Suggestions to make jigs out of?

[Keith Winter]

I'm going to make some new engraving jigs for my speedy 400, they will be semi-permanent so I need them to lay flat and not bow (wood), or break super easily if pulled in and out between engraving and cutting.

Acrylic jigs I've made in the past lasted relatively well, but eventually they all chip and break. So that is a viable option, or I was also thinking masonite might be good.

A couple questions:
1) On acrylic would you recommend cast or extruded?
2) What other materials would you consider for making long lasting removable jigs out of?

[Rich Harman]

Cast for sure. Extruded is brittle. I think MDF is great for jigs. It is stable, easy to cut, fairly durable and cheap.

[Glen Monaghan]

Most of my long-term jigs are made from 6 ply (1/4") baltic birch, some are 3 ply (1/8"). I haven't had any bowing issues with them.

[Bruce Volden]

To me "jigs" are entirely dependent on what you plan to engrave.
I have a dedicated "jig" for pens. (3/4" plywood with the grooves cut by table saw.)
I have a dedicated "jig" for the MANY knives I do.
I have a dedicated "jig" for nameplates...............
Heck, I even have a dedicated "jig" for swords!

I like plywood, not the cheap stuff 'tho.

Bruce

[Gary Hair]

It really depends on what you are trying to hold. I have fixtures made of acrylic, aluminum, mdf, legos, clay, cardboard, etc., quite a few combinations of various materials. The most common fixture I use is either acrylic or Rowmark on mdf - Rowmark is a little softer than acrylic and is forgiving if some of the parts are slightly out of tolerance or has sharper corners that tend to catch on the acrylic.
You need to be flexible with your material choices to match the task.

[David Somers]

A thought to add to Gary and Bruce's posts. Consider making your jigs out of a temporary, low cost material to see how they work. When you have them dialed in make them out of something more durable and suitable for the job. And keep in mind you have the file to cut them from again anytime you want so remaking a jig is not a big deal.

Dave

[Keith Winter]

Thanks for all the replies on jigs, I've done masonite, acrylic, and aluminum before all with various degrees of success. The alumninum has lasted the test of time but it was expensive. The masonite did well, and the acyrlic did well (not sure if it was cast or extruded?) but it had a tendency to crack in the middle as the jig we're making lays flat on the bed and is very long and almost as big as the engraving bed with various holes cut out of it to hold different items. I'd like it to be about 1/2" thick.

On the acrylic if we do that again what is the conscientious avoid extruded and use cast acrylic as Rich said? Has anyone bought from estreetplastics or delvie's plastics, other suggestions on where to buy?
http://www.estreetplastics.com/Clear...Thick_s/43.htm

On the plywood that is honestly something I hadn't considered. I'd like to keep it 1/2" thick but if I bumped it up to 3/4" it might be more stable and less prone to warping. Will the plywood warp over time if I cut a bunch of holes in it increasing the areas exposed to the air and moisture?

I've seen rowmark, but never worked with rowmark, how expensive is it vs acrylic and does it hold up over time taking it in and out of the engraving bed every day, or is it brittle?

Thanks for your suggestions, keep them coming!

[Doug Griffith]

When I make jigs I want to last for many years, I use acetal - trade name Delrin. Pretty much bullet proof.

[Keith Winter]

Thanks for this Doug! I'll check out this Acetal/Delrin, looks stronger than acrylic and a quick google search indicates it cuts well on a co2 laser, is that your experience?

When I make jigs I want to last for many years, I use acetal - trade name Delrin. Pretty much bullet proof.

[Doug Griffith]

Thanks for this Doug! I'll check out this Acetal/Delrin, looks stronger than acrylic and a quick google search indicates it cuts well on a co2 laser, is that your experience?

It cuts great in my opinion. It's not a cosmetic material but is more or less bullet proof compared to acrylic. It's very much like teflon.

[Keith Colson]

If you want to laser cut a jig that won't crack I use ABS. It is a bit smelly but you don't make jigs every day. ABS is about a 1/10th of the price of acetal. I am not knocking acetal it is really nice plastic but it is expensive. I mix ABS and acrylic. I only use ABS for the parts that crack easily.

Cheers
Keith

[Keith Winter]

Thanks Keith I ordered a sample of Acetal I'll try to find some abs locally to compare as well!

[Steve Clarkson]

Be careful.......the off gas of delrin/acetal is formaldehyde.

[Jiten Patel]

I use Veralite Clear PET sheets. It stays flat not matter how you store it, cuts well and is cheap as chips too.

[Ruben Salcedo]

Here is one more option.

Scooter Board, this material is a high density board but better than a regular high density mdf, this is moisture resistant and very durable and also laser friendly, it's original use was for outdoor signs like real state signs decorated with screen printing and vinyl etc, but the way I find out about it many years ago was in the ARA show in Vegas, they where marketing it as a laser friendly, it does cut and engraved very well, both faces are white, now looking at their website it looks like they are focusing in a new UV printing marketing, you can find it in many sign supply houses you can see it HERE as one of them.