Need some advice on mechanics of building this table

[Chris Merriam]

For my next project, my son wants a dining table, and of course he picks a fancy one from Restoration Hardware:
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Looking for some advice on two points:

1. How to attach top to base? I'm thinking I can run plenty of screws down the center-line stretcher, but what about at the ends? Those legs are very thick and the diagonal supports take up all the free space.

2. How to make this knock-down so it can be moved in to an apartment. Dimensions right now are 6 feet long and about 40 inches wide, and usual height of 33 inches or so. I can't think of any way to make the base as a series of components, I think they all need to glued/tenoned together. I guess I can trust him to screw/unscrew the top from the base, but even that makes me a little nervous.

Any thoughts?

[Mel Fulks]

I would Google photos of refectory tables. Better and more practical examples.

[Jarad Medbery]

I would suggest to incorporate the use of wedges so you can take the beast apart to transport.

[Gene Davis]

First of all, a dining table is 29 to 30 inches high, a size that a pair of capable movers can get into just about any apartment anywhere. R.H. gives its specs and it is 30.

Go to a Restoration Hardware showroom and have a look at the underside. I'm sure you will get some clues as to what they did to affix the top to the base. I'll bet it is just four screws.

[Chris Merriam]

Thanks guys. The nearest Restoration store is about 2.5 hours away, a bit to far for a casual drive. I did google refectory tables and found a few plans that used some joinery I might be able to take advantage of. One thing I'm thinking of is switching to a straight stretcher vs. the two diagonal ones, then I could use a wedged through tenon to allow for easy disassembly. Also saw where someone used un-glued bridal joints to attach rails/aprons to the side assemblies.

[Tom Scott]

I had a request for the same table to be used outside on the patio. I used a cleat screwed to the inside of each end support, and then screwed through those into the top.

[Chris Merriam]

Nice job Tom! Using a cleat like that is a great idea.

What did you do about the base? Is it one solid unit?

[Malcolm McLeod]

Chris,
Most apartment front doors will be a minimum 3-0 x 6-8. So, even if door only opens to 90deg, you'll still have 33-34in of clear pass-thru space. Assume, the top is minimum of 1", the base would be no more than 32" (at your 33"H estimate).


If you make the top removable and the base in 1-pc, either should easily fit thru a doorway. And you can also add a 'holster' on bottom of table top for a hand saw....just for any final move-in adjustments.

[Lee Schierer]

Looking at photo number 1 you can clearly see a hole in the end of the cross piece on top of the legs, I believe there are probably four of them holding the top to the base.

[Tom Scott]

Nice job Tom! Using a cleat like that is a great idea.

What did you do about the base? Is it one solid unit?

The base is one solid unit. Since it is outside the top is not solid.
I did do another larger (9') indoor dining table. As others have said, with the top removable it's not generally an issue getting in the house.