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Thread: Tiger Myrtle Backsaw Build.

  1. #1
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    Tiger Myrtle Backsaw Build.




    After profiling both sides of the handle and inner cheek.

    Mortise fit for the hardback.

    14" saw plate assemby after being fitted to the handle.

    Shaping to the saw handle completed.

    Saw handle after 220 grit sanding; followed by coating of garnet shellac. 400 grit sanding still required.

    Stewie;
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 08-14-2015 at 8:16 AM.

  2. #2
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    Maybe my favorite one to date. Beautiful wood!

  3. #3
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    I like the treatment of the decorative notches just outside the saw back. And,the properly rounded "pips" rather than sharp ones. Very neat and proper work,Stewie.

    On my personal saws,I ground 45 degree facets on the top and bottom of the brass back. It gives the back a lighter,more graceful look. I also chamfered the front edge of my back on the closed handle saw. I did not think to do it on the open handle one.But I could go back.

    On the saws we made for the museum,we could not do this as this feature is 19th. C..
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    Last edited by george wilson; 08-14-2015 at 8:49 AM.

  4. #4
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    Hi George. Profiling to the hardack will start shortly. I made a change to the usual way I apply the decorative areas close to the spine mortise. Very pleased with the new look.

    regards Stewie;

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Stutz View Post
    Maybe my favorite one to date. Beautiful wood!
    Thanks Mark. TM is a wondeful looking timber. Getting more difficult to come by knowadays. Expensive to buy.

    regards Stewie;

  6. #6
    The Seaton chest Kenyon saws also had 45 degree chamfers on the back. So that is solidly in the 18th century!

  7. #7
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    They did on the bottom edge,but the tops were round,just as bent. Mine are beveled on both top and bottom,and I haven't seen any 18th. C. saws that went that far (Though I certainly haven't seen every 18th. C. saw extant!)

  8. #8
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    Hi George. I hand file my brass back bevels. I do like the look of your brass backs with the bottom edge bevel included but its just too much extra work for me, so I wont be including it.

    regards Stewie;

  9. #9
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    Actually,I didn't file the bevels. They were freehand ground on the Square Wheel grinder. That was a lot faster,if you can grind accurately. It would be trouble to hold the backs for filing the tops beveled,without closing up the groove for the saw blade. And,since my backs were folded and deep,the groove was even more delicate to maintain.
    Last edited by george wilson; 08-14-2015 at 10:28 AM.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    They did on the bottom edge,but the tops were round,just as bent. Mine are beveled on both top and bottom,and I haven't seen any 18th. C. saws that went that far (Though I certainly haven't seen every 18th. C. saw extant!)
    Indeed, my bad. I really thought they were chamfered along the top too, but looking closer at the pictures and the drawings, I see that they are only chamfered along the bottom and the front edge.

    Stewie, this one is shaping up marvelously again.

    BTW, I have chamfered the bottom side of my sawbacks freehand on a bandgrinder, which worked surprisingly easy and quick.
    Last edited by Kees Heiden; 08-14-2015 at 1:34 PM.

  11. #11
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    As you likely know,Kees,the Square Wheel grinder is a powerful type of band grinder,2" x 72" belt.

  12. #12
    Wow...just wow!

  13. #13
    Beautiful Stewie. Just beautiful. Where you going to stamp the brass back?

    Man you're prolific! Seems like you crank out another beautiful saw at least once/week. I thought you were retired and didn't WANT a new job!

  14. #14
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    Beautiful! Wow, my favorite so far.
    Shawn

    "no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."

    "I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"

  15. #15
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    I really like your work. It is just beautiful and elegant.

    Chuck

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