I didn't see anything about the single beveled face being flat or slightly curved.
Mine was purchased at an estate sale for $18. It comes in handy for many uses.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...tate-Sale-Find
There was a second one there and looking back, it would have been good to have bought both to have a lefty and a righty.
Mine may be a bit heavier than the LV hatchets. It hasn't been put on a scale.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
The axe or hatchet you use depends on what you want to do with it. May carvers (bowls and spoons) use double bevel hatchets with a radius on the bevel edge. Using a hatchet to flatten wood you would want an single bevel with a straight edge. I can's say anything about the lee valley hatchery since I have never handled it but the squared handle looks uncomfortable to hold.
I have a pair of hewing hatchets, and do use them, but they are normal sized ones probably 3 or 3-1/2 pounds each. It's nice to have one of each with the bevels on opposite sides. Mine mainly get used for knots. It's a lot easier with a hatchet than a full sized hewing axe to whittle down knots, if the hewing axe doesn't get one on the first swing. I looked at those when someone posted about them a while back, but if I'm remembering correctly they're a pound and a half each. I wouldn't have any use for hatchets that size. I'll see if I can find a picture of mine and post the link.................
edited to add link to the picture: http://historic-house-restoration.co...s/CIMG0372.JPG They're laying on the partially hewed beam.
Last edited by Tom M King; 08-11-2015 at 3:43 PM.
Relevant:
https://axework.wordpress.com/
A plumb hatchet makes a good woodworking shop hatchet. I have one. Originally old Mr. Sims recommended it. (His tool box was on Roy's shop.)
Paul, you may have seen the video bellow on YouTube? Follansbee is frequently mentioned in regard to hewing axes/hatchets. The video discusses and demos several kinds and talks about the advantages of each for actually hewing logs. The other guy in the US that knows a good deal about axes/hatchets is Drew Langsner at Country Workshops. He originally apprenticed under Willy Lunquist as a Cooper. He sells a selection of Axes that can be used for that kind of work but he imports them from custom makers so they are a little pricey. All the pictures of the LV axe are from the same side. At least on the pictured side there is a major drop from a basically rectangular head to a V blade, which I don't think you would want in a hewing axe, although the corner can be ground off. Could be the back side is flat across the whole head, but they do not show the other side, weird because that is what you need to see on such an axe. Most hewing axes even have the bevel where it is sharpened ground down to a gradual curve. If you watch the Follansbee video you will also hear him say you don't have to have a flat side or flat grind to hew with an axe. There are a few posters who have said they hew with an axe/hatchet with steep bevels on both edges. However, most of the carving/woodworking axes sold by guys like Drew have close to a flat grind on both sides of the head. The ones designed specifically for hewing will continue with the "flatish" grind all the way to the edge of the cutting surface.
I have been watching small axes for hewing & carving on ebay for several weeks. The pricey ones sold for about what LV wants for the tool you mention $30-$65. I am watching about four axe heads on my ebay account from 20-$30. I think you might get as good or better deal for a vintage tool on ebay. Might have to replace the handle, but at least for me that is a fun drawknife/spokeshave project.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyT87p16m1g
Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 08-11-2015 at 11:10 PM.
I just looked at that picture. One of them is not one of the hewing hatchets. The one in the background has nail pulling claws, and is beveled on both sides of the cutting edge-good for some cuts where you need to go into the wood more than just leveling a face. There's another Plumb laying around somewhere there with the bevel on the other side from the one near. I know it's not important, but I realized I had said something about the ones in that picture that wasn't correct.
Historically, stainless steel hasn't been the greatest steel for holding a sharp edge. LV's pretty good about its steel, so they may have found an alloy that will, indeed, get and hold an edge. You might ask about that before buying.
I would think you could get along better with a shave horse and drawknife than lightweight hatchets.
I think I would agree with Tom King. I think you would get more use out of a drawknife and a shave horse. For making chairs.
I have 3 hatchets for carving. The lighter one I use the most is a Hans Karlsson. The heavy one is a Gransfors Bruks carving axe. I also use a Gransfors Bruks wildlife hatchet. I mainly carve bowls and spoons, but the principals are the same. Looking at the ones you posted, they wouldn't serve me well in what I do. I prefer a curved face. I can hew a flat surface with any of the hatchets I have. If you want to learn to use an axe to hew, I would look for something a little heavier. look for something closer to 3lbs. I use the lighter axes mostly for spoons, the heavier one mostly for bowls. I hollow the bowls with an adze, and the spoons with a spoon knife. I also use a drawknife quite a bit. All of which is kind of a long winded explanation of why I agree with Tom.
If all you really want to do is learn to hew a board flat, any good hatchet will work. As long as it is sharp. It sometimes helps to flatten the one bevel when you sharpen the axe. The left side, if you are right handed.
The best person to talk to about using an axe for green woodworking is Drew Langsner at Country Workshops, he has written a couple books about green woodworking and chair making. He has helped me a lot.
http://countryworkshops.org/index.html
Hope this helps, good luck and have fun learning to use an axe.
Ive read Drews book on chairmaking cover to cover several times. I am already quite proficient with a drawknife, and am just looking for a way to hew off wood quickly for things like chair legs and the like.
i bought a True Temper carpenters hatchet from a fellow, and it is very useful, even with the claw. I am just looking for something that will help with hewing and flattening. I am considering the swedish carving axe from grunsfors, or am looking for a used single bevel broad hatchet. I am just having trouble finding one in decent shape ftom a vendor that takes payment without involving a credit card.
Paul
Estate sales, yard sales and all of such ilk tend to be very happy with cash.I am just having trouble finding one in decent shape ftom a vendor that takes payment without involving a credit card.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)