Basement Framing Questions

[Jim Becker]

Alan, you use fine drywall screws and a screw gun...no pre-drilling. They shoot right in as the tips are designed to be self-drilling. Just the sound is different than when working with wood! Buuuuuuuurappp! Keep in mind that it's best to use a real screw-gun when working with drywall...the mechanism is designed to cam-out when the screw is set at the proper depth and they also hold the fastener securely.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks Jim, I was just reading that a thermal problem exists with metal studs. A google article I read said that an R30 wall is actually a R12 with metal studs because of the conductivity of the metal. There are ways around this using insulation boards on the cold side I think. Other than that metal studs sounds like a good alternative.

[Jim Becker]

Alan, I doubt the thermal transfer is going to be a major issue in a basement situation...these are not outside walls and the temp difference is going to be considerably less. My basement in the previous residence stayed toasty in the winter and cool in the summer with only R13...

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Makes sense Jim. I'm guessing they're talking about exterior walls subjected to greater temperature swings.

[Jim Becker]

Makes sense Jim. I'm guessing they're talking about exterior walls subjected to greater temperature swings.

Yup. Even wood studs have a certain amount of thermal transfer and metal has a lot more. This is one of the strikes against aluminum (or steel) windows! It's also why I'm hoping to explore using SIPs when we build the addition as an alternative to traditional framing-- but with studs and spray-in closed cell foam insulation as the second choice. (The latter is more likely in this area...)