Wax recommendations

[Brian Kent]

Minwax paste wax has worked fine. My can is almost finished.
My favorite is pure carnuba through the Beall's buffing system or straight on to spindles like pens.

I am looking for a paste wax with carnuba. Gloss or semi-gloss is fine.

What have you used that you like?

[Brian Kent]

BriwaxL A solvent-based blend of beeswax and carnauba wax
Liberion Black Bison - A blend of paraffin, microcrystalline and carnauba mixed with mineral spirits
Renaissance - Microcrystaline wax

[Dennis Ford]

I use Renaissance wax on turnings, it does not pick up fingerprints.

[Michael Mason]

I have also switched to Renaissance wax. I bought a can of Briwax, and when I opened the can the fumes were so strong, I closed it and gave it away.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I use Ren wax - easy to apply and isn't affected by moisture!

[Steve Huffman]

Another vote for Ren wax here.

[David Walser]

I recommend a carnauba paste wax that is made with walnut oil as the solvent. This avoids the use of petroleum derived solvents that can be absorbed through your skin when applying the wax. A similar paste wax is made with the same microcrystal wax used in Ren wax, again without the chemical solvents. You can learn more about the products here: http://doctorswoodshop.com/Products.aspx No affiliation with the company other than as a satisfied customer.

[Hilel Salomon]

I've tried almost all the commercially prepared waxes, but I now use Alan Lacer's method of preparing my own. I melt beeswax (which I buy on Ebay) in A DOUBLE BOILER for safety, and mix it with cheap mineral oil which is primarily used as a laxative and which I buy at WM. I make a few different batches, with some having Carnauba scrapings, others having candle wax, still others having oils mixed in. These will make (depending on the portions and materials used) waxes varying from very, very soft, to reasonably hard. I don't really save any money, when time and effort is calculated in the equation, but I've gotten to the point where I use wax on raw wood much more frequently than I do oils, varnish and lacquer. These are great, but I'm too lazy to apply many coats.

[robert baccus]

In the old days (Louis 14th) the best finish was a 3/1 mixture of carnuba/beeswax thinned with pure gum turpentine melted in a double boiler. I have made several batches in the past but getting lazy in my old age. I now use pro. grade carnuba/compounds in liquid forms. They are available in various grits(all pretty fine) and available in auto paint supply stores. You get a final buff and wax job on the lathe.

[Marvin Hasenak]

I usually make my own, after a little research I found that microcrystalline wax can be bought in bar/brick form. To it you can add all kinds of combinations, bees wax, palm wax, carnauba or just some of the combinations possible. Solvents for paste waxes can be the citrus oil, it is better smelling than mineral spirits, or leave it out and make bar wax.

I recommend researching microcrystalline wax. It isn't rocket science and Google has a load of information on creating your own polishes and waxes. I had a pdf of notes on wax making but when that computer crashed and I lost it.

[John Keeton]

Folks generally use wax applications for two different purposes - to add luster to a hard, gloss finish or as an actual finish. If applied over a hard, gloss finish, it is pretty difficult to beat a simple microcrystalline wax. As an actual finish, there are a lot of great ideas posted that would make excellent salad bowl finishes.

[Peter Fabricius]

I learned to make my own oil / wax mixture many years ago by melting Walnut Oil, Beeswax and a very little Carnuba Wax in a small pot on the stove. 8oz oil, 3oz Beeswax and a little chunk of Carnuba wax.
This is heated to melting and stirred together. Let cool a little then pour into a short big mouth glass jar. It cools to a little harder than Vaseline and is easy to apply with a little Terry Towel 3 x 3" pad which I keep in the jar.
Realize that this just gives a matte finish but It feels nice and it lasts very nicely....
Peter F.

[Reed Gray]

Well, there is Butcher's Bowling Alley wax, which is Carnuba in a solvent base which I think is turpentine. More common out east. Kiwi neutral shoe was is carnuba, again in a turpentine base. I do like the Doctor's Woodshop products, with varying amounts of carnuba that you don't have to heat or use solvents to get it to flow. It his 'microaggregated' process that he uses. I haven't used much of the Ren Wax. I did use it on my pieces when I did flat work.

robo hippy

[Brian Kent]

Well, I tried the Ren Wax. It does not work for this exact application. I am turning Fern Pine / African Yellowwood wet. I need to seal it immediately or it starts major green mold in 24-48 hours. So I went back to Minwax until I can pick up one of the other suggestions.

[Marvin Hasenak]

Well, there is Butcher's Bowling Alley wax, which is Carnuba in a solvent base which I think is turpentine. More common out east. Kiwi neutral shoe was is carnuba, again in a turpentine base. I do like the Doctor's Woodshop products, with varying amounts of carnuba that you don't have to heat or use solvents to get it to flow. It his 'microaggregated' process that he uses. I haven't used much of the Ren Wax. I did use it on my pieces when I did flat work.

robo hippy

The Kiwi neutral shoe wax is what I recommend to my hunters to use on duck and predator calls they get from me.