the hardened spiral nails. End vice, face vice, a hold fast.
    I'll never wear this bench out in my life.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  7. #7
    made a dinning room table for my son and his wife out of bowling alley they found. it was not that thick so I was able to cut it with my worm drive. It had a ton of nails in it which were not problem for the saw but there are more than a few nails that were cut in half. To flatten the top we rented a floor sander placed the top on the garage floor and went at it. This worked well and went quickly.

  8. #8

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,178
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    I
    Obviously, build a good base first. Don't cheap out on the timbers use at least 5x5's and 2x8 stretchers with M/T joints.
    Without arguing against your excellent advice to build a stout base, I'd suggest that 5x5s and 2x8 stretchers might be a bit of overkill; firm construction using somewhat smaller material gave me a rock solid base for my workbench (with a very heavy 4" thick maple top).

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    868
    I am happy with mine. Full standard width and about 7' long.

    You do want the section that has the aiming indicators inlaid. The reason is that most of the alley is pine. It is just the end where the abuse occurs that is hard maple. Picture novices lobbing the ball upwards, and the ball then falling with a thump. Look at the piece you get and you will likely see a lot of little dimples left by balls.

    I think mine is about 3.5" thick. Can't measure it as I am in the UK on vacation at the moment (can one take vacation when retired?).

    Bill
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •