Bench Vise Mounting -- Recommendations?

[Alex Burkhardt]

Hi All,

I'm new to the forum, and woodworking, for that matter. I've been a builder of things for as long as I can remember, but it's only been recently that woodworking has taken root. I've been slowly collecting tools for maybe a year now, and I've got a very, very long way to go. I've build my current workbench in stages, and have finally gotten around to replacing a couple layers of MDF with something a bit more substantial. Pictured is one of two ~3" DF slabs that i'll be putting together. I'm intrigued by split top benches, so i'll be leaving a gap between this 15" slab, and the remaining narrower slab. I ripped down 2x10's, prepped my stock, and flattened (relatively) with my sole handplane -- a meager No.4 that was passed down to me by a grandfather. Because i'm working this way, and lack enough clamping force >24", i believe working in 2 slabs will be much easier for me to complete.

As the top is taking shape, i'm a bit conflicted on how to mount the vise that I dug up on craigslist -- an older 10" Craftsman quick-release behemoth:

1. I can simply drive lab bolts from the bottom, however the rear jaw will then protrude from the front of the bench, and i'm not sure how i feel about that. Additionally, the mounting locations are ~1-1/2" from the rear jaw, which puts the lag screw directly through a glue line in the top. This *should not* be an issue, but i'd be lying if said i didn't find it less than ideal.
2. I can recess the rear jaw into the front of the bench, and either build up the rear jaw from there, or add a full length "apron" so that the rear jaw is flush with the benchtop front.
3. The top edge of the vise jaws fall ~1" from the top of the 3" workbench when it's dry-fit. Is this problematic? or should I attempt to also rout out a recess on the underside of the top so that there is less of a gap between the top of the jaw and the workbench? something closer to 1/2" or less?

Looking forward to having a decent surface, and FINALLY having a vise.

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Thanks in advance,

alex

[Rich Enders]

I am not certain that your vise is the same as mine, but if I stand on my head and close one eye, it seems close. Regardless, I have attached a photo showing my mounting technique. I like the way it works and use the visible stationary metal as an anvil of sorts. If I had to do it again I would eliminate the dovetails on the perimeter boards of the bench as they do not remain flush through thick and thin.IMG_1531.JPG

[Prashun Patel]

Impressive work for a single plane!

Not sure if you're planning to put it on the right hand side, but I'd personally mount it on the left side (I like to plane right to left).

I would mount the vise flush with the front apron. If it were me, I'd laminate a notched front apron around the rear jaw. I'd also add a wood chop to the front jaw.

[Mark Stutz]

Paul Sellers does great work with the face proud of the front, but I couldn't work that way. I would recess the rear face to be flush (or add another laminate to the front of the bench) and excavate the bottom so that the top of the jaw is flush with the top of the bench.

[Greg Hines, MD]

If you are asking about setting it higher in the top, it is probably unnecessary. Fit it with a chop as in the photo that Rich has on his post, and then you can use your bench dogs as needed. Mine is set proud of the front edge for convenience and I have never had any trouble with it. If I build another, I would probably recess it, but for now, setting it proud of the front surface has not been a problem for me.

Doc

[Robert Engel]

I think recessing the inner face is not an absolute, but I like it because its very handy for edge planing.

On that vise you've got I would mortise in the underside to get the top of vise about 1" below benchtop.

Some recommend bolting all the way through the top. I just lagged bolted mine and so far so good.

[Alex Burkhardt]

Thanks, all.

I think i'll rout out the underside of the benchtop to bring the top of the jaws up closer to the work surface, then mortise and install an "apron" on the front to cover the rear jaw.

Is there any merit to attaching the additional laminate piece with screws versus glue? for the sake of being able to remove the vice without destroying the bench?

[Reinis Kanders]

I see no real advantage to having a flush rear jaw. If one likes to work in and out of the vise then it is easier to actually have a rear jaw be proud.
I would just mount it as is without all the extra work and see if you like it and since it is an old wise you will get to test it out. For me ease of installation is a big part of an appeal of these steel vises. Just add some wood jaws and you are ready to go.

[Rich Enders]

I am not sure what you are calling the additional laminate piece. If you mean the "apron" then you can either glue, or screw. Either way the vise just drops out if you remove its mounting screws, lags, or bolts.

Having the top of the jaws flush with the bench top is helpful for bench dog clamping in my set-up. It is hard to imagine how useful the vise would be if the top of the jaws were lower, or higher than the bench top. My end vise is set up at a similar height to this "cross" vise.

[Prashun Patel]

Rich, I think he means the apron.

Alex, Personally, I'd rather glue on the apron so there's no metal in the apron. Aesthetics aside, it just makes positioning dog holes near the edge a tad more complicated. Also, I do a lot of planing on the edge, so I prefer the insurance of a good glue line. That's all nitpickery, tho.

It's my suspicion that you'll likely build a whole second bench instead of retro-ing this one. I also think it wouldn't be too hard to rip the apron off should you need to excavate the vise.

[Alex Burkhardt]

I'll try to complete the circle on this one, and report back with what I ended up with:

I routed out a mortise for the rear vise jaw in another board, and laminated it to the front. Flushed everything up, added a quick front chop, and replaced the pipe handle with something warmer.

Wait a week or so, and i found the time to laminate the last section for the top. Just finished up a quick flattening, and secured the top by drilling for some 1" dowels in both the front legs. I'm pleased with how stable everything is, and I can still knock it down should i move in the near future.

Thanks, all. Happy woodworking

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