Assembly table/outfeed table questions

[Michael Cole]

My next project for the new shop is to build my assembly/outfeed table. I have a Rockler T track table that will be one side of the table top. It is 1 1/8" thick, which makes it difficult to match thicknesses for the other side of the table. I can use a 1/2" piece of plywood with a 5/8" piece on top to match the thickness (and the 5/8" piece will slide right over the bar on the front of the saw and match the top correctly). My question is will that be thick enough for the outfeed table. The t track table top seems plenty strong. I will build a stand with 4x4 legs and 2x6 cross members and 2x4 pieces to screw the plywood to. What do you think? If you have other ways to match thicknesses and make it sturdy, I will be open to suggestions. I do want to use the t track top as I have already bought it and used it just laying on a table when I assembled cabinets and really like it.

[Robert Engel]

Yeah, plenty thick enough. Think about what its doing. Mine is just a piece of 3/4 DS melamine with a frame under it.

If you're planning on using the outfeed for an assembly table (which I do not recommend) I would consider a torsion box top.

[glenn bradley]

I think some of the reason for the minimal response may be my reason . . . I am not sure what you are trying to do since the scale of that outfeed base is massive. Is this a pro shop where you will be handling multiple full sheets of ply as a regular thing?

The Rockler table is 2ft x 3ft so will this be the same as that? If so, 3/4" or even 1/2" material framed and supported with a couple of ribs would be plenty. The frame would allow you to match the height without issue. Both sub-assemblies could attach (set on) to a single sheet of 1/2" ply if you want that single-assembly stability.

Composites like MDF would allow and clearances for track exits or miter slot runners to be easily milled in. MDF tops with a good sealer or a BLO wash followed by a sealer and a wax job will last and last in most non-production environments. Feed us more info ;-)

[ian maybury]

Hi Michael. There's different ways of doing things, and i'm not expert. A lot depends on your specific needs, and available space, time and budget. My thought would however be to (as you are doing) think through possible arrangements before proceeding. Don't let the fact of the T track table dictate your thinking.

An outfeed table is basically a flat surface to provide support as material comes off a table saw - with the size determined by the sort of work you choose to do. It needs to be flush with the saw table, but not necessarily to within really tight tolerances. It may need slots cut in it aligned with the mitre slots in the saw table so that sleds etc with mitre bars can be pushed through. Which might conflict with the existing tracks in the T track board if it was built into it.

The T track board itself seems more like a general purpose work holding system - i could imagine you routing on it, or handling other shaping tasks there.

Assembly tables need typically to be reliably flat, and may be waxed or otherwise set up to avoid glue drips sticking to them. They don't necessarily have tracks/clamping/work holding assists built in, but there's probably no reason why not - and it could prove very useful. Depending on the sort of work might something bigger than even the extension of the 28x40 T track you mention be needed at times?

My space is tight, and so i have to compromise on this - but in principle it's often better to separate functions. So that if you need to go back to e.g. trim something during assembly, or have a second project going that your saw isn't clogged with stuff. Hardened glue drips on a saw table could do a lot of damage to work too. i.e i'd be very slow to place assembly (a potentially long drawn out and messy process) on a saw outfeed table.

Quite a few seem to handle their assembly on an accurately flattened workbench, using paper or whatever to catch glue drips. A machining/shaping table like the T track on a firm base sounds (separately) like it could be useful, especially if accurately flat. It could be used for assembly (glue in the tracks wouldn't be good), but maybe best only when the tracks are really needed, or if needing to double up because space and/or funds are tight?

My instinct with something like the T track table (since i'm tight for space) would be to keep it stood against the wall as a flat board, and to think of quick fixing it on the bench top (screwed into an adapted bench dog, or clamped in a vise or something) if needed for machining or specialised assembly tasks needing the T tracks. That way i could use it there when needed, still have the flat bench top available for assembly when needed, and (since it's a long bench) still keep the business/vise end of the top clear for other work. If i had the space and the need i'd think of a separate base (but it'd need to be dead solid) for the T table.....

[Jim Dwight]

I plan to make a workbench/assembly table/outfeed support with a top similar to a Ron Paulk workbench (google it). I have the plans and will adapt them to my situation. I don't plan to transport this to worksites so it will have totally locking casters and be against the wall when I'm not using it. The top will have holes for clamps and stops. It will probably be 3/4 thick. I will make a crosscut setup for my track saw for this worktable. It will have storage under the work surface. I like the dual levels of the Paul workbench so tools can go below freeing up space on the top surface. Clutter on the work surface is a constant issue for me. Paulk makes his 1/2 thick for easier portability. I think 3/4 will work better for me but I will probably make another top for the bench I have my CMS and RAS on that will be more portable and 1/2 thick.

My outfeed table/workbench in my last shop had a top of 3/4 plywood rimmed with oak scraps and topped with 1/4 luan. The luan was easily replaceable. 1/4 hardboard would probably be better. It was pretty big, maybe 30 x 60 inches and stayed flat enough. I like to make them about 1/4 shorter than the saw. Taller than the saw is a problem and the floor isn't real even so I go for slightly shorter.

[Michael Cole]

I am thinking that I could make the assembly table with the t track top and just put a 3/4" mdf piece with a miter track cut out on top for outfeed purposes. Anyone do this?

[Greg Hines, MD]

I am thinking that I could make the assembly table with the t track top and just put a 3/4" mdf piece with a miter track cut out on top for outfeed purposes. Anyone do this?

There is no reason that would not work. I would suggest making your MDF top larger, sometimes significantly so, than your assembly table, based on your materials. MDF will sag over a long distance, but if you make your auxiliary top 2-6" larger in both dimensions, you will get more coverage for very little extra material.

Doc