Does anyone own the Veritas Inlay Tool? Thoughts?

[Mike King]

wrong image -- here you go..._DSC8996.jpg

[Mike Allen1010]

I have the LV string inlay tools and I been very pleased with them for both curved and straight-line grooves parallel to edges.

FWIW, I recommend getting the tiny chisel and manual (handheld) stringing cutter in the same width as the blade you're using the inlay tools. Using the inlay tool to lightly score either curved grooves working off a compass point or straight grooves works well. In addition, hogging out the bottom of the straight grooves is pretty straightforward.

For the curves grooves my biggest challenges making sure the compass point stays in the original spot. Once the grooves are score, working backward to hog out the waste, for me requires more pressure and that's when the compass point is most likely to shift. For this reason it really helps to plan the sequence of cutting your grooves so that when cutting curved grooves, you can bury the compass point in a section of the work piece that will later be covered with other parts of the inlay.

Regardless of whether it's a straight or curved groove, having the handheld "chisel point" and curved tool always come in handy because there are always parts of the groove that didn't get to a consistent depth with the inlay tool and the handheld tools make it a lot either to clean up. Typically I use the chisel point tool as sort of a "scraper", pulling it down the groove to get consistent depth and smooth edges.

Sharpening the V-shaped cutting edges of the blades for the inlay tools way can be a challenge because they're so small. I found the super narrow, Japanese "feather edge" Files (at least I think that's what they're called?) used to sharpen Japanese saws to work great for this application – they have a super narrow profile that fits the groove nicely.

Lastly, the absolute hardest part of string inlay for me is getting the stringing to the same width as the groove; too wide and you increase the risk the stringing wall fully seated in the bottom of the groove, which means strength final surfacing you might end up with a gap where all the strings have been has been removed. Too narrow and you can end up with final result that doesn't have a uniform with.

That said, the end inlay tool that's made the biggest difference for me is the LV "Inlay StringingThicknesser". It's kind of a cabinet scraper set up that lets you gradually shave your stringing down to the correct thichness to precisely fit the width of the groove. I also recommend making a test groove on waste stock as a way to check that your stringing fits well – nothing worse than applying glue to the groove in your work piece and then finding out the stringing doesn't fit! You can guess why I know that.

I also have the LV Dremel plunge router kit (that's probably not what it's really called). If you're doing a lot of straight, parallel edge stringing; like multiple drawers for a chest etc., it's a faster way to cut the grooves than the manual stringing tools. LV also offers super tiny Dremel bits that correspond to the width of the cutters for their inlay tool.

If you're interested in expanding your inlay work beyond stringing, to do larger designs like a compass rose etc., the Dremel/plunge router is an essential tool for excavating recesses as close as possible to the layout lines.

I'm no expert, YMMV.

All the best, Mike

[Gary Muto]

I have the LV Inlay tools. I think they are all well made and comfortable to use. As I recall the price was reasonable if oyu use the Lie Nielsen set as a baseline. I felt that LV was giving me more bang for the buck but I'm sure both are really good choices.

[andy bessette]

Just received the LV router plane, fence, full Imperial set of blades from 1/16"-1/2", plus the inlay tool for $200. Seller used it once, so it is in virtually new condition. Pretty impressed with the quality and workmanship, like other LV tools I have.