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Thread: craftsman 7 inch block plane is it useable?

  1. #1
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    craftsman 7 inch block plane is it useable?

    I was in sears today and saw there 7 inch block plane looks interesting, I can buy it for basically free, I have sears shopyourway.com points...

    For a beginner would this be useable? I would like to use it on end grain cutting boards.
    http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-7...p-00937176000P

  2. #2
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    Having not handled the plane in the link I can not make any judgement on the manufacture's quality for this plane.

    "Basically free" is worth a chance.

    I can comment on the difficulty of using a small plane on large areas of end grain.

    Also this plane appears to be a high angle block plane. For end grain a low angle plane may be preferable.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
    I was going to say yea sure, it is probably useful, and you can probably get it to work fine as a block plane... I wouldn't want to use it on end grain cutting boards however. Maybe some more experience hand plane users can comment... but a block plane is hard to use as a smoother on a large surface. Also, most people prefer low angle planes for end grain.

  4. #4
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    I've done plenty of end grain work with a standard-angle block plane with an adjustable mouth as well as bench planes. This plane is probably "OK" as a block plane to keep around the shop, but without an adjustable mouth, it is fairly limited in what you can do with it. For large end grain areas, I use a #3 or #4-sized smooth plane with a sharp blade and the chip breaker just a hair from the blade's edge - much less fatiguing to use both hands on something easy to hold.

    Oh, and I love the description, written by some optimistic power tool guy; basically if you don't have a power planer or joiner, you can use the teeny block plane to smooth and square your boards...nice
    Last edited by Karl Andersson; 08-14-2015 at 7:19 AM. Reason: added comment

  5. #5
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    If you're getting it for "basically free" then have at it! If you're paying $27.00 for it, I would be hesitant, maybe looking through some flea markets or antique malls for a vintage Stanley or Sargent. The classified section may also yield something.
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

  6. #6
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    Looks to be a "modern" version of a Stanley #220. The #220s aren't too bad a block plane. Stanley added a lateral lever sort of thing. That way, you don't have to tap the side of the iron to adjust the laterals...

    Pick it up, tune it up, sharpen the iron, test it out.

  7. #7
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    I might have a trade for an older one coming through, I'll see how that works first. before I buy this one.

  8. #8
    That's the same one I bought at ace hardware. Got a pmv 11 replacement blade for it, cut the ends off to make it a little shorter and lighter and it works as well as a high dollar plane. Mine is ground into a very slight radius,(40') on the bottom and is dedicated to shaping violin and cello fingerboards. Works like a champ.

  9. #9
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    David, Welcome to the Creek.

    How do you lay out a 40' radius?

    Now that I read this again, is that on the base of the plane, the blade or both?

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  10. #10
    I've been lurking for a while. I got drawn to the forum following the great bevel up vs. cap Iron debate. I feel indebted to those who took the time to sort it out w/ research. Tear out on difficult woods is a big deal in lutherie.
    I cheat with the 40' radius. Most guitar builders have a " radius dish" that is used to shape guitar sides as well as glue top and back braces on. " flat topped " instruments actually have a slight arch built into them to make them stiffer and less vulnerable to changes in humidity. I used my dish, (a section of a 40' sphere made on a CNC machine), to grind the bottom of my plane. The radius makes it easier to plane in the small amount of concavity required into violin fingerboards. I don't worry about the radius across the sole. the iron is just ground flat. I haven't figured out the exact amount of convexity in a 2" section of a 40' radius but it's not significant. Especially when planning a fingerboard that's arched to a convex 42mm radius across it.

  11. #11
    I dunno. Just the fact that they are advertising it as a "plane block" would scare me away.

  12. #12
    I honestly would not buy it. Save the sears credit and buy screwdrivers or something. Old stanley 65 can be found pretty easily for around that price on the bay. If you do purchase it, expect some serious time with a slab of granite and sandpaper to get it tuned up.

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