A new "I'm about to buy my first real table saw" thread

[Mike Henderson]

Not ready to make the cut yet. After all that, I make sure am I making the cut the safest way? Number one here is using the fence when I should be using a panel sled or xcut sled. Example a piece of plywood is 12x24 and I need 10x24. Very tempting to set the fence for 10" and run it through even with a splitter I've increased the danger of a cut that should be made on a xcut sled.

I can't even see how I would do that cut with a crosscut sled. It looks like a rip cut to me, just take 2" off for a length of 24".

Mike

[Mike Cutler]

Not ready to make the cut yet. After all that, I make sure am I making the cut the safest way? Number one here is using the fence when I should be using a panel sled or xcut sled. Example a piece of plywood is 12x24 and I need 10x24. Very tempting to set the fence for 10" and run it through even with a splitter I've increased the danger of a cut that should be made on a xcut
.

Robert

Is this expressed correctly?
If I were to dimension a 12"x 24" piece of material to 10"x 24", the fence would be my first choice.
Maybe I'm just not understanding something.

[Mike Dowell]

Mike,

I won't beat you up anymore than you have re:fear, but I suggest that's just lack of confidence and/or experience. This is why you're amazed at your father. An underpowered machine is more dangerous, IMO. Your "fear" could be related to that.

I submit there is a difference between fear and respect. Maybe that's what you mean. Every time I push the switch on my TS, my brain immediately registers the fact that this machine is very powerful, and I can get hurt. I am not scared of it I'm scared or myself!

The most important piece of advice, and this applies to every machine, is, take the time to examine your stock before you cut it. Sight down those boards. Check for loose knots. Never EVER try to straighten a bowed board against the fence that will keep you out of trouble. If the cut isn't going right, shut the machine off don't try to push it through.

Yeah, I need to work on my confidence. I completely agree. Also, I'm not too proud to admit that I lack experience. My father-in-law has been using a table saw longer than I have been alive(36yrs).

[Duncan Foster]

I'm selling my 20 year old unisaw and going with a saw stop. Two reasons. Incredibly bad dust collection no matter how many mods I've made and safety. I'll stay away from all the opinions on govt, operator error etc and just say I'd like the safest tool (saw, router etc) that I can. Make no mistake unisaw is a great saw but if I can upgrade ( no different from any other product that's evolved over 25 years ) I would.

[Dwain Alverson]

I would like to offer one thought, I understand 10" saw are the standard. I have an older 12" and appreciate the extra capacity, recently I changed the motor from a 3hp to a 5 and found it a great help when cutting larger than 2" lumber. I've tried the thin kerf blades over the years and was never pleased with the results. For me the answer seems to be fstool full kerf blades and a 5hp motor. The down side of this combo is it is not portable.

[Roger Feeley]

I'm firmly in the Sawstop camp but I fully agree that the best safety device in your shop is between your ears. Always visualize your cut before you make it and always thing about what you want to happen when you get a bind or kickback. Always be mindful of your body position and where your hands would go if your feet slipped. Always position your body so your feet won't slip. When bad things happen (and they will) be of the mindset to get out of the way and don't try to save the workpiece. Never use any tool when you are tired or in a hurry.

I taught shop and worked in wood for 30 years before I got a Sawstop and I don't regret the purchase. That said, I had all my fingers and eyes before I got it.

[Mike Dowell]

These are great tips Roger. I bought my saw, and I've used it many times now. It is absolutely amazing. It's a..... Powermatic PM2000. I know I'll catch hell for it, but once I visualized the sawstop falsely triggering the brake, I just couldn't look past that. I must say that the PM2000 is a remarkable saw. To be fair, I coming from a Dewalt $300 jobsite saw, but still. I'll take pictures of the switch I mounted next to the power switch. It turns on the dust collector and is might convenient. I must say, my harbor freight dust collector is a really lousy machine. I think this saw needs about 10x the suction this unit provides.