Festool DIY build?

[Mike Holbrook]

I have the older Festool MFT. I am planing an: out feed MFT table/workbench/work table. I have an Adjust A Bench bench base with casters, so I can make a mobile, height adjustable work surface. I am thinking about putting a MFT table top in the top of my new table. Amazon offers a 45x28" top for around $128. I am thinking a 6-7 foot x 28 -30" top will work fine as I have the around 46" long surface on my old MFT.

I'm not sure it will be worth the trouble to tool up for making a surface with 20mm holes to try and match the accuracy of the Festool tops? I also read somewhere that there are two different hole sizes for these tables, one being a little more than 20mm? I thought I would check here and see if anyone knows of a more cost effective solution to incorporate Festool type holes into my new work surface. I have Festool clamps so I would like to continue with the Festool system. Maybe someone other than Festool makes tops at a more attractive price, or maybe there is a way to route/drill holes in my surface with the same accuracy as Festool enjoys without breaking the bank?

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have the older Festool MFT. I am planing an: out feed MFT table/workbench/work table. I have an Adjust A Bench bench base with casters, so I can make a mobile, height adjustable work surface. I am thinking about putting a MFT table top in the top of my new table. Amazon offers a 45x28" top for around $128. I am thinking a 6-7 foot x 28 -30" top will work fine as I have the around 46" long surface on my old MFT.

I'm not sure it will be worth the trouble to tool up for making a surface with 20mm holes to try and match the accuracy of the Festool tops? I also read somewhere that there are two different hole sizes for these tables, one being a little more than 20mm? I thought I would check here and see if anyone knows of a more cost effective solution to incorporate Festool type holes into my new work surface. I have Festool clamps so I would like to continue with the Festool system. Maybe someone other than Festool makes tops at a more attractive price, or maybe there is a way to route/drill holes in my surface with the same accuracy as Festool enjoys without breaking the bank?

Look for "AskWoodman" on Youtube. He had a huge series of videos on drilling out holes for a workbench that he uses the Festool clamping elements with.

Doc

[Bob Falk]

You might check this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...able-workbench

[Mike Holbrook]

Huge indeed Greg. I did not find it first time through but still looking.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Huge indeed Greg. I did not find it first time through but still looking.

The first in his series of building his worktable is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eG0_pb_tXus

[Victor Robinson]

I have the older Festool MFT. I am planing an: out feed MFT table/workbench/work table. I have an Adjust A Bench bench base with casters, so I can make a mobile, height adjustable work surface. I am thinking about putting a MFT table top in the top of my new table. Amazon offers a 45x28" top for around $128. I am thinking a 6-7 foot x 28 -30" top will work fine as I have the around 46" long surface on my old MFT.

I'm not sure it will be worth the trouble to tool up for making a surface with 20mm holes to try and match the accuracy of the Festool tops? I also read somewhere that there are two different hole sizes for these tables, one being a little more than 20mm? I thought I would check here and see if anyone knows of a more cost effective solution to incorporate Festool type holes into my new work surface. I have Festool clamps so I would like to continue with the Festool system. Maybe someone other than Festool makes tops at a more attractive price, or maybe there is a way to route/drill holes in my surface with the same accuracy as Festool enjoys without breaking the bank?

Yes, the older MFTs (MFT1080) have a larger hole size at 20.2mm or something like that. The MFT/3 (current) has a hole size of exactly 20mm.

The approach and degree to which you need to tool up depends on the accuracy you want, e.g. if you just need a grid of 20mm dogholes vs. using the grid for square cuts. A lot of folks seem to spend time/effort/money on making their worktables an accurate grid but then don't actually end up using that accuracy.

The minimum degree of tooling up would be a 20mm router bit. Festool's is best but pricey. CMT and Bosch also have versions that are half the price and possibly not as clean-cutting depending on who you ask. As for accuracy, you can use a LR32 system if you have a Festool router, but getting it just for this purpose may not justify the cost. Pegboard plus a template (e.g. Woodrave) can work well but unlikely to give you as accurate a result as other methods.

Of course, the most accurate way is a buddy with a CNC.

[Jim Dwight]

I got one of these router base plates:

http://www.woodrave.com/

I haven't had time yet but my plan is to get some pegboard, hopefully 1/4 thick, and a 20mm bit (probably a Bosch, possibly a Freud) and some good plywood (possibly Baltic birch) and make some workbench tops. I do not expect that I will get the same accuracy out of this that a CNC machined top would have but I think it will be good enough. I don't plan to do crosscuts (or other angles) based upon these holes. I plan to add Ron Paulk's crosscut setup that indexes off the end of the top. So I don't need extreme accuracy on hole position. If it turns out to be good enough, I might reconsider using dogs in the holes for an occasional cross cut. But if they are off slightly, it won't hurt their use for clamping and other less critical purposes. We'll see (when the other stuff stops intruding on my shop time).

[George Werner]

I would recommend finding a CNC shop in your area. I had a local CNC operator make me a 42" x 72" top with the Festool grid for about $110 and that included the cost of the MDF. He also sized the holes perfectly to my Parf Dogs. The grid is perfectly square and I couldn't be happier.

IMG_0942.jpg

[Greg Hines, MD]

The first in his series of building his worktable is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eG0_pb_tXus

Here is the link for the one where he starts laying out and drilling his holes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lo6O...7FE39&index=21

[Michael Stein]

Here is the link for the one where he starts laying out and drilling his holes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lo6O...7FE39&index=21

Gosh. Dogs are awesome creatures.

[Eric Schmid]

George, that's a fine looking table. What do you use the slots on the perimeter for?

[George Werner]

George, that's a fine looking table. What do you use the slots on the perimeter for?

The slots are for using my Irwin quick grip clamps.

[Mike Holbrook]

I wanted to get on with making the table and not get stuck trying to save a little money on the work surface. I just ordered a replacement 1080 top from Amazon, suppose to be here tomorrow. Now I am working on a way to stiffen the top so It can withstand being lifted to reposition the height without obscuring the holes. I am assuming that the Festool Clamping elements, screw clamps etc. that I bought with my 1080 will work with the replacement top?

I am wondering if the current Festool clamps, Qwas Dogs, Parf Dogs...will work with the 1080 table dog holes? One might think that the slightly larger 1080 holes would pass the newer size, but would accuracy be significantly degraded?

Yes, nice table George, next time....

[Victor Robinson]

I wanted to get on with making the table and not get stuck trying to save a little money on the work surface. I just ordered a replacement 1080 top from Amazon, suppose to be here tomorrow. Now I am working on a way to stiffen the top so It can withstand being lifted to reposition the height without obscuring the holes. I am assuming that the Festool Clamping elements, screw clamps etc. that I bought with my 1080 will work with the replacement top?

I am wondering if the current Festool clamps, Qwas Dogs, Parf Dogs...will work with the 1080 table dog holes? One might think that the slightly larger 1080 holes would pass the newer size, but would accuracy be significantly degraded?

Yes, nice table George, next time....

The Parf dogs tend to be almost a little loose on the new MFT/3, so I imagine there will be more play on the 1080 (if the hole sizes are still larger than 20mm).
Basically if you slip a dog in the hole and there's play, yes, that will degrade the accuracy. How much? Probably not enough to really be an issue unless you are doing a lot of repetitive squaring cuts. One way to snug up loose dog holes is to finish the top (which you may have planned to do anyways?). Finishing the insides of the holes with poly or shellac (or just letting the finish drip down if you're lazy like me) will swell them a bit and tighten the fit of accessories.

[Mike Holbrook]

Good idea Victor, I may soak it in WATCO when it finally gets here, which should help prevent staining too. They held the package waiting for me to authorize a time for them to deliver...suppose to get it tomorrow. I will check the fit on the other Festool clamping devices first. I was just thinking about ordering Parf dogs with the free shipping.